2012 at the Hammond Barn

[Grant Bowker]

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

For some reason the filler neck fo the rad is in the way of the littel rain trough in the nose piece.

NOTE TO Grant..... remember how the original sheet metal had been troched by the previous owner.... that was properly to make things fit..... now that we have repaired the sheet metal that had been removed we have clearance problems..... I swear it's like a Chinese puzzle.

You might need to trim the interference between the radiatior and the frontal sheet metal, but I'm sure you will use a bit more finesse than the previous owners (not a jagged torch cut) and reinstate a folded lip to have the original appearance. However - if you move the nose shell and the radiator closer together to preserve the relation between fan, front end shell, arch bar, support brackets and radiator - you will also be increasing the conflict between radiator cap and front end shell. Which way do you want to lose?

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Alex

Part of my problem is that I have 4 other cab 12 to check, look at, crawl all over but ONLY the one cab 11.

The nose assembly of the cab 11 and cab 12 is somewhat different..... and my truck had been re-engined with a GMC 228 with all the necessary tweaking modification required. so I am robbing off the cab 12s for parts and idea. some of the fasterners were bolts on the cab 11 but on the cab 12 they are tapered/recessed bolt heads like wood screws.

I suspect that my rad is tilted slightly too far forward...... but can only move back so far before I hit the risk hitting the fan.

Grant....... we will need to remove the axtra rubber spacer on the wish bone rad support..... that will move us 3/16 lower.

From the old pictures I haev taken fo the truck before disassembly both the rain gutter and the rad cap was very close.....

One of the possibilities is that when the rad was "recored" the new core might have been a fraction of an inch taller..... or the rad sits taller in the rad support soldered on the new rad..... a fraction here a fraction there and you suddenly have parts rubbing....

Alex..... if I can't have a look at a cab 11 nose locally I may call on you for some close up pictures.

Meanwhile look at the enclosed old pictures to see how tight clearance where originally.

Bob

PS (Post Scrotum) space is very tight at the filler cap...so much that the tabs on the cap would prevent the rad cap from turning properly..... and notice how the filler neck is actually soldered at a slight angle.
On the cab 12 the filler pipe of the rad is about 1 1/4 inch longer providing additional clearance.
I have a spare cab 11 rad and the same tilted rad pipe is installed. I may try fitting the old original spare cab 11 rad to see if size "really matters".....

[Alex van de Wetering]

Bob,

I am at work so I can't check at the moment, but I think the filler neck on my (cab11) C8 is longer than the one on your cab11 rad(s). I have no idea if my rad is the original one or if it has been replaced with one from a cab 12....nor do I remember if the filler neck is tilted. I will try to have a look tomorrow morning.......tonight is a no-go, as we have already moved to those days of the year that it is dark when you get home from work

Almost sounds like the problem with the filler neck and cap was a known early cab 11 problem, which was solved during production with a longer filler neck???? Than again, it could also be a result of the mods on your truck by the previous owner as you described.

Alex

[Alex van de Wetering]

Bob,

I don't now if these pics help you, but I took these of my C8 a few weeks ago. Filler neck on mine is definately longer.

Alex

[Bob Carriere]

..... what did you do to your truck......give it Viagra ?

Alex yours is definitely longer than mine.... you should be proud....

Sorry got excited...... I measured the cab 11 and cab 12 and the later model is at least 1 1/2 inch longer..... that would solve my problem but implies taking the rad to a proper shop to have it welded...... unless... if it is steel I could cut the pipe and insert and extension piece and mig weld the darn thing or maybe even braze with the gas torches......

something else to think about...... stay tune for developments...!

Thanks for the picture Alex.

Bob

[Bob Carriere]

Your pictures may help me with more than just the filler pipe.

for example the nose piece is held in place by 2 botls on each side....seems the first bolt hole is not used.... and I have seen the same on other cab 11 pictures.....

Can you tell me how much space/clearance you have between the top of the radiator and the top tank of your radiator....?

Will try to take pics of mine from the same angle as you did to compare.

Thanks again for your help.

Bob

[Alex van de Wetering]

Bob,

Sorry for the delay; somehow I missed your post. Attached are some pics that will hopefully help you.
Measurement from top of radiator to the sheet metal is about an inch....measured from the rear of the radiator straight up to the sheet metal.

As you say "size does matter" so I have included another shot of my filler neck to show it's size.

Alex

[Grant Bowker]

Interesting idea. One supplier's technical manual fo plastic pipe can be found at:
http://ipex.ceros.com/municipal/pressurepiping/page/1
So far, all of the sizes for 24" nominal pipe seem just a bit off what we need. From experience, these pipes can usually be worked with tools that would work for woodworking. (although some construction gangs use abrasive cutoff wheels intended for pavement cutting - this stinks, basically melts/burns the plastic)