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#1
29-08-12, 00:52
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I will second Richard's advice, and add to it that why would you have nice clean drums, nice clean shoes, and then subject them to the excess heat trying to set them in. Bring the hub and drum in with your shoes and let them either shim the linings if they are going with rivets, or else install thicker lining material and grind it to match the radius.
As a mechanic, I use to spend a lot of time removing the glaze from brake shoes. Why would you want to restore a vehicle and start off with the problem before you even get it out of the shop? 
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#2
29-08-12, 02:59
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The brake drum by itself is likely the same as a civilian 3 ton or such used with the sprocket holder welded on to it. It might be worth finding out for sure. That sprocket holder would be easy to transfer to another drum.
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2
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#3
29-08-12, 03:12
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carrier break drums
I am glad that CLETRAC mentioned going to the modified civi side. Mr. Ford reused and reused. There has got to be a compliment out there somewhere.
Bob
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#4
29-08-12, 04:58
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The part that the sprocket bolts onto is welded to the drum. This makes it different to any truck setup but the basic drum is likely off a three ton. I'd guess three ton because they used the heavier brakes.
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2
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#5
29-08-12, 08:18
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The drum is carrier specific, and the mounting surface for the sprocket is part of the drum casting. Michael, I think that is correct. BTW, I am not sure of this, but I think the "BB" part numbers are of British origin.
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Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions....
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#7
29-08-12, 16:48
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I do not think you would ever normally machine the carrier drums thin enough to be of concern. Bear in mind we are dealing with mechanical brakes that apply much less pressure than modern hydraulic, power systems and very sturdy drums. Many cars in the 20s had stamped steel drums about 1/8" thick. Another point to be made concerns grooves sometimes worn by rivets protruding from worn linings; a bit of a radial groove will have virtually no effect on braking & is sometimes more desirable than turning a great deal of metal off to remove the groove.
Most reliners can apply thicker lining & machine the newly lined shoes to the exact diameter of your finished drum. Each side does not need to be the same diameter but be sure not to mix the shoes up! From personal experience I have found that bonded linings often come loose on vehicles that are used infrequently. I always prefer to have riveted linings if at all possible.
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