Outer Wheel Bearings

T Creighton · #1 02-09-12, 08:37

Hi Garry,
Just run a bead of arc welding right around the centre inside of the race. It will fall out once it cools and the weld shrinks.
Regards,
Terry

Private_collector · #2 02-09-12, 12:23

I agree with Terry!!!

I have done this on my CMP rear end, and it works VERY well.

rob love · #3 02-09-12, 16:16

I have heard of (and used) this method for the outer races, but in the case of the cone, won't it make it even tighter?

T Creighton · #4 02-09-12, 22:27

Hi Rob, You are certainly right about that.
I understood Garry was trying to get the cup out of the hub. For the cone I grind a big flat on it (keeping well clear of the axle surface) with the angle grinder. One hit with a cold chisel should loosen it.
Cheers Terry

gary_bath_jr · #5 03-09-12, 00:13

Hey Terry and Rob

Sorry if I caused any confusion but I took a picture of the part I am talking about. If the welding idea is still plausible I will try that out very soon.

Also I took my tranny to a "Professional" who really hosed me and made me miss the AC12 Convoy he also had my transfercase but was unable to get one gear of so he could not remove the cover. Is there a special puller to get this part off?

T Creighton · #6 04-09-12, 00:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by gary_bath_jr

Hey Terry and Rob
Also I took my tranny to a "Professional" who really hosed me and made me miss the AC12 Convoy he also had my transfercase but was unable to get one gear of so he could not remove the cover. Is there a special puller to get this part off?

Hi Garry, Looking at fig. 24 Page N9 in the MB F1 manual that gear (or clutch dog) does not have to be removed to take off the cover. Figs 29 and 30 show the dog being removed from the shaft.
Glad you had good luck getting the hub bearings out.
Regards, Terry

gary_bath_jr · #7 04-09-12, 00:29

Hey Terry

I kind of thought that it did not have to come off, the guy that was looking at it claimed to have spent several hours trying to get it and the cover off and researching how to get it off but was unable to. I am going to try to remove it myself (the cover) and will order new seals at that point, I do have another t-case here from my C-60 but it has a large hole in it.

Does anyone know if it is possible to order a replacement part for the transmission or if anyone has a spare or 2 as both of mine appear to have been run with loose bolts in the driveshaft and broke the peice in the photo's below on both trucks.

Gary

Phil Waterman · #8 03-09-12, 00:16

Hi Gary

I hear what the guys are saying about heating etc. But lets get back to the three holes and how the manual says to tap out the bearing. Here is the trick I have used with success.

1. Take a punch that will slip down through the three holes easily. Not a tight fit just in case the head mushrooms you want to be able to pull it out. Make a punch head for your air chisel, find a piece of tubing to hold your punch square on the punch head of the air chisel.

2. Vibrate the bearing using punch and the air chisel, keep working around the three holes. Don't really lean on it you just want to vibrate it at first. After you have vibrated each point a couple of times then you can increase the pressure.

Keep an eye on how far your punch is going it so that you don't end up cocking the bearing race.

This approach has worked every time for me.

Heating the bearing race may actually be counter productive because it will make the race expand hard against the hub. Though heating and letting it cool may help. Think this is what makes the welding bead trick work. Or if you can heat the whole assembly and then cool just the bearing race that may let you tap it out.

Let us know what works.

Cheers Phil

gary_bath_jr · #9 03-09-12, 02:00

Hey Phil

That worked!! I got the broken peice out, the only problem I had was one of the screws will not come out so I had to work around that. I sprayed it several times with Liquid Wrench and will try to get it out later.

Now that I have the old ones out do I need to press the new ones in or will they go in when I tighten the wheel nut?

Thank You!!
Gary

rob love · #10 03-09-12, 05:58

Pack the new bearing with grease first, then use the bearing spacer to knock the bearing into place. Note that there are likely shims on the end of the bearing spacer....you may have to adjust the shims for the new bearing although in reality, bearings are usually a very tight spec, and there is not a lot of variation in tolerance between them. Refer to the manual on how to adjust the bearing with the shims and a dial gauge.

Some early vehicles did not use the spacer, but rather the nut on the end of the axle shaft did the adjusting. I ran into one of these a short time ago when I was salvaging parts for another truck at the local museum.