Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Bob McNeill]

Tony, I must be lucky, as I work for a company where the boss recons " if man made it, man can fix it. ". The boss will spend time making bits or repairing a part that saves the customer having to replace the whole unit, EG turn up a piston for a hydraulic ram, rather than spend $3,000 on a complete ram. recut a keyway, or make an unobtainable bush. Don is an old school Toolmaker.

[Private_collector]

Jacques, that kind of service is disgusting but typical. It SHOULD stand out as the extreme exception, but is fast becoming the norm. I do what I can to reverse that, by warning everyone I know. I also make a point of telling the 'server' exactly what I think of their shitty attitude, & wish them great success in their NEXT venture.

Bob,

Originally Posted by Bob McNeill

Tony, I must be lucky, as I work for a company where the boss recons " if man made it, man can fix it. ". Don is an old school Toolmaker.

Oh how I wish I could work for someone like that! Not only becuase it must be a dying art to manufacture that way, but I wish I could do that stuff for myself.

Several weeks ago the steering rack in my wifes car became very noisy and was diagnosed with a leaky seal on one end of the rack. That seal created problems that made repair a must ASAP. But, as would be expected today, you cannot buy the one seal. We had to buy a whole new steering rack and have it installed. The job was originally quoted at over $1700, but the service department staff got it down to ONLY $1400ish. All for a $20 oil seal. It's just crackers really.

[Private_collector]

Early start for town this morning. The yearly swapmeet has rolled around again. Not a great deal of military stuff, but a few little gems to be found here & there. I bought two Flathead 'Divers Bell' distributors and two sets of plug lead conduits for $40.

Started disassembly this afternoon, and the cleanup has started tonight. Tomorrow I get a few small things painted and pull some step parts off the other truck. I hadn't realised one of the step brackets is side specific until I realised it was curved to match the chassis profile. The penny dropped at that point!

The fuel filter 'dummy' will be finished tomorrow too.

[Private_collector]

Still working on some of the 'small' stuff. Fuel filter now painted (visually complete only, rusted to buggery inside). The horn is finished and ready to go on.

My distributor was incomplete, but thanks to the parts bought yesterday, it is now all cleaned, assembled, and can be sent for mechanical rebuild by a professional.

Nearing knock-off time, I turned attention to removing the steering wheel that is on my other truck. I had been dreading this and quickly found I didn't have the correct size tube spanner or socket to do the job. So I got the nut off with a cold-chisel. It was stuffed anyway, but the two halves can still be used to source another in town. The wheel came loose with a little encouragement from a few dead blows.

I have long wanted to get at the steering wheel, to see if it could be salvaged. The next posting shows what I discovered!

[Private_collector]

I have known for ages that it may be a long time (if ever) before I stumble across an acceptable steering wheel, so I decided to investigate how much success I might have in restoring the one I've already got. The dark stains you can see are from WD40.

This is a close-up of a typical section of the steering wheel upper side. There are several cracks on the rear side, near the hub. They are easily repaired with a special epoxy compound. The following couiple of photos concentrate on the upper side. More on the rear repair work another time.

This is how the cheesy, hopelessly rough surface looks after a few minutes of wet rubbing with 240grit. I only had enough time to do a section of about 1/4 the total outer surface.

And lastly, this is what that same section looks after a rub over with a cutting compound, applied by hand. A second go over with a finer compound will inprove the finish greatly.

I will finish the sanding next weekend. If using a cutting compound by hand, you should go over again with a burnishing cream. I don't have any yet, but it is now on my shopping list for next Saturday. So are polishing wheels for my Sons Dremel. I will follow up all the hand 'buffing' with a machine cut, then the burnishing cream. I think this wheel will do nicely. Pity the small ridges have all but dissappeared, but they were AWOL even before I started sanding. You can just see them in the finish of the above photo.

[Private_collector]

Gentlemen,

This afternoon, I became aware of a worrying new issue, which may have the outcome of bringing the restoration to a sudden standstill. It is not a health related issue, and I shouldn't go into this in any specifics just now, so I apologise for being a tad exasive or vague at this time. I will inform you of the outcome once I know how the problem unfolds, mid next week. I am hoping that my informant (snout, for you fans of "The Bill") has got his information VERY wrong, in which case it will be business as usual, LITERALLY! General hint. And, NO i'm not in trouble with the Police!!!!



In the meantime, this is the steering wheel after the sanding and first go over with hand cutting compound. The polishing has highlighted several areas that I should give more attention to, so it's back to the sanding. This time a going over with 1000 grit wet & dry. Next is a hand polish, machine polish, and finally burnishing cream with lambswool buffer. Mmmmmm........lambswool!


Bought some of these tiny little e-clips today. Hoping one will be good size to be used for the business end of the vacuum booster, where the valve arm pivots. The paper-clip is just over an inch long!

Also got the fuel line connections for the 'dummy' filter. Will attach the lengths of line tomorrow, but can't do any bending until I see the step assembly on chassis.

[Lynn Eades]

I guess its back there in the thread, but, why is it a "dummy" filter?

[Private_collector]

G'Day Lynn,

The original fuel filter looks OK on outside, but it's knackered inside. All corroded to buggery. It will be replaced with a modern version of similar size with glass viewing bowl. Though I want a better 'modern' version, I wanted to retain the original look, so the 'dummy' original one will be put in the correct spot, at rear of battery box, and the new one will be hidden on inside of chassis rail, where it can't be seen unless you get underneath and look up. The fuel lines to/from the original filter won't actually be attached to anything, but will route away out of sight where they will end.

Of course, if I do all this and aren't happy with the effect.....i'll do a re-think & probably cough up for a correct replacement. I think it should work though. Not really a fan of 'smoke & mirrors' but this will give best of both worlds!

[Lynn Eades]

This filter is a rather effective water trap. They have a brass element made from lots of discs. the gaps allow petrol to flow through but not water. They are reasonably common in that they were fitted to all the WWII Jeeps. It should not be too hard to locate a good one. seal kits and elements should be easy to get.

[Private_collector]

I might get one at this years Military Jeep Club of Queensland show day at Canungra, in October. Often good bargains to be had there! Ross Prince from Hervey Bay attends and it's a good time to get stuff from him. That reminds me, I should get in touch with him & order some of the seals I will need for front axle &/or gearbox. Someone recently referred to Ross as "the Bunnings" of military parts. He certainly has the range, but his gear is always quality...........Bunnings not always the case!

[Private_collector]

Painted some of the chassis parts that will need to be returned to engineers to reassemble. Also parts for passenger step assembly. Not the step itself because I ran out of spray putty & couldn't be bothered driving into town, when there were other things I could go on with.

The second steering box was opened up and cleaned enough to find this damage on the sector shaft gears. Hopefully my other one will be usable.

I took this photo as I was leaving the workshop, and at a time when it was too dark to see anything. Examining the photo has given first insight into worm gear condition.........and I still don't know if it's good! I'll get it out and check it next weekend. Anyone know if steering box seals and bearings are still available????

[Private_collector]

Gentlemen,

Can anyone help me out with a diagram of how the wiring harness is routed on a Ford F60, please?

I'm about to look into having a new loom made or purchased. I have the wiring diagram in several manuals & books, but haven't found any information that will show where the wiring actually passes along.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

[Keith Webb]

I have some photographs of how it's routed taken before removing an original loom, not showing everything but how it runs along the chassis rail from the solenoid. I also have some NOS looms including the main one which goes from the starter solenoid to the front shell incorporating the horn wiring, also some original tail light wiring and switch wiring.
The standard wiring provides a cut out but not the good protection a modern set up should give.
There are a couple of suppliers who can make new looms for you and incorporate things like turn signals.
I had a vintage wiring specialist company make and install a loom for Swiss Chris' F15 which seemed to be OK until it got to Switzerland where it was found to have not been properly secured around the dipswitch allowing the clutch pedal to wear through and cause a meltdown. Their circuit breaker also failed to work resulting in a smouldering loom.

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Gentlemen,

Can anyone help me out with a diagram of how the wiring harness is routed on a Ford F60, please?

I'm about to look into having a new loom made or purchased. I have the wiring diagram in several manuals & books, but haven't found any information that will show where the wiring actually passes along.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

[Private_collector]

Cheers Keith!

I would be very interested to see those photos.

I am communicating with a fellow who can make from the wiring diagram, provided I can give lengths etc.

Also considering Scotts Old Auto Rubber, at Oakleigh! Vic.
They have a listing on their website for: FD422/3. 1942, V8 F60S* MIL 4WD BLITZ/PUDDLE JUMPER ( CANADA ) $650.00AUD That's per GST too.

Another source is Vinwire, they have one for $650, and that does include GST.

Those ones would come ready made off the shelf, and should be ready to go. Do you know anyone who may have bought from these people? If so, were they satisfied?

[Keith Webb]

Not much of a shot but it does show the junction of the main loom at the solenoid where it joins the tail and fuel sender loom.



And a little forward of that:

[Keith Webb]

Here's the solenoid to starter cable, new old stock:



The light switches loom



And the main loom which starts at the solenoid and carries the input power to another loom (which I don't have) which then goes to the voltage cut out and from there to the dash and onto the lights and other places.

[Private_collector]

Cheers Keith. I have saved those 2 images.

It all looks very confusing to me. Now leaning towards purchasing one pre-made. That will come with all ends labelled, to aid installation.

Got my MacsAuto parts today. The battery hold down is a perfect fit!
Rather more flimsy than I had expected, at least compared to the one I made. Suppose thats the way it is meant to be.

Had also ordered some of the smaller brake hardware, such as wheel cylinder fluid line bolts, brass gaskets, brass end blocks (at wheel cylinder), line connectors, flexible hose end clips, and a range of numerous other parts. I had taken a punt & ordered the brake pedal return spring(partly shown in one of your photos earlier today), though I wasn't 100% convinced it was the correct choice. Lucky for me it is correct for the job. Sure looks much different to the rooted old one I took off the truck. It had virtually doubled in length over the years. New one is a good strong spring, so i'm expecting a world of trouble getting it on!
MacsAuto Part No. is 01T-2472, BRAKE PEDAL RETRACT SPRING /42-52. Also has numbering 30344F on the packet. In checking the parts manuals I have, this is the correct original part number as well.

[Private_collector]

Pulled apart the other steering box today, and found both the sector shaft and worm gear are almost perfect and certainly worthy of use.

Box case also cleaned thoroughly and primed. Thats as far as I can go with it until I locate a new seal for sector shaft. Betwen the two boxes I have now disassembled, there are two very good bearings that I can use (both the worm gear shaft bearings are identical).

To top the weekend off, I have done one of the stands the chassis will be sitting on while I re-install some of the sub assemblies. It would be nice to put this stand to use some time in the near future. I believe next week the work willl start on chassis blasting & repairs. The stand has been designed to raise & lower using a bottle jack and the 4 locking pins. There's around $100 worth of materials used. Other one will be more costly, I ran out of MIG wire today.

[Keith Webb]

You're fortunate to have such a good sector shaft, Tony. Treat it with great care. This was one of the very under-engineered parts of Ford CMPs up till around 1944, no wonder they redesigned it. Does anyone have an exact date when the '400' type steering box and 6" steering ends were introduced in production?

[Jacques Reed]

Thats as far as I can go with it until I locate a new seal for sector shaft. Betwen the two boxes I have now disassembled, there are two very good bearings that I can use (both the worm gear shaft bearings are identical).

Hi Tony,

Hope this is not a "how to suck eggs type reply" and my apology if it is but I have found over the years that many seals for CMP's are still available as newly manufactured items at local bearing and seal businesses. I was obsessed in the early days with original items until I got a few pitted NOS bearings and hardened seals. My Chief Engineer when I was at sea put me in the picture with bearings and seals and suggested most would still be off the shelf items. Best advice he ever gave me.
It sure beats running all over the country for NOS items that are as as old and hard as dinosaur droppings.
I have replaced most trans, diff, xfer case, and even my sector shaft seal from items obtained at CBC and other retailers. Likewise diff, trans, and wheel bearings. Now I take a sample in and more often than not it can be matched. Ditto NOS versus new U-Joints. All mine are Hardy Spicer of recent manufacture.
Hope this might also help those new to vehicle restoration and save hours of needless searching.

Brgds,

[T Creighton]

Box case also cleaned thoroughly and primed. Thats as far as I can go with it until I locate a new seal for sector shaft. Betwen the two boxes I have now disassembled, there are two very good bearings that I can use (both the worm gear shaft bearings are identical).

Hi Tony, I guess you have noticed that the bottom cup is a lot heavier than the top one. My bearing supplier sourced some new ones from Melbourne. Also have a good feel of the rotation of the sector shaft roller. The needle bearings inside have a habit of collapsing. Good luck. Your thread is really interesting.
Regards Terry.

[Private_collector]

Jacques,

All helpful advice greatly received! The seal part no. is 81T 3591, and I am now checking with a couple of places online. If no good, I will call into Gympie Bearing Service tomorrow. They take the time to look things up, instead of just saying NO can't get it.

I have bought several NOS seals in past and not all were in perfect shape. I agree with you, if available new, go with new!

Terry,

The sector shaft roller bearing is in good shape on one of my steering boxes. I hadn't noticed the difference in bearing cups, because only the lower one is out. Top one is still firmly lodged in place. Looks visually good though, which suits me fine. I didn't fancy getting that one out.

Here's a question you will probably both know. When I put a seal, bearing or cup number into search etc.., I often find items of same number BUT the prefix may be different (in this case I mean the '81T' part). Are these always different to what I want, or are there chance of being correct still. I have avoided biding/buying anything like this until I find the answer to that question.

For example: Macsauto has a steering sector shaft seal - Ford passenger, Part No. 48-3591. Obviously cant tell anything from the picture on website.

[Private_collector]

Macsauto do have the actual seal I was talking about, 81T-3591, at $3.15 each.

Just found it in their catalog, along with the correct bearings and bearing cups for worm gear & sector shaft needle bearing!

Was in "V8 Ford Pickup 32-47" catalog.

Guess I better get the credit card out again

These are what I will order:
*81T-3591 Steering Sector Shaft Seal Retainer - Ford Truck Except 122 Inch Wheelbase
x1 $3.15

*B-3517 Upper Steering Column Rubber Bushing - Ford Commercial Truck
x1 $4.95

*81T-3571 Steering Worm Gear Bearing - Ford 2 Ton Truck Except 122 Inch Wheelbase Truck
x1 $8.80

*A14585S Wire Clip Set - On Frame - 1/2" X 1-3/4" Long - 10 Pieces - Ford
x1 $1.75 (for wiring along chassis)

*B-3593-A Steering Shim Gasket - .003" Thick Paper - Ford
x2 $1.90

*B-3593-C Steering Shim Gasket - .010" Thick Paper - Ford
x1 $0.95

Catalog - 1909-1927 Model T & TT - 2012-2013 Issue - USA
$0.00

Catalog - 1928-1931 Model A & AA - 2012-13 Issue - Foreign
$0.00

Added 10/10/12: These parts have arrived today, and despite being the matching part numbers, both seal and bearing are most definately NOT THE CORRECT PARTS for the CMP. I will write to Macs when I can and discuss this with them. Do NOT purchase these parts in expectation of rebuilding the Ford 375 series steering box!!!!

[T Creighton]

You are on the right track with those numbers Tony. You will see that the number 3591 pertains to the seal regardless of which model vehicle it is. The 81T prefix is correct for the earlier lighter box. 70 3591 is the seal for the later(from engine no. 2G-7047F) heavier box.
Terry.

[Jacques Reed]

Here's another handy hint from my days at sea discussing business with the Chief Engineer:

To remove bearing cups in places inaccessable to pullers:

Fire up your welder, be it stick or mig and put one bead of weld on one side of the cup only. This causes the cup to deform inwards when it cools and the cup will practically drop out.
We changed hundreds of conveyor roller cups this way and I can vouch that it worked perfectly on removing the inner bearing races of my CMP truck diffs.

Hope you find this interesting and helpful.

Best Regards

[Jacques Reed]

Meant to post a photo of the replaced inner bearing cup on the CMP diff in previous post.

I replaced the crown and pinion at the same time with NOS items. Note the thin copper plating on the pinion. I believe this was done from the factory to aid bedding in of the teeth on the two items.

I found many years ago that often the crown and pinion are highly pitted in the area immersed in oil if they have not moved for decades. As unlikely as this may seem, this is because bacteria in the oil create an acid that attacks the immersed parts.
So those "rare" "hard to find" Ebay items are often just overpriced scrap metal. Caveat emptor!

Regards,

[Private_collector]

Jacques,

I used that same technique to remove bearing cups on my rear axle some time ago. Very satisfactory little wrinkle!
Sure is a very dramatic and straightforward way to get em out. Due to the limited space to swing an arc rod inside the steering box case, and my slight but constant tremor, getting the cup out in that way would be........er........problematic. It's not requiring replacement though, and can stay put.

Usually it's the other way around. The most difficult parts are commonly the ones that have to come out/off.

[Private_collector]

This'll break your heart. Hundreds and hundreds of pieces of equipment dumped on Okinawa at the end of WWII

http://www.vintagemilitarytrucks.com...rd_Okinawa.htm

How about this tantalising discovery some years ago.

http://www.ozatwar.com/bunkers/dandenongstunnels.htm

My father spoke about vehicles, weapons and equipment that he helped load into tunnels (or caves, I forget which) cut into a hill in New Guinea. I should have written down the directions, or more correctly, location from some reference points, but didn't have the same interest I do now. A moot point anyway, as it turns out. A volcanic eruption in the 1990s changed the entire landscape, burying everything around under feet of ash & rock.

Still, lots of other finds still exist and are easily accessed.
http://www.pacificghosts.com/news/tunnels/index.html

http://servicesrecommended.com/index...abaul-PNG.html

How's this for a job!
http://www.nzdf.mil.nz/news/media-re...dowrowipng.htm

See this video of a tunnel examination.
http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=ovsmB...%3DovsmB-Sz9C4

[Private_collector]

Here are a large number of REALLY interesting photos, showing a massive military vehicle gathering in the areas of D Day landings, in 2009.

http://picasaweb.google.com/kmbizal/Normandy2009#

My Wife and I travelled through this part of France in 1990, while on a tour. At that time, you could still see pillboxes all around, and the occasional tank shell, rusting in fields or placed as monuments.

Imagine being a part of this scene

[Richard Farrant]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Imagine being a part of this scene
Attachment 52539

Hi Tony,
I was part of that scene, well just out of shot to the right! Some of your countrymen there as well, the Anzac convoy who had driven up from Istanbul were also on the beach with their vehicles. Several Blitzs amongst them.

regards, Richard