2012 at the Hammond Barn

[RHClarke]

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

Hi Very impressed with the roof arms, how did you make the brass rollers? I've got a whole new hatch for my HUP and those little arms are the last thing I need to fabricate.Cheers Phil

Hi Phil,

There is a small metal working/welding shop in a little town called Embrun, which is just down the road from Bob's ranch. The owner is an elderly gentleman with remarkable skills, which were no doubt honed from decades of plying his trade. He made up the brass ball on a lathe and turned the rivet to affix the ball to the arm (which I fabbed up).

Please let me know if you have any spare hatch hardware. I am in need of the interior handles. I think I can replace the springs, footman loops, chains and straps with commercially available items.

Could you check a few items for me? I need photos of the arms on your hatch so that I can replicate the angle of the bushings when I weld them in next week. A shot from the interior showing the holes in the bushings and how they align with the pivot arms would be appreciated. As well, a photo of the thumb screws that the springs attach to would also be great. Now that I think of it, I will be visiting your website to see if they already exist. If not, could you fix me up with the photos?

[Phil Waterman]

Hi

There are some photos on my site already look on http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/Posting.html and you will see a listing of photos. I have drawings of the center hold bracket I'l find and post along with some better photos related to your questions.

Cheers Phil

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Rob

Found the hatch hardware drawings I had them posted on my web site after all but one of the links was broken, now fixed.



Here are the links to all three drawings:
Drawing 1 http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/H..._Paper%201.htm
Drawing 2 http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/H..._Paper%201.htm
Drawing 3 http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/H..._Paper%201.htm

Details on your questions to follow.

Cheers Phil

[Phil Waterman]

Originally Posted by RHClarke

Hi Phil,...

....
Please let me know if you have any spare hatch hardware. I am in need of the interior handles. I think I can replace the springs, footman loops, chains and straps with commercially available items.

Could you check a few items for me? I need photos of the arms on your hatch so that I can replicate the angle of the bushings when I weld them in next week. A shot from the interior showing the holes in the bushings and how they align with the pivot arms would be appreciated. As well, a photo of the thumb screws that the springs attach to would also be great. Now that I think of it, I will be visiting your website to see if they already exist. If not, could you fix me up with the photos?

Hi Rob

Sorry I only have the one set of hardware for the hatch which I will be shifting over from the old hatch to the new hatch.

Took some pictures today to try and answer your questions above and posted them to my web site they're on http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/Posting.html page about half way down the page. Did it that way because of the MLU size limitation. Let me know if you need more pictures or ones taken from a different angle.

Cheers Phil

[RHClarke]

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

Hi Rob Sorry I only have the one set of hardware for the hatch which I will be shifting over from the old hatch to the new hatch. Took some pictures today to try and answer your questions above and posted them to my web site they're on http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/Posting.html page about half way down the page. Did it that way because of the MLU size limitation. Let me know if you need more pictures or ones taken from a different angle.
Cheers Phil

Phil, the shots on your website are the cat's pajamas! Thanks for the very useful photos. By the way, if you do not have plans for your old hatch, I could put it to good use.

Rob

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Rob

As I remove and replace parts that original I mark which vehicle they are off and store them away in the loft of the barn. For future use as templates and to answer questions. Got things like bumpers, door skins, etc.

I had a whole new hatch fabricated at a local sheet metal shop, I'll try and find the drawings. They are two computers back so I'll need to find the hard copies. They will probably be of more use than my bent hatch anyway.

Glad the photos are of help.

Cheers Phil

[Bob Carriere]

To follow up on the previous posting about last weekend from Rob.

Just want to share my recent experience blasting away !!!!

I used TSC coarse black grit of some sort and crushed glass from Princess Auto 20-30 grit.

The coarse crushed glass outperformed the black TSC grit almost 50% better,

On the same rusted front fender it cleaned faster..... removed deep pits with fewer passes........ generated less dust ......and covered a greater area by at least 30%..... I also suspect that the crushed glass is less likely to clump up with humidity than the dusty TSC black stuff.

I will resume this weekend and will exhaust my TSC black stuff but will not buy it again.

Bob C.

[RHClarke]

I had some time on my hands today, so I went to the barn to put a few things away (more on that later) and to measure some hatch hardware for Grant.

There is a flat metal ring that is mounted on the inside of the cab by 16 flat head slotted stove bolts of varying lengths. These bolts pierce the inner ring, the roof, the wooden spacer and finally the outside flange on the steel hatch ring. The bolts are affixed to the outside ring by washers and nuts. The holes on the passenger side of the ring are countersunk so that the screw heads do not pose too much of a danger to tall passengers.

The inner metal ring is composed of three sections of steel that have been bent and welded together in a ring (for diameter see Phil Waterman's excellent website). The metal ring is approximately 24mm wide and is of the same gauge as the outer ring flange.


Photos:

1- Inside hatch ring
2- Countersunk holes (mind the blurry photo)
3- Width of inner hatch ring metal
4- Do you know what these are for?

[Grant Bowker]

Thank you Rob. For ease of manufacture I may go to 4 segments, once welded and dressed the joints won't show and I will be able to work from a smaller sheet. I hadn't thought to ask about the countersunk holes, but it makes sense.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Rob

Do you have the wood spacer or you need more dimensions? I used rubber roof membrane as a gasket under the wood to seal it to the roof gooey stuff to work with but seals nicely. Had to replace all the bolts on mine because they had rusted in the wood and lost a lot of their thickness. Ended up having to buy all the bolts long and then cut the length to fit.

Cheers Phil