C8 progress in Texas

Hanno Spoelstra · #1 30-04-12, 00:52

Just to remind you, here's a link to an older thread on the subject: Canvas Side Curtain Frame.

HTH,
Hanno

david moore · #2 30-04-12, 03:11

Bob - you are right - no offset at the front , just a change in angle. There is an offset at the rear. Not sure why it has to be that way but it seems to work. I'll get dimensions of the flat bar tomorrow but yes, welded to the "spike" which is forged to square (blacksmith-like) not another weld job.

The top bar is round and here is where my example seems very crude; the top bar has holes near the ends matching holes in the vertical struts - they are bolted together with small brass nuts and bolts. Also the top bar has no open slot for it in the canvas - just pushed through ragged holes! Not sure if this is not just a civvy lash up done by post war owner? That round rod system shown in the earlier thread looks much more professional. However, if other people have frames that look like mine, must be a factory job?

My screen has poppers along the bottom and up the back on a canvas "hinge". I'll need to check the top but I dont think so as the door couldnt open then. Was there perhaps a top shield strip like the one that goes down the windshield side? I think I recall seeing the remains of such a piece when I got my truck. There are poppers along the top wood I think - again need to check tomorrow- and that extra piece would then make sense.

david moore · #3 30-04-12, 03:18

Guys
Just going back to my truck as-received with the original screen in place. Clearly not attached at the top but no extra weather shield either.

david moore · #4 30-04-12, 03:28

I now see why they have the offset in the rear frame rod - it is so that the rear canvas "hinge" can be attached to the woodwork inside the plane of the door skin so to speak whereas the front frame is actually at the location of the door outer skin. Thus the screen has to "come in at the back a bit" to put it in technical terms! Hope you can see what I mean!

This whole academic discussion must be equivalent to rivet counting amongst modelers! And this is a Chevy thread! But presumably Ford and Chev Cab 11/12's all had the same screen system?......Uh -oh!...that may start another whole new discussion!

Ganmain Tony · #5 30-04-12, 09:25

Linking that thread has shed new light on the subject

Bob, Phil and David your thoughts???

For what its worth I think the rods set up that Maurice took some snaps of in that thread that Hanno has shown appears to be original set up.

When I pulled apart the old set up on my truck it only had press studs running down the B-pillar timber... not across the top.

Bob Carriere · #6 01-05-12, 04:12

Thanks Hanno for the link to the old thread...... must be getting old as I could not remember them.....Priceless.

Obviously there are at least two similar but different side curtains..... mine have no provision for a top rod but have the 3 bottom "clinch" fastener that fits into the "hat" tabs inserted in the door.

And yes there is a seal installed at the underside of the roof top held in place by domed fastener...snaps !!! simply a piece of rubber hose sewn in canvas. There are NO snaps at the top of the curtain....... the factory picture shows a separate piece of canvas seal installed with snaps.... I have a set and will get pictures and dimensions.

We're getting there.

Now which model came first ......the round tubes with a top brace for more rigidity was probably an improvement over the flat steel bars with no top support.

Now let go to my pictures....

One window is completely frosted...... the plastic is flaking off and very brittle
....so brittle one cracked.... almost like a sheet of glass.

Compare to the good one which are stiff but very clear. I will no doubt follow Maurice's idea and carefully unstich and replace with a modern vinyl and hand sew back together using a leather awl and trying to use the same sewing holes.

The last one is the corner section ...... it has NO provision for a top rod... you can also see the canvass puckered by the shrinking canvas..... remember this is early war time plastic..... not meant to last 65 years.

More to follow..

Bob

Bob Carriere · #7 01-05-12, 04:37

I inserted a 3/4 by 3/16flat steel rod...... almost 14 inches long....same dimension on each front and rear pocket.... but as pointed out by David the rear as a jog in it to allow for the rear offset. When I make them I will heavily sand the square edges of the flat stock to minimize wear.

I would imagine that with the rear of the canvas snapped in place above the hinges...... fairly stiff canvas.... and two vertical rod is would have held in place .... more or less...... but even with the front canvas seal fastened to the windshield vertical post.... it must have had a tendency to open up when moving forward at speed....... what speed he says...!!!

If I had my choice I would totally reproduce the curtains and save the originals.

But I find two stumbling blocks so far... one is the steel rivets used in stress points.... the other is the "clinch" button ( correction they are called "cinch" )which I could not source for installation in fabric.... at least not yet.

The sewing is very crude and even I could do better.... again wartime rush and I suspect the curtains were probably almost disposable... in the parts manual they are listed separately as brown, green, tan, stone, colours and as a kit no rods listed separately.

Now for pictures.

Interesting discussion.... sure sidetracked David's origianl posting.

For David Moore....... can you take a picture of the top corners of your side curtains to see how you top rod is attached.... trying to compare with what Maurice posted.....

Bob