Finally getting around to working on my CGT

Stony Smith · #1 20-10-12, 04:39

My ongoing attempt to get the important bits inside for the winter for rebuilding -We had a couple of nice days so I decided to take some more bits off. I was really happy that the bolts came out of the winch coupler -I thought for sure i was going to have to cut it apart. A couple of repairs to the floor and crossmembers -I need to fine a pic to see what the transfer case lower shifter bracket looked like, you can see where someone cut it off -also there is a hole ground through the frame from where the air pump PTO was rubbing on it (also rubbed through the selector box)

The Transmission poured water out forever it seems -then out came the sludge -That will be another day, don't want to think about it right now -still shifts and turns though

Getting the bell housing off the engine when it's stuck might be tricky -do I rip it down to free up the engine -or flip it over and cut the crank in half.....

The transfer case selector is solid.

Stony Smith · #2 20-10-12, 04:42

more pics of the teardown

Phil Waterman · #3 20-10-12, 17:16

Hi Stoney

You should not have to cut the crank, or at least I would not start there. Have you determined what is stuck on the engine, or is it just one mass of rust?

As you have already figured out, not being able to turn the engine over to get at all of the bolts, does kind of convert the engine into a Chinese Puzzle box of what to remove what to get at what.

Have you tried all the normal tricks of penetrating solutions in the cylinders?

If that didn't work then you are down to figuring out which parts of the engine are going to useable and which are going to be hardest to replace.

Remove the head and side cover inspect the block for signs of freeze damage it is cracked game over. Take a look at http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/EngineTesting.htm bottom of page for major crack area.

If the crank looks like it might be good or machinable you can remove the crank and flywheel assembly as a unit by removing the connecting rod caps and bearing caps, remove the engine front cover pull the cam gear off the crank. With that removed you should be able to turn the cam shaft to get at the two screws that hold the cam shaft in place. Remove the cam with the cam out you can remove the engine front plate.

With the engine front plate gone and all the bearings caps and lower connecting caps removed you should be able to lift the crank and flywheel out. I would use a hoist so that you can pull the crank straight up.

OK guys what did I for get?

Hope this helps

Cheers Phil

Bob Carriere · #4 21-10-12, 03:52

Try to remove everything you can to see if the crank can be lifted from the engine bottom in one piece...... then you can remove the clutch pack and the flywheel.

However, having said that I did have to cut one crank...... because I could not reach all the bolts on the connecting rods...... the pistons were rusted solid in the cylinders...... pounding with a wooden block and a sledge hammer did not free them up.......

And it will take you a lot of Oxy-acetelyne to cut through the crank......

If I can be of any help to sort out your 2 speed T case let me know. You are in for some fine welding to rebuild those crossmembers. I can't understand why they had to cut the crossmembers for extra clearance.....

Yes trannies can hold a lot of water.... yet most gears and bearing will survive. By the way all bearing/race are available even today as aftermarket parts........ a good indusrial bearing centre will find you a matching bearing by measuring thickness and ID and OD...... do not go by the part numbers most have changed. The bottom rear bearing is difficult to find... all others are there for the picking NOS brand new...... same goes for the T case bearings and seals.

Bob C

Stony Smith · #5 24-10-12, 03:49

Excellent advice on the engine -although I'm not going to reuse it as I have the 261 now. And your tranny knowledge about water has put my mind back at ease -till I take it apart

The transfer case selector shaft is pretty corroded -may look into finding a donor for that, however it's only metal.....

Phil Waterman · #6 24-10-12, 15:58

Hi Stoney

Two of my three CMPs have had water in the transmission, I think it gets around the shift lever particularly around the reverse lock out rod. One old Chevy GMC guy told me to pack the rod area with grease and grease the ball area once a year, he suggest removing the lever to do this. I've added doing the same to the transfer chase lever assembly.

Now as to water damage to the gears and bearings, take a look at http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/C...ansmission.htm which is old thread from MLU with more pictures added. (some of the pictures are high resolution and large so maybe slow downloading.) My C60S had some really nasty stuff in the transmission. Looked like brown 3 layer jello and about the same consistency when I first got the truck. Completely disassembled and cleaned the transmission and as you can see from the photos there is some gear tooth pitting and one of the shafts developed a chatter after 10 years of use. But now with 20+ years of driving it still shifts good.

Now about the "the transfer case selector shaft is pretty corroded" I assume you mean the tower assembly, or do you mean the shift shafts that actually go into the transfer case.

Think you will be happy with the 261 engine, the 261 engine in my C60S with radio box makes it a very enjoyable truck to drive.

Cheers Phil

Stony Smith · #7 25-10-12, 03:56

that's more great information on the tranny, thanks -interesting that even with the pitting on the gears they are still fine -mine feels a bit crunchy when I turn it over, I'll clean it up and get some new bearings -good as new.....

Transfer case is good -it's the tower that rusted solid -barley any bold head left on the top -that's this weekends project