Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

Euan McDonald · #1 30-06-12, 13:48

When looking for the levers Ford and Chev are different. Ford are flat were they bolt to the frame and Chev have a slight relief to accommodate the slight radius of the frame. The pivot length is also different between the F & C as the mounting point on the side of the screen is at different heights. The fixing bolts are slot head machine screw and NOT phillip head.

Private_collector · #2 30-06-12, 14:29

Can't get the slot head screws anywhere local. This is the third time I have wanted slots and not been able to get them. There was even one occasion when I waited for two weeks while the shop checked suppliers and advised that there were none in stock with their wholesalers. Interestingly, at that time, I got on the internet and bought them myself from a company in Brisbane (total of 2hrs away). They shipped them straight to me within a few days. Then forgot to send the nuts with the order and I had to wait for those too.

I am now making do with what can be sourced easily and when I want it. That would have been a big deal for me some time ago, but now i'm more interested in making progress than having annoying delays because I wanted absolute originality. There are a number of things that will never be exact...........the bolts & screws are just two examples of the many!

Incidentally, the wipers will be blasted & painted green, at least.

hrpearce · #3 01-07-12, 08:12

Tony this is what I have. As you can see it's rusry and one nut has a broken stud in it. As Euan said the leavers will require work.

Private_collector · #4 01-07-12, 11:10

PM sent!

Tony Wheeler · #5 02-07-12, 13:42

Hi Tony,

As promised here are some pics of the original rear crossmember. First one is on my FGT but they're identical on all models. As you can see the tips of the chassis rails have been torched off. They should extend about 13 1/2 inches past the crossmember.

I'd say the only useful hole is the one with the grommet, for the wiring to the diff light and the tail light/brake light pair. The corresponding hole on the opposite site appears to be superfluous, because there's no wiring inside the LH chassis rail on blitzes, only in the RH chassis rail.

The 5 hole pattern in the centre appears to be completely superfluous, I've never seen anything fitted there. Possibly intended for some kind of shackle originally but never used. I'm not sure what the 2 little holes are for, if anything.

I hadn't noticed before but you're right about the different size holes in the large chassis plates. It turns out the small holes are for rivets, and they go towards the front of the vehicle. The large holes are for bolts, and they go towards the back. The bolts are there to hold the cast iron pintle hook mounts onto the chassis, as seen in the second pic (the bolts themselves are in shadow so you can't see the heads). As you can see there are 3 more bolts of the same size on the side.

Hopefully you can pick up a complete pintle hook assy eventually. That would complete the "blitz look" perfectly, as seen in the third pic of my F60L. And it may come in handy for towing 25 pdrs down the main street of Gympie!

The other two large holes in each plate are for pigtail hooks, as seen in the third pic.

It's good that you've got a chassis mob doing the work. Amongst other things they can check to see if the previous owner got the spring hangers square, so you won't be crabbing down the road sideways!

Good luck with it all, looking forward to seeing the results. Let me know if you need any more measurements/pics etc.

Cheers,
Tony

Private_collector · #6 03-07-12, 11:22

Tony,

Thankyou for the photos. I will copy them for now and print them to give to engineers when the chassis is sent in for work. I have requested and been granted a week of annual leave for the week starting 23rd this month. That is when I plan to deliver chassis for the blasting & rear member.

If the new piece is placed in the same position as your photos (location of rear spring hanger), there should be enough chassis rail behind so that the end looks correct...........ish!

I do have a tow pintle assembly, with all pieces complete and unmolested. It mustn't be off this truck originally, as EVERYTHING on this poor old thing has been buggerised some way! Thankfully not irretrievably buggerised for the most part.

At first glance.............and possibly second glance as well, this vehicle looked like just a collection of junk, but it does have a number of redeeming features, in that some parts that would normally be difficult to find, were present and part of the sale. For example: Pintle assembly, Very good spare wheel carrier, tool box (not perfect but very restorable), wheel hub nut removal tool (and others as well), Near perfect grille and of course the door top canvases that were a good starting point for patterns.

When I started this rebuild, I had intended to return everything to original specifications, but over time it became apparent that this would greatly delay many stages of the process. In some instances, originality was forsaken in preference of functionality and safety. E.G: Seatbelts will be installed, 12 volt electrics being considered, stone guard used in several places including inside rear lower cab panel, and of course the addition of insulation for heat and noise where possible. In other cases, this was simply a matter of convenience. Some of the fastener hardware would be a good example of that.

These changes are regretable on one level, but for longevity of the vehicle and to increase productivity (mine, not the truck) these decisions were arrived at. I would expect that the new rear chassis member will also look different to how it should, because the height of chassis rail will be increased at new location. Even though it won't be a surprise to see the finished product, it will be unfortunate to see that happen none the less. Still, at least it will be sound and presentable.
front end off 2.jpg front end off 1.jpg front end off 3.jpg
I did get the front end off last Sunday. No problems in doing so, but the very front cross member didn't want to be changed, and I still have one or two of the rivets to remove, before I can change that for a better one I have.
crossmembers small.jpg
It came with the portion of chassis that was attached to the engine I bought about 100 years ago now. Will need to swap the nose panel attachment point, because the good member has the bad point, and the bad member has the good point (well better, at least). Doesn't the chassis look ridiculous with the smaller diameter wheels and axle on front!

As you can see from the photos, steering is off, as is the steering box mount itself. Next week, the plan is to go get the second axle that will replace the rear end, and swap them over on Sunday. I'll finish getting the front cross member off also. The 'new' one will be bolted in place to keep as much of the chassis strength while it is being transported, in several weeks time.

Still not found the chassis number anywhere, and I have been looking!

Tony Wheeler · #7 04-07-12, 16:42

Hi Tony,

Good to hear you have a pintle hook assy, they can be hard to come by. So many blitz wrecks have had the rear chassis chopped off, a lot of them have gone for scrap. Likewise the rear fairlead assy on winch trucks. As you say there were some very handy parts with that chassis you bought. Spare wheel carrier and tool box were especially good pick ups.

I agree with you re originality, particularly in this case, where the chassis has already been irreversibly modified. But with the chassis plates and pintle hook assy in place it will be very hard to pick, so it's hardly worth worrying about hole patterns in the rear crossmember. There's not much point drilling holes if there's nothing to put in them!

On the general question of originality, I think it all comes down to how the vehicle will be used. If it's a "museum piece" which only gets driven to MV events, then originality is the whole purpose. But if it's a "daily drive" blitz, then comfort, safety, and performance on the road are more important. Why not make a few improvements in these areas, if it can be done unobtrusively like the ones you mention. They can always be reversed later on if some future owner wishes (I'm conscious these vehicles will outlast us by a long way!) Therefore to my way of thinking, these kind of improvements don't detract from the basic integrity of a blitz.

On the "improvement" of 12V conversion, I personally don't see the point, except perhaps for headlights if you plan to do a lot of night driving. And maybe wipers in heavy rain. Other than that, why go to all the trouble and expense of fitting an alternator (or rewinding your genny if you want to look original) and changing your regulator and getting all your gauges recalibrated? Is there some reason I'm missing here?

Tony Wheeler · #8 04-07-12, 16:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Doesn't the chassis look ridiculous with the smaller diameter wheels and axle on front!

Yes, but not as ridiculous as a gun tractor with 6" chromies!