Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

Hello Bob,

Regarding original battery 'repacking'. Have spoken with several folks in town yesterday, and two have mentioned a particular business (business of one, I believe) who has done this with original batteries, and supplied to our local battery shop. I will be in town this afternoon to pick up my battery box from the shop that folded it for me. While i'm in town I will call in on the battery shop to ask about this.

Problem with getting an original case is simply the total lack of cases in circulation. I fully expect I will look & not find a suitable case, then once bought something less than ideal, hundreds of the bloody things will show up! That seems to be the way for me. Macs Auto in USA have a new battery that is perfect for me, but they don't ship O.S, even though the batteries are shipped dry. Add to that the huge post cost and it's not even worth the time to consider as an option. Surely there MUST be someone who has these in Aus, and if so, I will find them eventually. One of the guys I spoke to runs a Hot Rod shop in Gympie, and even he doesn't know of replica battery source.

Tuesday I spent a couple of hours making a new battery hold down frame. I have altered the design a little for simplicity of construction,and hopefully it will be a little stronger as well. There will be a rubber pad running full length of both the end pieces, to protect the battery.

With it looking most likely that the chassis will not be back to me this week, I am filling in time doing some of these little jobs that wouldn't normally get done at this point. It's what I call the "little win" jobs.

[Ian Fawbert]

Hi Tony,

Just a guess, i saw alot of battery casings being used as cigarette ash trays at a bowling club on the south coast of NSW. Might be a place to look and see if you can swap one for something?

Last i was at Pope Batteries in Sydney (blacktown to be specific) to have my jeep one rebuilt using my case, it cost me near on $300 (ouch... i wont be going back at that price- considering i bought the whole thing new, case and all 4 years before for around 180/200). He told me the palce which made casings is now closed/sold or so on- i think it all went to south africa and at the time he couldnt get casings (but if you had one, he would rebuild it as he had enough plates etc to last a long time).

I would be interested to know how much the people you were speaking to would charge for rebuilding a battery.

I am sure if you start asking around local farmers, you will find casings in sheds or on their rubbish tip.

Cheers,
Ian.

[Private_collector]

G'Day Ian,

You're right about the farmers. They have the most amazing things just sitting around. I'm already spreading the word amongst the 'cockys'.

Will be leaving for town in around 1hr, and i'll go straight to the battery place. They are really great people to deal with, so if there is any way they can help me, i know they will try.

I can't believe those old batteries would be used for ashtrays!!!! Good ol Australian ingenuity, eh.

I'll let you know how I go, this evening.

[Private_collector]

The battery box frame is back in my hands again, and it looks fairly good.

I still have to attach the front piece. That is a job for tomorrow, as is final adjustment of the hold down bolts. In the photos you can see I have held one set of bolts in place with sticky tape for now. That probably wouldn't be sufficient for real use, so I better put nuts on too

The hold down plate actually fits, yay! I made it while the frame was still at the sheet metal shop being folded, and was sweating on getting it back to see if I had wasted my time. As it turns out............I hadn't.

I really wanted rivets, but besides the fact I couldn't find any, I also wouldn't fancy my chances of inserting them without making a fair bollocks of the job.

So I settled for these hex head bolts. I will rough the keyway up a little once tightened in place, and they will get a dollop of body filler in the holes. Sanding the filler correctly should give the appearance of rivets!

Had a disappointing discussion with the local battery shop staff regarding finding a correct style battery. No joy there. They have recently taken over the business and don't know anywhere I could get what I wanted. I did find the name of a place in Vic. that may be of help. I'll phone them in the morning.

With it looking unlikely that I will get exactly what I want, and bearing in mind I may run 12v anyway, I came up with a slightly lateral idea. The battery only needs to look original from the top and front. Assuming I eventually find ANY old Ford battery as a pattern, I can make a 'fake' battery top that is actually part of the battery hold down plate! If I make another plate that is slightly higher side profile, I can have the fake battery top showing on outside, with the real battery top hidden beneath, completely out of view. It's shifty but it should work if done well. May be able to incorporate the fake battery front into the mix as well.

All this just because I don't like the look of modern batteries.

[Ian Fawbert]

Hi mate,

Yes, were are a clever bunch. When i told the bloke at Pope in sydney, he said they were likely cracked, but i had never forgotten they were there!

The holder looks good! Well done there.

If you did want rivets, there is a guy here sin Sydney has ALOT. Mainly for vintage car hood irons, check here, his name is Richard. http://www.hotfrog.com.au/Companies/...ian-Hood-Irons

Shame about the battery place. Good luck on the hunt in Victoria. I'd also suggest trying Pope batteries here in Sydney as they did do the rubber case style, but as I said above, I'm not sure if they can still do new batterie- I'm sure they have tried to get more cases as that was one of their main draw cards!

Cheers,
Ian.

[Tony Smith]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Hello Bob,

Regarding original battery 'repacking'. Have spoken with several folks in town yesterday, and two have mentioned a particular business (business of one, I believe) who has done this with original batteries, and supplied to our local battery shop. While i'm in town I will call in on the battery shop to ask about this.

Problem with getting an original case is simply the total lack of cases in circulation. I fully expect I will look & not find a suitable case, then once bought something less than ideal, hundreds of the bloody things will show up! That seems to be the way for me. Macs Auto in USA have a new battery that is perfect for me, but they don't ship O.S, even though the batteries are shipped dry. Add to that the huge post cost and it's not even worth the time to consider as an option. Surely there MUST be someone who has these in Aus, and if so, I will find them eventually.

There was a discussion on batteries HERE.

Macs sources their batteries from THIS manufacturer (Click on Batteries>Ford>Ford 40-53). All well and good for North American customers, but we might baulk at the shipping costs here in Aus (and they will ship to Aus). As the manufacturer, you could ask if they would be prepared to ship you just the empty case for you to have packed here?

[Private_collector]

Tony, my dear chap,

Thanks for the web link. I have emailed Antique Auto Batteries a few minutes ago, asking (well kind of pleading) for either an empty case of the bits that would make up the top, so I could make my own. Visually at least.

If nothing else comes from visiting that site, there were some excellent photos showing every detail of the 2HF battery. That will come in handy, should I have to try and duplicate.

I'm obviously not the first one to think of 'dummy' battery tops! Still haven't found a Ford one, but i'm still looking.

[Private_collector]

Battery box is finished.

Just requires painting & it's ready to be attached to the step assembly. None of those parts are ready yet, though. Still to be blasted......apparently.

I'm happy with the way these bolts look with the filler added. They're not perfect, but they will do me for 'claytons' rivets.

[Private_collector]

While awaiting the return of the chassis, I have a range of things to turn my attention to. The battery box was obviously the first, and this afternoon I started work on the fuel tanks. I have a number of tanks, ranging from totally buggered to not quite good enough to use as is. The passenger side tank falls into the latter category, but will only need minor cosmetic work, at least on the outside! Inside is full of flaky surface rust, but that will be addressed later. The driver side tank is sound but full of dents ranging from coin size to full blown heavy damage to one of the welded seam edges. I will post some photos of that little treasure in coming days, but what I wanted to write today is in relation to a funny incident that occured today.

I started pulling out the damage on the seam, and quickly realised I could do more harm than good, because I don't have the required equipment. Not wanting to cease completely, I investigated removal of the rusted-in drain plug. Whatever the bolt (or maybe something else) used to look like, was now just the portion left after somebody snapped it off at about 1/8in above the outside of the tank.

First I drilled the centre, then drilled larger, then larger, until I felt it would take a substantial size ezy-out. Using the ezy-out failed miserably and was looking likely that it too may snap, so I stopped. With the original bolt rusted tightly, I wondered if I could just tap a thread to its inside and add a smaller diameter bolt. Tapped the hole to 3/8in, made several passes with the tap, then inserted a 3/8in bolt. The bolt went in with much encouragement, getting harder to turn with each attempt..............until..............yep, it snapped too. Now I had a snapped bolt within another snapped bolt. Cursed myself for being so bloody stupid, then started the drilling all over again.

Finally removed both of the bolts. Cleaned up the now gaping hole, and tapped the hole to 1/2in. This one took, and I gingerly tried the correct size bolt without any problems.

The driver side tank will need to be given to a panel beater to pull out the damage on the edge, properly. Maybe next week for that. Passenger side tank will get a good sanding tomorrow or Sunday.

What do people use to de-rust the insides of fuel tanks?????

[Matt Baker]

Hi Tony,

Way back when i did my apprenticeship with Sleeping Beauties In Brisbane we used a product called EPIREZ, It was a two pack Epoxy that when mixed you poured it into the tank and then rotated/moved the tank in all directions to fully cover the inside. It was quite an effective method of sealing Rusty Inners and was Impervious to todays fuels.

Cheers Matt Baker

No Doubt One of the Geniuses Will Know Better.

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

What do people use to de-rust the insides of fuel tanks?????

Some take a handful of pebbles and some water and shake the tank until the insides are clean. Others take sharp edged glass (smashed car glass) and bungee the tank to a cement mixer and let that do the hard work .

H.

[Private_collector]

Thanks guys,

Matt, I was hoping there would be something like that. Some miracle chemical that strips the rust away, leaving the inside clean (and possibly has a delightful minty fragrance). I have started looking into the range of tank cleaners & sealers, such as POR 15 etc.

Hanno,................seriously! People actually do those things. Guess the industrial revolution has come around again. I do understand that those would be good mechanical debridement, but what about the baffles inside preventing free movement, or worse, damaging the baffles themselves. I do like the glass idea. That's really quite ingenoius. Not sure exactly how I would set the tank up for continuous shaking or rotation.

A friend of mine has a dog that's epileptic. I could gaffer tape the tank to his back, I guess!

Seriously though, thanks guys

P.S: Ordered new front wheel cylinders from Rockauto in USA. They were just over $31.00US each, and with postage still came to less than $100AUD. Shipped via FedEx and trackable. I'm following their progress since they were despatched several days ago. I lead a sad little life.

[colin jones]

Tony, I would'nt use the dog. One spark and "WOOF" all over red rover?

[Lynn Eades]

Do you have the original top frame to copy for your battery?
My guess is it should be a std ford one as seen in Aussie LP2/2a Carriers, without the bolt on lid. Keith(or some one else might like to chime in with the answer. If that proves to be the case, they are quite lightly(panel steel) constructed, with steel across the four corners,and a central loop for the hold down studs.

Who is up to date with batteries?
Apparently the std. car battery is now (last 5 years?) a "calcium" battery rather than a "lead acid" battery.
I have heard the new batteries dont always work well with generator charging systems.
Anyone like to back up or refute this?

[Private_collector]

Lynn,

I have been told much the same thing about some of the modern batteries. It's not dire though because a range of options are still available.

I have seen the original style hold down frame in photos, but decided to make my own somewhat different style. That will do me well enough for now. If I happen to fall head first into a box full of NOS battery top frames, I will certainly shove one under my shirt & walk out whistling, but I don't fancy the odds of that happening.

[Private_collector]

Originally Posted by colin jones

Tony, I would'nt use the dog. One spark and "WOOF" all over red rover?

Oh Dear.............That was spectacularly BAD!

A man after my own heart.

P.S: Do you know how to make a cat go woof?

Pour petrol on it, and strike a match. Whoof!!!

[Private_collector]

It is with heavy heart that I acknowledge my idyl week of leasure is over. Back to work tomorrow morning. It will be a brave colleague that asks me if i'm glad to be back. I fear I may cut off their head, scoop out the insides, and send it to their mummy as a vase. (Thank you Cpt Blackadder)

Why couldn't I have been born rich instead of devistatingly handsome?
No, that's not true. I have a face like a dropped pie! And not rich either.

As for todays efforts, nothing of great importance...again. Did get to a certain stage with work on the 'fake' battery top. The first layer of blade putty has been laid in the gaps between the three cells. There is not much that cannot be made either from scratch, or taken as a pettern from an original item. I have ordered 1x original period Ford cell cap from UK, and that will be used to make a mold for a batch of 'new' ones. The lead cell connectors can be easily made from scratch. I hope to be able to incorporate the "Ford" lettering from the top of the cap, into the cell connectors, making them look more realistic. The only thing I probably won't be trying to replicate will be the lead poles for the cables to attach to. These are easily obtainable from scrap metal place in town, so I will ask them if I can hack up a couple of old batterys to get em.

That's enough for now. I'm off to bed to read my newly acquired Ford book.

Oooooh, just one more thing. I was following the journey of my front wheel cylinders via FedEx tracking, and see that they are now in Honolulu, HI.
Lucky bastards. Hope they bring me a nice loud shirt!

[Private_collector]

The front wheel cylinders have arrived. Only 8 days from order to arrival. Really only 7 days, because I got the package note yesterday, and couldn't pick up until today. Less than $100AUD for both, including shipping.

Also, take a look at this footage I found on youtube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSnDr6zMlJs

It is an amauter film of the Victory Parade, London, 1946.

A dear friend of mine is the commander of the Churchill Tank that appears 3:05 into the film. What an honor that would have been. The film is even in color. I don't believe todays O.H & S would allow tanks to run so close to pedestrians these days. And probably not that fast either.

I remember in the early 1990s, I was at a "VJ" Day parade in Brisbane, and a couple of modern tanks were participating in that. I vividly recall the tanks were shut down for an RAAF fly past, then they started up together. I was standing quite near one of the two when the engines were started. Oh my GOD! I have never felt such a shaking of the ground, as they both roared into life. The whole street just vibrated with the immense power and noise. That's a feeling I will never forget. Mind you, there is such a number of pipes etc below the streets, that probably played a part in magnifying the effect.

The most moving sight for me that day was one old soldier who had obviously had a stroke at some point in the past and could hardly walk, but he half staggered, half dragged one leg, the ENTIRE LENGTH of the parade. He would be gone now, no doubt. There's no justice in the world

For those who don't know, VJ stands for Victory over Japan. In these politically correct & enlightened times, we now call the day VP day (Victory in the Pacific). Wouldn't want to upset the defeated agressors!

[Ian Fawbert]

Hi mate,

Not pedalling my own wears as from memory, I've sold them all, but I did fall over a pile of nos battery hold downs (the only decent pile I've ever fallen on!).

Here's a pic of the ones I had:



As fitted on my f15a to see how it fitted. They had a ford number which matched the parts lists exactly and were with a lot of other surplus stuff.


Hope this helps,
Ian.

[Private_collector]

Ohhhhhhhhhhh, crap!

Well Ian, if you ever find one you haven't sold, please let me have first option on it. I would rather have original spec if I can. There's enough 'substitute' materials already on this truck.

Thanks for posting the photos.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi

The battery hold down as shown in Ian's post is visually identical to Ford, Lincoln, Mercury, and Ford trucks used up to the late 40s. So you may be able to widen your NOS search. It is visually identical to the orginal one on my 49 Lincoln Cosmopolitan.

Cheers Phil

[Private_collector]

Thanks Phil.

Search goes on.....

[Matt Baker]

Hi Tony,

That Youtube Video was Great Thanks for the link, I bet my Father and his Parents would have been at this parade as the Family didn't move out until 1949.

Cheers Matt Baker

[Jacques Reed]

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

The battery hold down as shown in Ian's post is visually identical to Ford, Lincoln, Mercury, and Ford trucks used up to the late 40s.

Hi, Further to the battery hold downs. Attached are photos of the Vintique Repro I will be using. Unless NOS is absolutelly essential these look pretty good to me. After a few years of battery acid mist on it you will probably be needing to replace it anyway.
For those following the battery holder construction I am presently finishing off accurate drawings of it. When finished, I will post it on the forum along with some fabrication tips and info.
Wish to thank Ian Fawbert for the original pictures and sketches, Tony Baker for further info and photos, and Tony Wheeler who kindly leant me his holder to lift the dimensions. A real team effort from the Ford CMP truck lovers in Aus.

[Ian Fawbert]

Hi mate,

No worries. I'll have a look in the pile of bibs and bobs and see- yours first up if I find one.

Jacques, I am glad you had worked it out or are nearly working it out! I'm sorry I didn't get back to you- a lot of things piled up and I forgot about it. If I can help anymore, please let me know.

Cheers all,
Ian.

[Private_collector]

Has anyone heard from Mike Calnan (Gunner) in recent times?

I sent him a PM more than two weeks ago, asking if he received the USB with the Ford data plate photos on it. I have not yet got any reply.

This evening I emailed a fellow that reproduces WWII vehicle data plates, asking if he could copy from the high res photos, same as sent to Gunner.

I'll let you know when / if I receive a reply.

[Private_collector]

Well, I did say I would let you know the reply to my email, but I didn't think it would be this soon.

The chap has asked that I email photos, sizes desired & material for the plates. I'll do all that tomorrow and email him again in the evening.

[Jacques Reed]

Originally Posted by Ian Fawbert

Hi mate,


Jacques, I am glad you had worked it out or are nearly working it out! I'm sorry I didn't get back to you- a lot of things piled up and I forgot about it. If I can help anymore, please let me know.

Cheers all,
Ian.

Hi Ian, Fully understand, know how time slips away ie. 20 years later and still working on my F15A. I am still very grateful for the original photos and sketches you sent me as it got the ball rolling on making one up and filled in bits of info missing from other information sources. Many thanks again!

[Ian Fawbert]

Jacques,
Thankyou. Good to hear mate! I look forward to seeing them sooner or later!


Tony,

Have you tried Shane Hodby (in Qld) who is in the MJCQ? He and another guy whose name escapes me now (Peter?) have been doing repro dataplates for quite a while- i think they did have Ford CMP ones and if not, would make them up from pics and dimensions.

Cheers,
Ian.

[Jacques Reed]

Hi Ian,

While on the subject of data plates I probably will stick this in the For Sale or Trade section but if anyone has a good (or at least better than mine, F15A plate) I will swap it for a good F15 plate. See attached scans. Otherwise I will also be keenly following the thread on data plate reproductions.
Brgds,