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#1
01-05-12, 04:37
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Follow up pictures....
I inserted a 3/4 by 3/16flat steel rod...... almost 14 inches long....same dimension on each front and rear pocket.... but as pointed out by David the rear as a jog in it to allow for the rear offset. When I make them I will heavily sand the square edges of the flat stock to minimize wear.
I would imagine that with the rear of the canvas snapped in place above the hinges...... fairly stiff canvas.... and two vertical rod is would have held in place .... more or less...... but even with the front canvas seal fastened to the windshield vertical post.... it must have had a tendency to open up when moving forward at speed....... what speed he says...!!! If I had my choice I would totally reproduce the curtains and save the originals. But I find two stumbling blocks so far... one is the steel rivets used in stress points.... the other is the "clinch" button ( correction they are called "cinch" )which I could not source for installation in fabric.... at least not yet. The sewing is very crude and even I could do better.... again wartime rush and I suspect the curtains were probably almost disposable... in the parts manual they are listed separately as brown, green, tan, stone, colours and as a kit no rods listed separately. Now for pictures. Interesting discussion.... sure sidetracked David's origianl posting. For David Moore....... can you take a picture of the top corners of your side curtains to see how you top rod is attached.... trying to compare with what Maurice posted..... Bob
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada 
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#2
01-05-12, 16:26
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Canvas "seal" above screen
Bob - you are correct that there was a canvas seal of sorts attached to the five studs at the top of the cab woodwork above the door. Picture attached of the one surviving in my truck. It is a simple canvas flattened "tube - stitching as shown - overall width 1 and 5/8 inches. No rubber reinforcement in mine. The studs were at about 1/3 of the width leaving the outer 2/3 to droop down and effect the "seal".
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#3
06-05-12, 23:46
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roof wooden structure
Wow, that's a lot of great information on the side curtains! Sure answers a lot of questions I was eventually going to ask...
Getting ready to tackle my wooden roof structure, and had a question: I have two 90-degree angle brackets in the rear upper corners of the window openings, but no brackets in the front where the windshield header wood and upper window opening wood join. Am I missing some brackets, or were they ever there? My roof panel is in bad shape, but still very glad to have it! You can imagine from the photo how bad my original back cab panel was bent to also warp the lower angle iron on the roof. I have only one of the original rear window mouldings so I will use it on the outside. Made an inner one out of 16 gauge sheetmetal that will work, but only gives me about 3/16" gap for a rear window. That's OK as I have some 3/16" Lexan sheet here that will work if I don't use a window gasket. Thanks, David Last edited by David DeWeese; 08-05-12 at 14:15.
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#4
07-05-12, 01:18
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door latch surgery...
My door latches were completely worn out,(no big surprise), and in need of a major overhaul. You could turn the door handles almost 45-degrees before any resistance was felt, so...
Dissasembled the passenger-side latch to reveal a list of problems to repair, but the worst being the square hole where the door handle shaft installs. It has a brass insert that now looked more like a clover leaf than square. Faced with brazing the hole closed, drilling it out, then spending hours with a tiny file to make it square again, here's what a desperate mind came up with... Put one thin layer of masking tape on the square shaft of a door handle, then filled the area to be repaired on the brass insert with a very strong structural epoxy. While the epoxy was still in a semi-liquid state, I installed the piece on the shaft. A few hours later, was able to remove the piece before the epoxy fully cured. After repairing all the other damage to the latch, it seems to work OK. Now on to the the driver's side latch. I's the really bad one!  Thanks, David Last edited by David DeWeese; 07-05-12 at 02:00.
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#5
07-05-12, 02:26
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Last words on side curtains?
Bob
Here is a picture of how the top cross bar is attached on my original - very crude and home-made I suspect. But I have now worked it all out! Up until at least Nov. 1941 (date of my truck) the side curtains just had the two vertical bar supports. The side pockets were stitched closed at the top and there was no cross pocket at the top. (In mine the side pockets have been cut open and the top bar is wired through the canvas to keep it in place.) The angle of the front bar would be such as to keep the curtain stretched -but still a poor seal and rain/dust would get in. To correct this for replacement curtains (production of the cab 12 had stopped by then I assume) they put in a top pocket and opened the side pockets at the top end - and used the three piece rod and socket frame as per the earlier thread. Better - but still pretty well useless I guess - and you cant see a d*** thing anyway even with clear vinyl! Their only use is to keep some of the rain out when the vehicle is parked! Picture shows my original plus top end of NOS "new" canvas - see sewn up tops to side pockets in both. The studs or "poppers" are 11/16 OD by the way. Picture next reply shows.
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#6
07-05-12, 02:29
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11/16 Curtain stud
Here is the inner view - still dont know how to attach several pictures at once - Help!
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#7
07-05-12, 02:31
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And finally
The outer view
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#8
10-05-12, 11:30
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Maybe this'll help
Quote:
Hopefully these pictures will help - these are ones I had made as exact copies off the original timber frames from my truck. I was lucky that one end off each of them was in good nick. To answer your question - yes those corner brackets are original and I'd even say the bolts are too from the look of them. I was able to re use all mine but my truck spent nearly all its life in inland down under. Press studs look original too (what you guys call snaps). There were no front brackets, the two timbers join together using bolts and I suggest the very widest washers you can get in there. To spread twisting forces over the timber and avoid them splitting. I havent had any trouble yet and I have done some miles in mine since the resto. Anyway.... some pictures
__________________
Pax Vobiscum.......may you eat three meals a day & have regular bowel movements.
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#9
11-05-12, 03:40
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thanks for that....
Thanks Bob and Tony for the information and photos!
I can see now why the front wood structure on these trucks failed. I will make some brackets on the corners in that location that goes above the wood so it can't be seen... Tony, what method did you use to make the channel for the angle iron in the front wood piece? It looks to be about 1/8" deep. I studied the bend in my rear roof panel today, and think I came up with an easy solution to repair it. We'll see this weekend... Thanks again! David
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#10
11-05-12, 09:56
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I didnt make it David
Quote:
Long and short is I cant tell you how he did that channel.... sorry. I can tell you the channel is the width and depth of the metal piece it bolts up to (see last picture in my previous post)..
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Pax Vobiscum.......may you eat three meals a day & have regular bowel movements.
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Hybrid Mode
