Chevrolet C8 1940 Cab 11 restoration, The Netherlands

Alex van de Wetering · #1 09-11-12, 21:30

Bob,

I haven't tried yet, but I thought removing the arms might be the "easy" part with a puller and maybe a little heat.....I was thinking re-assembling the arms would be the real challenge....I mean, a press could do the job, but if you use the press against the shock housing wouldn't that result in problems???

I guess I just have to try!

Alex

cletrac (RIP) · #2 09-11-12, 22:20

On our farm machinery we use a hydraulic puller. It has way more power than a wrench operated one.

Bob Carriere · #3 10-11-12, 05:14

HI Alex

I have never...yet.... taken a shock absorber totally apart for fear of destroying it...... but how else can I learn.....

I am not sure the shaft mechanism would withstand the pressure of a hydraulic press or heavy pounding to instal the arm. and it might not be necessary....... if the arm was heated hot to dull red and the shock assembly cooled in crush ice it should slip on......

My probelm as always been trying to remove tha rm from the shaft. If I was guaranteed to be able to find a repacement seal that would fit the shaft then heating the arm around the shaft/hole area should get it to move.... but were do you find the seal....... need to destroy one to understand if it can be repaired.......

Will add to my "to do" list for the next rainy day....

To Cletrac.......... problem is the arm is small and rounded edges....so fingers from a puller usually slips...... would need the bolt on pulley device to allow the fingers to graps properly...... but there is very little room.....

Does any one out there have an answer..... has anyone removed the shaock arm from a shock absorber....????

Bob

Alex van de Wetering · #4 12-11-12, 19:49

Bob, Dave, no luck with removing the shock arm so far. The "fingers" on my puller are thin enough to fit in between arm and shock housing, but the fingers slip off every time the pressure rises.
I think the Hydraulic puller as Dave mentions could do the job, but it all comes down to the fingers of the puller itself. Some sort of a fork that fits round the axle would be better than two separate fingers, I guess.

Alex

hrpearce · #5 12-11-12, 20:43

Alex you need this atachment for a hydraulic puller for the best chance of sucess. You could try a hose clamp around the botom of the fingers it may work.

Bob Carriere · #6 13-11-12, 01:44

You need that two piece gear puller to have a good purchase with the fingers of the puller.

I tried that...... I was getting some serious tention on the puller..... and even greased the acme tread to be sure it would not gall up on me..... no luck !!!!!

I am sure heat woulhave made the difference.

Why are they so hard to remove...??

Bob

Alex van de Wetering · #7 18-02-13, 14:20

Well, It's been ages since I posted a progress report, so it's about time. Sadly I wasn't able to spend too much time on the Chev over the past few months. One of my biggest supporters of the project passed away, so as you can imagine the priorities shifted and there were lots of important things to do, none of them involving old rusty trucks.
But, we are back on the project and I will try to post some pictures today and later this week to show what I have been up to.

I moved my attention from the rear springs to the front springs, due to a lack of the proper replacement parts and inspiration. Both springs were disassembled and rust removed with the rotating wire brush and many hours of energy. I fitted new bushings in all springs eyes.I used one of the old rear springs pins and the broken breaker bar to remove the old bushings (after heating the spring eye). The spring pins are about the same size as the spring eye of the front springs, so that worked really well. I installed the new bushings after heating the spring eyes again and using the attaching bolts to force the bushes in with a hammer. The bolts ensured the bushes didn't "implode". One of the brass bushes required some gentle reaming with the Dremel multi-tool...job sorted!

Alex

Alex van de Wetering · #8 15-04-13, 20:19

Most of the last two weekends went to further disassembly of the C8, now basically leaving the 216 and the frame. Next weekend will hopefullly see some assembly work again!
While disassembling I came across a few details hat I found interesting to share;

The lower fender/arch bar supports are bolted to the frame with four bolts. I was surprised to find that the lower nuts weren't actually nuts, but flat stock with thread tapped into them. This was the case on both the left and right hand side of the truck.
Between the arch bar and the support on the right hand side, I found two shim-type thingies! I guess to level the cab. Anyone seen these before?

Last pic is of the drivers seat. In my truck the drivers seat is placed on top of some wooden blocks, while the co-drivers seat is placed on a slightly angled piece of sheet metal.

Alex

Alex van de Wetering · #9 15-04-13, 20:23

Pics of the wooden blocks. One of the pieces has a (part) number on it.

And the engine number I found while removing all the crap from the side of the block!

Alex

Alex van de Wetering · #10 16-05-13, 02:13

Guys,

I am trying to work out the rooting of the brake lines and placement of clips in preparation for making new brake lines. I have fitted the remains of the old lines and the master cylinder in the frame to work things out.

-The front section of brake line is probably about the same for all Chev CMPs. Is this section of brake line only held by the two clips just under the radiator?

-The holes in the side of the frame where the above brake line meets the brake hoses....were these holes originally fitted with grommets?

-The rear brake line going from the master cylinder to the right rear section of the frame.
My brake line was cut just behind the cab and one clip remained, which is positioned on the inside of the rear cab support (see picture). Does anyone have a pic of the original rooting of this section of brake line? Is it just a straight line from this clip to just in front of the rear shock absorber...than curving to the bracket which secures it to the rear brake hose....all without clips?

what about the electrical wires running to the rear lights (only right hand side on my truck)??? is this just loosely positioned on the inside of the frame rails or held on with clips???

Comments would be very much appreciated!

By the way, I am still looking for a "brake tee"..."connector"....."junction block"...Chevrolet #596883, please see my thread in the for sale section:

http://mapleleafup.net/forums/showthread.php?t=20272

Alex

Alex

Bob Carriere · #11 16-05-13, 05:16

Hi Alex

I will share my experience based on the C15a which has some application...others can chip in with more C* specific experience.

-The front section of brake line is probably about the same for all Chev CMPs. Is this section of brake line only held by the two clips just under the radiator?

**** Your set up on the dront corss memebr is correct and probably the only section simialr to a C15a

-The holes in the side of the frame where the above brake line meets the brake hoses....were these holes originally fitted with grommets?

****On the the early C15a the steel line stops at the hole in the frame. That hole is filled by the end of the flexible brake line and held in place by a U shape spring clip. The steel brake line is flared and screws in to the end of the flex line. On the outside of the frame, the flex line goes directly to the wheel cylinder..... that means finding a rubber flex line about 18 inches long.... Wagner/Raybestos still makes them and I can dig up the number for you.

-The rear brake line going from the master cylinder to the right rear section of the frame.

*** correct brake lines and wiring are all on the RH side. The line should go to the rear frame and stop about even with the rear axle. The end of the line connects to a strap steel bracket coming form the frake and extending about 8 inches towards the gear housing of the rear axle. To that bracket a simialr but shorter flex line is held in place with a U shape clip. So the steel flared line screws into the end of the rubber line and the flex line reaches down to a 3 way block on the rear axle....brass block usually held in place by a bolt for the rear axle cover. The you have solid steel lines snaking on top of the axle housing to each wheel cylinders.

Now for the clipping or wiring and lines. Phil Waterman will chip in here with his near fire due to loose wiring.

Regardless pf where or how many clips they had to hold the wiring and brake lines in place ***** make sure you instal as many as is requried on your truck to keep everything from rubbing, wearing and potentially start a fire or cause you to loose all braking capacity.

On the C15a the brake lines are runned inside and through cross members and is it, to me anyways, impossible to run one solid line from the master cylinder to the rear axle... you need to have a union joint mid way. I was able to obtain NOS felt gromlets from Brian Ashbury.... my stainless steel brake lines have rubber hose cladding over any area that might rub on a cross member. Now is the time to fiddle with these parts...once the body goes down it becomes a nightmare.

My brake line was cut just behind the cab and one clip remained, which is positioned on the inside of the rear cab support (see picture). Does anyone have a pic of the original rooting of this section of brake line? Is it just a straight line from this clip to just in front of the rear shock absorber...than curving to the bracket which secures it to the rear brake hose....all without clips?.... Yes I think so but we nwo better now!!!

Hope you are still enjoying your project.

Bob

PS looking for some pictures for you