Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

Private_collector · #1 04-03-12, 07:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keith Webb

The FD bit usually means Ford.
Post a pic and we'll identify them. Often the looms have a metal tag with a proper part number stamped onto it.

headlight wiring.jpg dash switches.jpg
These are the photos I have just been sent.
Part Number on wiring is not easy for me to see.
Are these switches original and/or valuable??

T

Keith Webb · #2 04-03-12, 07:53

The circled ones are definitely Ford so you should keep them! Hard to tell with the wrapped loom though.

Private_collector · #3 06-03-12, 10:31

Thanks for the switch info Keith,

Also for your PM about the h/brake boot. I will still go in for a shift boot though.

Re. the switches I have asked about, they are not mine. The enquiry is for someone else who was wondering what they were. I have an interest in the headlight wiring and may buy it if suitable.

Some time ago, I was negotiating to buy a cache of original Blitz dash switches. The ball topped toggles, and including several fuel switches. That did not come off as the potential seller wants to 'think about it' for a while. I take it thats code for 'see how much I can wring out of someone & keep you as a backup plan'. Still, good luck. My plan 'B' for switches was for ones with correct positions, without the ball top. These are now installed in the dash and don't look half bad! It was one of the very few jobs I could do today that didn't require power or dry weather. With all switches other than fuel selector, I have used the [Mom.On-OFF-ON] type. These were the best I could get that have an OFF position that it directly vertical. Obviously the fuel switch is ON-OFF-ON.

Cab rear panel was block sanded this morning. Only one small area required a further skim of blade putty. If fine weather tomorrow i'll try to get the thing painted. The rifle attaching brackets were straightened and the spring steel 'jaws' where rifle clips in needed to have a minor change to alignment, for rifle to sit properly. I have some deac. SMLE & 'Jungle Carbine' rifles here and I am about to get one out to make a pattern for the wooden blocks that bolt onto floor of cab.

Does anyone have any photos of these that I can have a look at, please?

I want to make these in one piece, using a router for removing the wood where rifle goes and band saw to form outer edge. May start on this tomorrow if weather is bad. Otherwise, the windscreen frame beckons.

Still no 1/4in slot head CSK bolts! They are on back order, apparently.

Howard · #4 06-03-12, 11:41

Tony,
Looks like I have tomorrow off (and maybe the next day, and the day after)...

BEFORE

AFTER

Five foot of mud has slowed things for me a bit...
So I will get down to the shed & take some piccies & some measurements of the butt locators.
Give me a call on my mobile (Sent to you by PM) & I will send them to you.
If you don't have 'em by lunchtime give me a ring!
H

hrpearce · #5 06-03-12, 11:58

Howard just swap to swamp tracks and keep going don't let a little mud stop you

Howard · #6 06-03-12, 12:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by hrpearce

Howard just swap to swamp tracks and keep going don't let a little mud stop you

Too late, Robert. It DID stop me!

Private_collector · #7 06-03-12, 13:27

Thanks Howard.

Speak to you in the A.M.

T.

T Creighton · #8 06-03-12, 19:46

Hi Tony,
My original ones were two piece which was just as well as the bottom bit was long gone.
I would suggest the base would be best out of treated ply.
Inside is 4 3/4"x1 3/4"
Wall Thickness is about 1 1/8"
Depth is 1 3/4"
Base is probably 1/2" max
Cheers, Terry

Private_collector · #9 06-03-12, 22:26

Thanks Terry,

Those photos will help me greatly.

It may be easier for me to have these fabricated by someone else. There is a local tourist attraction here, The Woodworks Museum. The machinery is all working and they do demonstrations for tourist groups. I might be able to get them interested in making those parts for me with minimal cost. I only thought of that last night. I will call in on the woodwork museum later today to ask if they are interested in taking a small commission

The Woodworks Museum is here: http://www.woodworksmuseum.com.au/index.asp

We also have a Gold Mining Museum, with working equipment and huge range of displays, from mining equip to military weapons: http://www.gympiegoldmuseum.com.au/

We also have the Mary Valley Heritage Railway (MVHR), with vintage rail engines that run on their own rail network of about 45-50km.
http://www.thevalleyrattler.com/

PB210024.JPG PB210025.JPG
I took one of my door 'side curtains' to a local upholsterer. He was busy trimming a vintage utility truck when I called, so I have left the curtain with him, to examine. He will call me to advise price to make new canvas covers. I have ask him to save himself and my side curtain, if his workshop catches fire.

I'm in no hurry for the curtains, so it may work out well if I have him do these when work is low.

Lynn Eades · #10 06-03-12, 23:48

So what is it? Fire or Flood? Do you have both at once?

Private_collector · #11 07-03-12, 10:03

Well.....we HAD a flood. He better NOT have a fire

He still has my curtain!

25-2.jpg
Check this out! What a bargain. Great for a boatie? From a buyers perspective, this is the time to inspect. The irony is, you CAN'T get in here to see it when its like this.

We bought our land high up. The problem with that is the higher winds that blow up the hill from the more 'swampy' elevations.

Still, thats what insurance is for.

You won't see me on television whining & saying "and it's not insured"

P.S: The block of land in the above photo was ENTIRELY under water. Not even one ant hills worth of dirt above the water!

lynx42 · #12 07-03-12, 11:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by T Creighton

Hi Tony,
My original ones were two piece which was just as well as the bottom bit was long gone.
I would suggest the base would be best out of treated ply.
Inside is 4 3/4"x1 3/4"
Wall Thickness is about 1 1/8"
Depth is 1 3/4"
Base is probably 1/2" max
Cheers, Terry

Tony,

The base has aslope inside the base to allow the rifle butt to sit correctly. It is thicker one end than the other. Don't fall for the trap of making them flat as the rifle won't rest easy.

Regards Rick.

Private_collector · #13 07-03-12, 11:41

Cheers Rick,

I didn't know that. I had wondered if it would be an issue, but I have not seen this mentioned anywhere, so thought it mustn't have been a problem.

Whether I make them, or have them made for me, i'll make sure that is catered for. That will mean I have to get the rear panel (with upper rifle brackets full attached) finished so I can gauge the angle from 'real-life'.

I had intended to call in to the Gympie Woodworks Museum while I was in town this afternoon, but they wern't open!!! Try again tomorrow