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#1
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Yes Jacques, you are correct about the battery frame rivited to the base. My base has lasted far better than the box too. It also need a slight 'tweak' to straighten, but has no major pitting that might be a hole. Having said that, it is often only after sandblasting that these things appear. With this piece I am quietly confident though.
I will copy your photo showing the fuel filter, if thats OK? Every bit helps. Will need to get back to you regarding dimensions, but first thougts are that they are quite correct. I will confirm this later this week. I fully understand the decision to make slight 'alterations' or improvements in restoration. I like to think some of the changes I make are what Ford would have done if they were able to take their time and pay more attention to quality in construction ![]() P.S: You Chev guys, they aren't built any better, I have been reliably informed.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
#2
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And here's one we prepared earlier
7581564180_c7fd29e4f3_c.jpg It's off Keith Webbs latest offering: http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...d=1#post167811
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
#3
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Hi Tony,
By all means you can use the photos. I chalked the rivet hole areas yesterday and was able to find the ground flush rivets and pop them out. (See attached). That gives me a pretty good idea of the correct overall dimensions assuming the tabs are 1/2" wide as originally given to me, and the rivets are spaced down the centerline of the tabs as they appear to be in photos. I have revisited the photos I recieved over a year ago and have tweaked a few measurments of the battery holder. The notch at the sides is 5-7/8" from the base when I zoomed in. (see attached). My old draughtsman eye thinks maybe the sloping front of the sides is exactly 45 degrees. (a nice convenient line for the designer to draw with the 45-45 triangle) Would you be able to check it for me if you have a protractor or square? The measurements I was given comes in close but not exactly 45 degrees. One other question. What is the thickness/gauge of the sheet metal? Looks pretty thin. The photos look like it is only about 2 mm (14 ga) Brgds,
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F15-A 1942 Battery Staff Jacques Reed |
#4
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Jacques,
I'll let you know about those measurements on Thursday. Tomorrow I won't be getting home until after 1800hrs & quite dark by then.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
#5
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No need to poke around in the dark Tony, my F60S has a battery box which I can whip off and drop in to Jacques for a pattern. Like yours it needs replacing, so it can be flattened out to reproduce the blank more precisely, and even disassemble the riveted cover bolts for possible reproduction. Will be a lot easier than working off photos and measurements.
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One of the original Australian CMP hunters. |
#6
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Too easy!
For what it's worth, the metal thickness of mine is: Imperial 0.0595in or Metric 1.5mm These measurements are on a section where there was minimal surface rust to increase thickness too much. The angle Jacques was enquiring about is not 45 degree on my frame. It is just a little over 45. Tony, I had already checked this afternoon, before I saw your email. Also your photo is exactly like mine, where as the photo Jacques posted on 14th, shows one with a shallow lip on the front. Which is correct??? Nothing is ever easy, is it!
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
#7
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![]() Quote:
Jacques' pic is correct - you and I have lost the front lip which is a separate piece. Looking closely at Keith's pic from the assembly instructions it appears to have a folded top edge, and the ends are folded around around the outside of the box, presumably spot welded to it. Mine has been repaired in this area, with a new front lip being folded INSIDE the box, and roughly welded along the front edge. However you can see that the side has a cut away at the bottom to accommodate the thickness of the front lip, to make a neat flush join with the ends folded OUTSIDE. It's probably cleared on Jacques' pic which I've included here again. The front edges of the box sides are recessed at the bottom to accommodate the thickness of the front lip section, making it flush with the whole front edge.
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One of the original Australian CMP hunters. |
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