Restoration of Hull 731- Carrier, MG (Aust) Mortar Carrying - Page 2

Darrin Wright · #31 28-08-12, 11:28

Started stripping the engine down and removed the heads. The aluminium head broke down (with the help of a hammer) into many pieces and the cast iron head come off very easily with very little work.
Water has gone down the carby and into 3 cylinders. 2 cylinders are buggered and the other has minor damage. The engine will have to be sleeved and bored, will also need a new set of pistons. Removed the HT leads and other smaller items.
Not sure how the bell distributor works, so will have to read up on that out of general interest, and again later when it comes to rebuilding it all. May convert it over to the crab distributor in the hope of better understanding and being able to work on it.
I was thinking of converting it over to an electronic ignition system, but that is a long way off. Not sure if the bell distributor will accept electronic ignition or if it would be better to convert over to the later crab distributor.

Darrin Wright · #32 03-09-12, 11:24

Worked in the local area Thursday & Friday, so spent a little bit of time with the oxy heating the cut bolts that held the front seat mounts to the floor. Managed to get 7 out of 8 out, broke the last one of. Will have to drill and easy out it, later. Also managed to remove and snap a couple more small bolts off.
Sprayed everything with WD40 to soak for the next week.
On the weekend finished grinding the last of the gas cut section on the rear of the hull so that it is ready for the new steel. Marked out the position of the hand rails in the rear and ground off the remains. I will replace the hand rail on the left side as there are stowage boxes and ammunition located there, but on the right I will leave it open so that the kids can sit there and it will assist with routine maintenance and battery changing.
Removed the Vickers tripod mount from the centre bulkhead, nice clean sample of Khaki green paint on the mounting blocks.

I also managed to drop into the lazer cutters and armed with a seat back sample, dropped it off to get some cut for myself and anyone else who needs them.
http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=19096

Darrin Wright · #33 10-09-12, 09:38

Removed the fuel change over tap/rod, exhaust pipes between the engine and hull exhaust system and a fuel tank retaining top bracket from the spare parts hull (#1211).
This required the use of the oxy again (I love this tool in winter!) and the assistance of one of my little helpers, so while there heating I also taught him to heat and cut steel. He was impressed.

Euan McDonald · #34 10-09-12, 12:52

Hi Darrin,
Now you some good samples any chance you may do a run of repo down pipes?

Glenn G · #35 10-09-12, 13:16

Good luck with your resto, it looks like your off to a great start!

Darrin Wright · #36 11-09-12, 11:30

Thanks Glenn, I think I have a good hull even though it has been cut. I am working on the repairs which I will post up here.
Euan, happy to get them made for people if they want them. There was not a great deal of interest in the seat backs and no interest in the diff mounting plate. Sign of the times or everyone already has one except me?????
Let me know...

John Mackie · #37 13-09-12, 11:49

Darren.
reading your post re disys. to change from a "divers helmet" disy to a crab type needs a different camshaft or a 1/2 inch spacer where the gasket goes. seting up the crab disy is exactly the same as the divers helmet. they are best set up on a distributor syncroniser. years ago every garage had one.

re the plate you are looking for the carrier... if it is the plate welded to the rear of the hull and bolts to the pinion flange with 6 bolts i should have one.

Jacques Reed · #38 14-09-12, 00:45

Hi Darrin,

The attached PDF you may find helpful. It is from a Ford Sidevalve forum member in NZ with lots of experience on those engines.

I personally cannot vouch for that method as I set mine up on a "Milesmore" timing jig which I was lucky to obtain many years ago. His experience would indicate that his method would work well also.

Regards,

Darrin Wright · #39 16-09-12, 13:07

Commenced work on the LH side tool panel of the hull. Marked out the position on the hull side and removed the 2 broken brackets that once apon a time held vehicle tools and ground off the old welds.
Also heated and removed a broken stud on the side tool plate, it eventually came out by cutting a slot in it and unscrewing it. 1 more broken stud that would not come out with heat or persuasion. That one will wait for later, may replace the mounting block.
Found 2 salvaged and blasted brackets from my parts supply and welded them in place, on the hull.
Not much time to work on it this weekend.
Replaced the little bracket that secures the jack handle to the side of the hull, made from 3mm steel cut at a friends place.
Also measured up the mounting blocks and numbers required to be replaced, will get new mounting blocks made in the next month.

Darrin Wright · #40 23-09-12, 11:57

While removing the armoured vision covers one of the mounting pivots/studs broke, so this weekend I removed one from the spare hull and cleaned it up. Carefully removed the broken stud and cleaned up the area, marked it out and also test fitted all the linkages and covers to ensure the stud went back exactly as it should and not bind up the opening/closing function.
Also heated and knocked out the dents in the curved section of the air scoop, had to remove the bracket that secures the tow cable to the air scoop. Apart from it being pretty mangled, it was also in the way of the panel beating. After 3 hrs of work I have now got it back into a relatively smooth surface with minimal dents. Will work on the bracket later, it may need to be totally remade.
With some old shelving framework I decided to cut it up and utilise it to make an engine stand for my V8, it will be a work stand and test bed before the engine goes back into the hull. I have also made it so that the pallet jack can lift it and move it around the workshop. Managed to get the front supports for the water pumps and side sections completed and welded together then I discovered I had run out of cutting discs.
Got some steel tubing for the handrails in the back of the hull, now I just have to get some 3/8"rod for the remainder of the rails.
On the lower armour next to the driver someone had cut out and attempted to re-weld it back into place, so I ran the grinder through the weld/cut area to clean it up, then used my Mig to weld it back. I managed to get about 90% done before the Mig wire ran out, so next week will have to stock up on some more consumables, I will look at buying a box of cutting disks to see if the price comes down any.
When grinding the armour and Mig welds it really chews through the grinding discs.

Ian Mastin · #41 23-09-12, 13:26

G'day Darrin,

Great to see the pallet Jack being put to good use's

mate!!! their are good tool to have when working on the heavy gear.
Also mate I hope the two boys are help you out I d'not see them in any of your photo's

maybe one.

cheers
Ian

Darrin Wright · #42 08-10-12, 04:59

Sorry about the lack of info in the last couple of weeks as my Telstra 4G failed and have had to wait to get a new item sent out.
Then when it did arrive they never linked it to my account....at least I got to speak to a human to rectify it.

Just trying to iron out any little lingering issues.

John Mackie · #43 08-10-12, 11:27

i find that en eze out will not remove all but the easiest of broken bolts . when doing my carrier i had to remove about 20 broken bolts. the method i used was to build the broken bit of bolt up with stick weld.when there is about 1/4 inch protruding let it cool and it will unscrew with a pair of multigrips.
last week when dismantling a jeep gearbox one of the selector rail screwswould not undo with the allan key. five minutes with the welder and the screw came out.

colin jones · #44 08-10-12, 11:53

Great job darrin, In almost every case if you have a bit of bolt sticking out and you heat the external material with the oxy, you will get the bolt out. But I'm sure you would already know this. Keep up the good work.

Colin.

Darrin Wright · #45 11-10-12, 10:15

Should have posted this up earlier, but anyway...

Since I do not have a crane to lift my hull up I resorted to having to lift it up with a bottle jack and blocking it as it went. I got it high enough (and safe enough) so that I could get in under it with the oxy to cut all the bolts that retain the exhaust pipes in place and heat up the exhaust elbows mounted in the floor.
Managed to removed the exhaust system from the hull intact, saved it so it will become a sample for what has to go back in later.
Aslo straightened some of the underside brackets while there.

I did find that heating up the portion of broken bolt that was protruding, letting it cool, gentle smack or whack with a hammer and then it would come out. I have one bolt left to remove that holds the seat brackets in in the front of the hull. Just trying to find the time as that one will have to be drilled. I might try and weld a small bolt to it and see if it will un-screw...

Darrin Wright · #46 15-10-12, 12:03

Spent a couple of hours with the oxy heating up and dismantling the brackets for the seat bases and the floor mounts. A couple of brackets broke and will need some repair work to get them back to a satisfactory and useable standard.

Sunday I went to the Jindera Swap Meet (just north of Albury NSW), planned on taking the Command Car to the swap (just for a drive to get it out of the workshop) but the truck would not start (could have been a bit cold).
So I took a normal car and arrived in half the time and still able to feel my fingers, the swap was a bit disappointing. The only thing military were some 1950s wooden .303 ammo boxes, a couple of large flat galvanised ammo boxes and 2 Ford blitz truck manuals. I ended up buying a tapping handle as the one that I had broke a couple of years ago.
I did notice that the price of an egg & bacon sandwich has gone up while the amount of bacon has decreased significantly!

Darrin Wright · #47 21-10-12, 07:04

Took time off work so had 5 days at home.
Commenced repairs on the linkage brackets for the front seats, had to build up the rusted sections with weld and several were broken and cracked around the pivot into the cast floor bracket. Repaired the cover that goes over the steering cam plate, it was bent and cracked, luckily no rust.

Managed to repair the hole in the rear of the air scoop on the left side by grinding down a patch and welding it in. Measured up and cut some 3/4"tube for the handrail in the left side of the hull. After test fitting the tube for the handrail in the left side I have found that nothing really lines up and is square or true with the hull, also the small ration boxes in the front left corner of the rear hull cannot be accessed. I have decided to go back to my original plan of replacing the handrail in the right side of the hull. I can still access the battery and should be able to work on the engine as required.

So I have patched the hole in the air scoop on the right side and have bought and cut 3/8"rod for the upright sections.

Darrin Wright · #48 21-10-12, 07:07

Placed the 3/4"tubing into the hull and tack welded it in, happy that it was straight and true I then welded it in for good. I then cut the 3/8"rod and welded in the 6 vertical sections, this strengthened the handrail and does not take up too much room. Looks a bit odd having it in there as I have only seen one other hull with the handrails in.

Stripped down all the smaller fittings and tie wired everything together ready to be sandblasted come summer and I have some time off.
Sunday morning I measured up for all the steel that is required to repair the front armour and rebuild the rear stowage box shelf, when ready I will visit the lazer cutters and drop of my order.

Darrin Wright · #49 29-10-12, 13:04

Finished welding up the cut out section next to the drivers area.
Mounting blocks have been made and arrived in the post.
Replaced all the mounting blocks for the front mudguards that required to be replaced.
Repaired the 2 seat bases for the front section, had to remove some additional metal and straighten them and weld up a cracked corner.
Now they are in the box of bits ready for the sand blaster come summer.

Darrin Wright · #50 30-10-12, 11:04

Sunday I worked on the engine cover, stripped it down and replaced all the welded in nuts that secure the top grill section and the lower rear covers. Removed the weapon mount post from the top grill as it was broken.
Straightened the rear section of the engine cover as it was bent.
Also straightened the area around where the side engine cover panels go, had to trim the side covers as something is not quite straight. Marked out where the top catches will be welded.
Took some pics of the camouflage paint pattern for when it gets re-painted. You can never have enough pictures, and when it goes back together and painted I will wonder why I did not take a pic of..... when it was all in pieces.
Removed the 4 knurled knobs that secure the lower covers, will get them remade as the threaded sections are partially rusted away and they are a little bent.
From an old salvaged part of a gear lever assembly that was laying around, I heated (carefully as it is brass) it up and removed the gear lever shaft from the front mount for the gear lever. This will be sandblasted and go back it later.

Darrin Wright · #51 06-11-12, 10:13

Removed the blocks welded to the LHF gunners floor section that hold down the Vickers ammo box tray and replaced them with new items. Cleaned up some threaded blocks with a tap, have managed to save and tidy up a few of them, so will not have to cut them off and replace them. Many of the blocks on the floor are rusted beyond use due to dirt and moisture build up.

Finished making and welding my V8 engine stand, welded in some rear legs and 2 vertical supports for the engine bell housing. I wanted it so that I can just have the engine sitting in the stand and also the gear box on it, so hopefully in the future I can run it up as a test bed.

To finish the engine stand required a floor crane, so I went and picked one up from the tool place. After doing some research found that they are all made in China to the same specs, depending on which company places an order will then depend on what colour it gets painted and the load rating on the boom. All cranes have a 8 tonne ram on them. Anyway, a very handy item to have as I will also lift the suspension with it when the time comes.
It's a red one too.

With the engine stand complete, I also pressure cleaned the engine and gear box and removed the mechanical PTO from the side of the box, something I do not need and will sell. It may suit a tipper, but fits any Ford/New Process gear box.

Darrin Wright · #52 14-11-12, 09:35

Picked up a NOS BGC radiator off EBay during the week.
This part has been hanging in a shed for 40 years as a spare for the Ford blitz that the old owner had on the farm. The blitz was sold off 10 years ago and the old owner died about a year ago, so the family are selling anything of value and tidying up.
The NOS radiator is painted Khaki green, never had water in it, the overflow tube and union is still to be bent to the right for the BGC overflow valve.
This is one item that I required.

Darrin Wright · #53 19-11-12, 07:58

Well there was no work done this weekend as we travelled to Bendigo for the Swap Meet.
Booked some bush cabins about 4 km from the site.
Got the family up at 0530hr so we could be there at 0600hr (early bird catches the worm???). With children we got there at 0610hr and commenced walking and catching up with some people we know.
Egg & bacon sandwiches for breakfast, excellent weather 18-20 deg C for the day. Very mild sun burn.

Bought some goodies for the BGC, like:
2 x NOS Ford dash gauges (amp and temp)
3 x Vickers ammo tins (I think I have about 3 BGC worth now, so probably should stop buying those)
another 2 gal POL tin, marked 1944 and Canadian
a Ford sidevalve V8 repair book 1937 to 1947 Ford, Mercury and Truck engines
Ford V8 valve spring lifting tool/bar
flash lube fuel additive
breakfast and lunch, followed by 2 rounds of ice creams for the children
and probably a few other minor things.

Things that I did not buy are in the pics.
Sea mines were $500ea, 3 there
bike in the back of the ute $18000
US jerry cans from $20 to $125 ea (from the shed to fully restored with pourer spout)
Ford sidevalve engines from $600
There was some Aust Military International truck items there,
Field cooker $100
turret bubble for an aircraft (not sure of the price but it sold)
various tank manuals (Churchill, M4A2,??)
RC controlled foam F18 & F15 jets and planes from china, battery powered. Me262 with 1.5m wingspan and a 1.2m long fuselarge for $299, Spitfire for $165 with 1m long fuselarge. They would have been a lot of fun, so is driving a BGC so did not buy them- might ask Santa...

Darrin Wright · #54 19-11-12, 08:01

The mortar rounds were there by the box load, boxes marked 81mm but the rounds were $150 each and looked a lot bigger- 4.2"??????
Hub caps $5ea
Lots of cars stuff and resto services and parts items to assist with a resto.

good weekend to get out and about

Darrin Wright · #55 20-11-12, 09:34

The weekend previous to the Bendigo swap was occupied with a local car club event. Decided to take the Jeep and trailer down for a motorkana/gymkana, where we drove around attempting different activities.
I let me eldest take the Jeep around the events and drive around in the paddock, he was hesitant at first but soon got the confidence up and by the end of the day could not get him out of the drivers seat.
He drives the Jeep around at home but he has to negotiate trees, dogs, house, workshop, dam; so it was quite safe for him in the paddock is 1st low range.

The post are out of order as I had to wait to get these pics. Anyway, enjoy....

No BGC was worked on during this report

Darrin Wright · #56 03-12-12, 11:40

Collected the steel from the lazer cutters and completed a test fitment on the rear shelf sections. The cutting is excellent with the rectangle hole section cut out and all things fit, just have to make a small cut in the rear triangle end sections (left & right side) as that is something that I did not get them to do (save money and reduce the chance of error).
Started welding the large base section in place, making sure all stitch welds went back as they were when it rolled out of the Newport Workshops in Dec 41. Also welded in the LH triangle section ensuring that it was straight and level with the side armour.
Removed the old track winch brackets from the original section, removed and cleaned them up.
Measured and welded them onto the new section of rear shelf. When the hull gets sand blasted so will they. The smaller hardware was saved and wired together for sand blasting later. I now have a large box of small items ready to be blasted.

Darrin Wright · #57 08-12-12, 00:02

Continued working on welding in the rear shelf and making sure it was correct as per the original. Put all welds back in the same place and made a visit to the Bandiana Army Museum to check on their BGC.
Replaced the blocks on the front floor for the linkage cover that is mounted between the 2 front seats.

Darrin Wright · #58 08-12-12, 04:09

From the advice gained in another thread, I proceeded to grind down a 45 deg edge on the LHF side replacement panel and fit the panel. Once straight and in the correct place, clamped it and welded it in.
Had some minor problems with the welder as the wire feed rollers spun on the mig wire, so had to replace the feed roller with a new one. A couple of the welds are not perfect, but they do look like some of the other dodgy welds around the hull.
Also replaced the 2 blocks that hold down the bracket for the front 2 gal water container for the MG.

Repalcing this panel was practice for the front panel section which will be next, having this panel removed from the hull made it easier to get in and out.

Darrin Wright · #59 09-12-12, 08:59

Ground down the edges of the replacement front panel and welded in 2 support braces behind where the panel will sit. Fitted the panel, adjusted the braces, braces fell out, re-welded them back in, re-adjusted until I got a nice fit. Discovered that the front armour plate has a slight bend in it, I wonder if this is why a section of the front panel was removed? Previous accident or did it bend from the cutting????
Placed some tack welds in and then used the bottle jack behind the panel to move/lift it into place until the outer surface aligned. Then started to weld it in for good.
The pics show the process from start to finish, it may not appear that much is happening in them, but there is approx 8hr of work there...still have to place some welds in behind the panel yet.

Lew Skelton · #60 09-12-12, 09:06

Nice work there, I did all mine with arc, it's ballsachingly slow but feels good once finished. On one of the hulls I patched up there was a large hole on the gunners side where the farmers dog used to hop in.