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#1
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Thankyou Phil,
The nose had been blasted many months ago, and I had asked them to weld several areas also, for exactly the reasons you indicated. Here's where the problem lies: When I asked them to weld, I hadn't yet bought a welder and did not expect to do so in near future. They did as I had requested, BUT remember I had sent panel there to be blasted. Because it was 'au naturale' when it left my hands, I didn't know that the panels where headlights attach had filler below each headlight hole. So when they welded, as per my instructions, they had in fact secured both front panels in a position that I would later need to have adjusted! Thats a long winded way of saying I have to cut welds, move areas of those panels forward (maybe 1/8in only) to avoid need for the masses of filler previously used. Moral of the story: Don't get ahead of yourself. I was young then, now i'm much wiser ![]() I plan to spray certain areas underneath with a body sealer also. P.S: Did you see I did actually get back to you re dimensions for the rifle butt cups? It was maybe a week of two ago.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
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#2
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Engine hatch 5.jpg Engine hatch painted 1.jpg Engine hatch painted 3.jpg
Got the engine cover painted. Engine hatch painted 2.jpg When parts were back inside the workshop & I could take a closer look, I noted that I hadn't entirely obliterated the line where the large round patch was welded in place. It's not well defined any more, but I can't do anything about it now. ![]() Pedal plate painted 1.jpg The pedal plate is finished also. New headlight dipper installed. Accelerator pedal to be blasted and installed tomorrow.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
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#3
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Nose repair 1.jpg Nose repair 2.jpg Nose repair 3.jpg
The repairs to nose panel have started, but there was not enough time to complete, so that carries on tomorrow too! With light fading, I only had enough time to throw on a coat of etch & a single coat of primer. I have since noticed some scratches in the filler that will be re-sanded. It is my aim to do away with need for spray putty, and just apply three coats of primer. With any luck, and a tail-wind, I should have the whole thing repaired and primed tomorrow. Foam & rubber stripping.jpg The engine cover will have foam strip applied to seal edges and protect against scratching anywhere when it's installed or removed, and a strip of rubber will go between it and cab floor. That's another 'tomorrow' job.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
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#4
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Nose damage passenger side 2.jpg
This little gem required a lot of individual stabs with a pick hammer to lower all the high spots. nose repairs finished 1.jpg Nose repairs finished 2.jpg Nose repairs finished 3.jpg All repairs to nose panel are now completed. There were another 6 repairs done today. As usual, it took longer than expected. I hate panelbeating! Cont'd..
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
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#5
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Nose primed 1.jpg Nose primed 2.jpg
Primer applied x4 coats. Nose primed & guided.jpg I did get away without need for spray putty, but went mad with spot putty instead It's easier to sand with 400 grit paper. While the panel was hanging from the hoist, I got stuck into the inside bits and seams. Sanded any areas where sandblasting didn't get all the old paint & muck (Grrrrrrrrrr!). The 'under' parts, not seen, will be sprayed with an underbody sealer. I use a non-tar based stone guard. It dries completely and is able to be painted. It's the same stuff that was used under wheel arches on cab, and inside the rear lower cab panel. I cannot recall the brand at present. Any seams which will not receive the spray sealer were filled with 3M gap seam sealer. Not the brush on type. It was applied along the seam straight from the nozzle of tube, then smoothed neat by running finger (or turps rag) along. A little wrinkle: If using finger, wet the finger first, it stops the sealer from sticking and gives a much smoother finish. See you next weekend
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
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#6
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Oh wise Folks!
I am looking into acquiring a set of king pins for F60 front axle repair. This is not an immediate need, but no harm in starting to look around now. The question is: Are the king pins interchangable with any other Ford truck etc..? I seem to see king pins for sale everywhere, but don't know which, if any, would be suitable. Maybe they are not something which even needs replacing. Again, I don't know this, not even looked yet.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
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#7
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Amongst the other jobs, I have been working through final stages of rebuilding the headlights and dress rims.
Headlights as found.jpg They now look ever so slightly better than 'as found'. Headlight blasted.jpg I recall when the bowls came back from sandblasting. They didn't weigh as much on the way home, as opposed to when they went away! Headlights assembled.jpg The rear of bowls are to be painted next weekend, while nose panel outside is painted. The inside of the bowls are painted in gloss 2 Pack green. Color is different but thats not important as they won't be seen. I just used a green I happened to have some time ago. Headlights finished 1.jpg Headlights finished 2.jpg One of these dress rims had two dents in it. Hopefully you can't tell now. Was 60 mins of light 'tapping' with a jewellers hammer to get to present stage. I'm happy with the result.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
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#8
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Nose ready for underbody sealer.jpg
No time was available for CMP work yesterday, so application of underbody sealer has minimised what could be done today. Nose with underbody sealer.jpg Nose with underbody sealer 2.jpg Nose with underbody sealer 3.jpg Nose with underbody sealer 4.jpg There was a 4 hour delay while waiting for sealer to dry, and it's messy stuff to boot. Very difficult to apply in some of the tighter spots.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
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#9
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Nose inside painted 1.jpg Nose inside painted 2.jpg Nose inside painted 3.jpg Nose inside painted 4.jpg Nose inside painted 5.jpg
Insides of nose panel are now painted. I had just enough time to get insides and underneath painted before light failed.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
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#10
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I can remember Hughes Auto Spares had these brand new in original boxes back in the 1970s.
Quote:
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Film maker 42 FGT No8 (Aust) remains 42 FGT No9 (Aust) 42 F15 Keith Webb Macleod, Victoria Australia Also Canadian Military Pattern Vehicles group on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/canadianmilitarypattern |
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#11
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Keith,
I don't suppose they have any left, do they? ![]() They may not even be alive now, come to think of it! T.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
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