Chevrolet C8 1940 Cab 11 restoration, The Netherlands

Alex van de Wetering · #1 05-11-12, 23:55

Bob, Mike,

Thanks again for your usefull comments. I am expecting some parts from the "Filling Station" soon, including bushings. These have a slightly larger overall diameter than the ones I have now, so fingers crossed. If these are also too small for the springs eyes on my springs, than I will either have the eyes reshaped or have new bushings custom made.
I didn't know the pins were so hard to find; I did see that Phil Waterman had new ones made!

In the meantime the frame is back in Khaki Green again.
I also picked up two shocks recently (the satin black ones in the pics), which were supposedly rebuilt and than left on the shelf. The action of the arms is certainly better than on the original shocks. Type is slightly different; first five numbers are the same but the number after the dash is different....I presume the difference is within the arms.....my original C8 ones are straight, while the "new" ones have a curve in the arm. I wil probably try and swap the arms.

Alex

p.s. I am convinced that paint suppiers pack some insects in every can of paint.....no bug anywhere, until you have just spraypainted something....

Bob Carriere · #2 06-11-12, 02:34

Hi Alex

At the time I needed the pins I could not find them anywhere....once I paid darn good money to have them made I found Dirk had them cheaper.....

Thsoe shock absorbers were used on a variety of model from early Dodge 4x4 to Chev 2x and 4x4...... the part number may be tied to the specific application....axle design...frame offset ...length of the arm for travel....but I suspect the guts are probably all the same.

Carefull trying to remove the arms...... as many times as I have tried I have not been able to remove one safely..... with lots of heat it can be done BUT you will destroy the oil seal around the shaft of the arm.

Just make sure they travel well and that they are filled up with hydraulic oil.

I also suspect that with the number of spring leaves, rust residue, friction between spring leaves, etc....... with or with out shock absorbers ....the ride is not altered or improved by much. Up until the mid fifties Dodge Power wagon 4x4 pickup trucks did not have rear shocks.... they were optional.

Good luck with the bushings.....

Bob

Alex van de Wetering · #3 09-11-12, 20:30

Bob,

I haven't tried yet, but I thought removing the arms might be the "easy" part with a puller and maybe a little heat.....I was thinking re-assembling the arms would be the real challenge....I mean, a press could do the job, but if you use the press against the shock housing wouldn't that result in problems???

I guess I just have to try!

Alex

cletrac (RIP) · #4 09-11-12, 21:20

On our farm machinery we use a hydraulic puller. It has way more power than a wrench operated one.

Bob Carriere · #5 10-11-12, 04:14

HI Alex

I have never...yet.... taken a shock absorber totally apart for fear of destroying it...... but how else can I learn.....

I am not sure the shaft mechanism would withstand the pressure of a hydraulic press or heavy pounding to instal the arm. and it might not be necessary....... if the arm was heated hot to dull red and the shock assembly cooled in crush ice it should slip on......

My probelm as always been trying to remove tha rm from the shaft. If I was guaranteed to be able to find a repacement seal that would fit the shaft then heating the arm around the shaft/hole area should get it to move.... but were do you find the seal....... need to destroy one to understand if it can be repaired.......

Will add to my "to do" list for the next rainy day....

To Cletrac.......... problem is the arm is small and rounded edges....so fingers from a puller usually slips...... would need the bolt on pulley device to allow the fingers to graps properly...... but there is very little room.....

Does any one out there have an answer..... has anyone removed the shaock arm from a shock absorber....????

Bob

Alex van de Wetering · #6 12-11-12, 18:49

Bob, Dave, no luck with removing the shock arm so far. The "fingers" on my puller are thin enough to fit in between arm and shock housing, but the fingers slip off every time the pressure rises.
I think the Hydraulic puller as Dave mentions could do the job, but it all comes down to the fingers of the puller itself. Some sort of a fork that fits round the axle would be better than two separate fingers, I guess.

Alex

hrpearce · #7 12-11-12, 19:43

Alex you need this atachment for a hydraulic puller for the best chance of sucess. You could try a hose clamp around the botom of the fingers it may work.

Alex van de Wetering · #8 15-04-13, 19:19

Most of the last two weekends went to further disassembly of the C8, now basically leaving the 216 and the frame. Next weekend will hopefullly see some assembly work again!
While disassembling I came across a few details hat I found interesting to share;

The lower fender/arch bar supports are bolted to the frame with four bolts. I was surprised to find that the lower nuts weren't actually nuts, but flat stock with thread tapped into them. This was the case on both the left and right hand side of the truck.
Between the arch bar and the support on the right hand side, I found two shim-type thingies! I guess to level the cab. Anyone seen these before?

Last pic is of the drivers seat. In my truck the drivers seat is placed on top of some wooden blocks, while the co-drivers seat is placed on a slightly angled piece of sheet metal.

Alex

Alex van de Wetering · #9 15-04-13, 19:23

Pics of the wooden blocks. One of the pieces has a (part) number on it.

And the engine number I found while removing all the crap from the side of the block!

Alex