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#1
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Try this instead for the rear hub nuts... it's the correct tool.
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Film maker 42 FGT No8 (Aust) remains 42 FGT No9 (Aust) 42 F15 Keith Webb Macleod, Victoria Australia Also Canadian Military Pattern Vehicles group on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/canadianmilitarypattern |
#2
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![]() ![]() Howard had a box full in the SFOS sale, wonder who bought them. I have handles to suit if you need.
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Film maker 42 FGT No8 (Aust) remains 42 FGT No9 (Aust) 42 F15 Keith Webb Macleod, Victoria Australia Also Canadian Military Pattern Vehicles group on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/canadianmilitarypattern |
#3
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You and me need to talk. I'll bring my wallet.
socket, handle, ID tags, YOT DVDs....hmm what else? Does that socket fit the front and rear hubs? ( is that someone yelling their the same size ya drongo? ) Richard, cheers for the engine ID, what and where should I look for on the engine in regards to serial numbers or such that denotes a 4D?
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Blitz books. |
#4
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Not sure on that Ryan, I am not much of a Ford man, last time I worked on Major engines was about 40 years ago. As it is painted yellow, I am wondering if it has come out of a digger or some other plant. The 4D was a popular power plant for all sorts of machinery.
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Richard 1943 Bedford QLD lorry - 1941 BSA WM20 m/cycle - 1943 Daimler Scout Car Mk2 Member of MVT, IMPS, MVG of NSW, KVE and AMVCS KVE President & KVE News Editor |
#5
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No worries Richard, I'll begin trolling the net, well, until I've put my 3 yr old to bed....oh, that's now. Then later it is!
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Blitz books. |
#6
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Just copied this off another forum, http://www.dieselenginetrader.com/di...&threadid=2173 it should give you some background info; Quote:
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Richard 1943 Bedford QLD lorry - 1941 BSA WM20 m/cycle - 1943 Daimler Scout Car Mk2 Member of MVT, IMPS, MVG of NSW, KVE and AMVCS KVE President & KVE News Editor Last edited by Richard Farrant; 29-12-12 at 23:18. Reason: source of quote added, |
#7
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The front hub nut is 2" hexagonal so you either need a big shifter or a 2" socket. Probably cheaper to buy a socket (eg. Kingchrome $25 at Bursons) and you'll get some use out of it on the sump plug which is also 2".
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One of the original Australian CMP hunters. Last edited by Howard; 11-01-13 at 08:52. Reason: Repair quote field |
#8
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Cheers,
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F15-A 1942 Battery Staff Jacques Reed |
#9
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I think the hex socket of yours is the front size, isn't it?
Rear should be octagonal, and moderately larger. No idea of exact size, because I never need to source a socket. I have the original Ford part.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
#10
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Duh! Sorry, correction. Front hub socket shown. Rear one is the big one!
Cheers
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F15-A 1942 Battery Staff Jacques Reed |
#11
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While on the subject of special axle nut sockets I thought it might be worth mentioning a socket that comes in handy on the wheel nuts that hold the split rims together. Was going to post it in the special tools section but is relevant here also.
I have found a 3/4" drive 28mm deep impact socket and a breaker bar will remove any of those nuts I have ever come across. if you have a 3/4" drive "windy hammer" all the better. You need a deep socket of course for the longer studs used to start the wheel halves drawing together. The nuts are nominally 1-1/8" AF but a 28mm socket is just a few thou smaller. 1.102" as against 1.125" nominal size. There is still plenty of clearance in the socket for paint and rust buildup to get the socket on. It probably is easier on flanks of the nut too with the shorter distance across the flats. My original wheel spanner is very sloppy on those nuts so I never use it. Cheers
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F15-A 1942 Battery Staff Jacques Reed |
#12
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Thank you to all three of you gentlemen for helping me out here. I shall soon be getting back to the blitz once I get through a rather large pile of wood that needs cutting and storing.
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Blitz books. |
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