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  #1  
Old 05-03-12, 23:46
Hanno Spoelstra's Avatar
Hanno Spoelstra Hanno Spoelstra is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin powles View Post
I have a fellow digging out the trucks history and an article of when it was first restored many years ago.
Kevin,

That's a good one for CMPs where are they now?!

Here's hoping you investment turns out well plus another CMP is saved.

Hanno
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  #2  
Old 06-03-12, 19:19
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Marc van Aalderen Marc van Aalderen is offline
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Kevin,

I understand 21 years outside taking their toll. I do not understand a previous owner(s) leaving a nice truck like this one outside for that period. It's barbaric....

Cheers,
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  #3  
Old 06-03-12, 23:42
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kevin powles kevin powles is offline
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Hi, Can anyone tell me the style of cab I need to replace this one ?, cab12, 11 ???. It arrives tomorrow first job is to see if the engine is free, going to try to start it up and see whats needed mechanically, Is the cab easy to remove?, just bolted on??.

kev.
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  #4  
Old 07-03-12, 01:01
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cletrac (RIP) cletrac (RIP) is offline
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It's a Cab 13 4wd C15A.
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set
1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis
1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun
1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends
1941 Cab 12 F15A
1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5
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  #5  
Old 07-03-12, 03:05
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Holy crap where was it left in a salt mine...there had to be a small about of body filler in that 21 years ago to fall apart like that...I thought salt on the roads here was bad...lol
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  #6  
Old 07-03-12, 14:26
Keith Orpin Keith Orpin is offline
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OMG !. How could anyone be so heartless to leave suce a nice looking Chevy outside, to face the elements, unprotected for so long. Still, hopefully, Kevin will sort her out. It looks like she is a late production 13 cab, as she has sling plates on the front axle. Be interesting to see some more shots of her, i.e. dash etc when you get chance.
You asked about removal of the cab, all fairly straight forward, it should be all bolted/rusted together. Remove the dog house over the engine inside the cab, unbolt and remove the doors and floor plates, gear lever gaitors etc and wing sections first, followed by removal of any wiring which may still be present on the front cowl (watch you don't damage the rad, if it's still fitted), then the top half of the roof, which is bolted to the top outer windscreen frame and waist line of the lower and upper rear panel. Now unbolt and remove the outer windscreen frame (you have to lift this up). Remove the lower back panel, and you should be left with the angle iron archbar frame work and floor frame work. Disconnect the fuel lines and any earthing straps, that may be there. The floor frame work will be bolted either side of the chassis, more or less in line with the front axle, and though a spring arrangement at the back and center of the cab. Find yourself a couple of willing helpers and lift the floor section away.
It sounds a lot, but 1/2 a day should see the front end removed
Hope this helps.
Good luck with her, and keep us all posted/updated
Regards
Keith
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  #7  
Old 07-03-12, 15:54
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Take heart CMPs in far worse condition have been restored

Hi Kevin

Take heart it can be restored, being from the pictures relatively complete it is a good candidate for restoration. Though you originally asked about a cab frame my experience has been that it really is not the frame of the cab but more the sheet metal which on CMPs relatively simple with some of the curve pieces as exceptions. The cab top is the hardest part, but as the truck can be enjoyed with that removed, leave it for last. Get the critter running do the work to make it safe to drive it on the road and start enjoying it while you hunt for a replacement cab top. Of course if you can find a donor cab in good, better condition that will be a huge jump on restoration process.

Cheers Phil
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