M38A1 front alignment?

Grant Bowker · #1 01-11-12, 02:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by Casey B

The last is the rear transfer shaft with the park brake assembly attached. It is the real leaker and will need a sleeve.

When putting on speedy sleeves, one set of instructions I received with a sleeve suggested mixing up some epoxy, filling the groove with it and pressing on the sleeve (before the epoxy set). The aim being to provide backing for the sleeve over the groove. I normally (gently) file down any burrs or ridges beside the groove to make for a smoother sleeve install. Just enough to remove the ridge, if I slip and mark the shaft it makes more work cleaning up my shoddy workmanship.

rob love · #2 01-11-12, 06:11

The pinion seal is the whole thing indicated by the green. It is a fairly standard seal used on the smaller Dana differentials, up to the 44 series. Ask for a National 5778 or equivalent.

The roughly welded cone you are talking about is likely the dirt deflector. It's purpose is to prevent sand and dirt from being attracted to the moist seal surface, which would cause rapid wear. They were welded a stamped steel deflector to a cast yoke.....it wasn't always pretty. Sometimes they were simply pressed on, and could work loose. You would then hear a ringing sound when you stop as the slinger would continue to spin on the yoke.

Casey B · #3 01-11-12, 07:01

Thanks Guys. Rob as always you know your stuff.
I will get to work on it straight away. Looks like it is welded in with rust so I'll take it easy while pulling and chiseling it out.
I'll fit the sleeve first then take the burs down..I see how that will make a better fit Grant!

Will ask this do any of you feel the diff pinion shaft shaft in the second picture needs a sleeve?
I know the one for the transfer does.

Thank you fellows Casey

rob love · #4 01-11-12, 13:07

You can get away with that diff flange. We would normally just polish the surface with some extra fine crocus cloth, and if the groove was still there, install the seal to a different depth than before.

Casey B · #5 02-11-12, 04:16

Thanks Rob I'll try it this weekend!

Casey B · #6 03-11-12, 03:21

Okay I managed to get the transfer case rear seal out and there seemed to be a this piece of what looked like a gasket that was between the seal casing and the housing that the seal fits into. Is this a gasket or a piece of the seal itself? pic shows the piece and the housing.

I tried to get a part no off it I can see 2?0WM118

If anyone knows what it should be it will help them source it out...napa lordco etc. Thanks

rob love · #7 03-11-12, 03:43

That is a washer, non-metallic, paper, .040 thick, pn (victor gasket co) 26301. In other words it is a gasket that goes behind the seal to prevent the oil from sneaking around the outer edge of the seal. That was in the days before RTV. Put a slight film of rtv (automotive silicone...Room Temperature Vulcanizing) on the outer edge of your seal before installing and you'll be fine. Throw away the paper washer.

If you really want to be original, you can get some .040 thick gasket paper and cut one, but you really don't need it. Also, it will only work if your seal is a double sided case like what you took out. Most likely your new seal is a more modern single lip and open on the inside. The gasket will likely do nothing on that type of seal.