Outer Wheel Bearings

[gary_bath_jr]

I went out and took some pictures of the part I am talking about.

Gary

[gary_bath_jr]

Well I figured it out, Brute force and ignorance works everytime. I had to use a small sledgehammer but the cover finally came off. The great news is that all the gears and bearings look good, all I need to get is new seals and gaskets.

Gary

[gary_bath_jr]

More pictures of the t-case.

[Bob Carriere]

HI Gary

If you take ID and OD measurments to an industrial bearing shop all the parts....bearings and races are still available.... you may need to invest in some speedy sleeves to cover wear grooves in the yoke's shaft surface......

....about $700 worth for a full set for a 2 speed T-case.

Carefull with the metal shims....cut new paper shims with a very light coating of silicone....... you may need another spare T-case for extra shims...... gears have to be preloaded just right.... final results you should be able to rotate the yokes by hand... too loose it will rattle..... any tighter will be too much.... MB-C2 is a good guide for the set up.....

I pre-greased all bearings with a light coating of moly lub during assembly....

I also used synthetic lub...... nice but as a tendency to leak.... like a CMP was designed to do .......

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Bob

CMPs don't leak they marking their territory.

Getting the bearing pre-load is tough, I wish there was a way to really check the transfer cases under-load before reinstalling them in the truck.

I agree go by the manual step by step. The shim sets were I believe originally coated with shellac, modern equivlent is Permatex product Permatex® Indian Head® Gasket Shellac Compound

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...c_Compound.htm

Seams to work but the synthetic lubricants do leak through almost anything. Only problem I've seen is that if it thickens up any it will not squeeze out from between the shims when you tighten the unit up, which kind of blows the fine adjustment of the shims, plus you have to clean all the shims each time you disassemble to add or remove shims to get the pre-loading perfect, personally I doubt that I have ever gotten a bearing load "perfect" usually I end up with good enough.

I wonder if the original Shellac sealant had a longer cure time?

Cheers Phil

[gary_bath_jr]

Hey guys

All your talk about pre-loading is making me worry a little, I have to work on the t-case myself. Does anyone know if Gaskets are available for the t-case and tranny? Or do I have to make them out of cardboard and use the permatex to coat them?

Gary

[rob love]

If, when you are talking about using cardboard you mean like an old cereal box, then don't. You can coat it with anything you want but it will still soak up the oil like a sponge and leak it out. Sure, it's an OK fix to get you home, but if you are trying to do a job right, then you need to use proper gasket paper. It is available in various thicknesses, so if you have some of the old gasket left, use a set of calipers to try and get the same thickness. This is important as the bearing preload can be affected by the thickness of the gasket. When you are worrying about .004 preload, then substituting .120 thick paper for .015 thickness will not do.