Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

Private_collector · #1 30-12-12, 11:01

Pintle Parts 1.jpg
Yesterday I started dismantling the pintle assembly, to assess the damage and start considering plan for rebuild. The poor state of the spring leaves was immediately obvious, as they were 'fanning' out from each other, with a good 1/8" of rust scale between any two leaves. The nuts on the leaf retaining brackets were very badly corroded, and had to be removed by slicing down with the cut-off wheel & grinder. The brackets have had so much force applied by the expanding rust, that the bolt ends were no longer parallel, and now the threads were moderately damaged from the grinder. This was looking like it would be a REAL big headache to remedy.

On the up side, while the pintle itself was seized, I have another which is working fine and has no visible corrosion or other damage. Then I had a second bit of good luck! While looking for my other two rear spring brackets, I found a second pintle spring set that I had forgotten about.

It's in great shape, and will only require sand blasting prior to painting.

Now, every episode of good luck seems to be accompanied by a corresponding and equally significant piece of BAD luck, so I wasn't entirely surprised when I located the spring brackets I was after, only to find that one of the set did not belong.

Two spring brackets are already finished and ready to install (when I get bolts. Once again, bloody public holidays). Reason for this is simply because I wanted to have a pair available for the engineers to temporarily attach for checking cross member location. They were painted and could have remained on the chassis, if they hadn't managed to spray white paint all over them. Anyhoo........
Correct Bracket.jpg
This is the type of brackets I should have. Three of the 4 are this type.
Incorrect Bracket.jpg
And here's the one which isn't right! If it were used, the spring height would be different, due to the reduced amount that the bracket hangs below the chassis. Damn it! Guess I start making phone calls tomorrow, searching for a replacement bracket.

Beware the 'Easy' Job

ADDIT: Yep, Macs have the required brake block! I'll order it tomorrow, once I decide what else to order, since they charge the same shipping, whether I order a full $30 or just the $13 for the brake part!

Private_collector · #2 30-12-12, 11:06

Rear Lights with new lenses.jpg
The rear light sets are now finished, with replacement lenses used on the 'tail' lights. Earthing test to follow through the week.

CWO (ret) Gilles Aubé · #3 30-12-12, 18:35

Hello Tony, in one of the picture you show a brake line of brass color.
Hope it is not made of brass because in many areas brass tubing is not allow on brake line because it is to fragile.
In any event have a happy new year, and continued your good report.

Alex Blair (RIP) · #4 30-12-12, 19:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by CWO (ret) Gilles Aubé

Hello Tony, in one of the picture you show a brake line of brass color.
Hope it is not made of brass because in many areas brass tubing is not allow on brake line because it is to fragile.
In any event have a happy new year, and continued your good report.

I believe the picture shows copper tubing...
The new brake line are much better now than the old steel lines..More resistant to rust..
Brass tubing would never take the pressure for a long live brake line.
Here is the latest.\

The Move To Copper-Nickel Tubing

Copper had been proved since the early days to have many good attributes. It was easy to bend and had very high corrosion resistance, but there was concern about its low corrosion-fatigue strength. When copper-nickel was introduced, it displayed corrosion resistance similar to copper, higher general strength and better fatigue strength. Good formability allows ease of flaring and bending, and although the metal cost is greater than that of steel alternatives, copper-nickel is very attractive in view of its extra life, trouble-free installation and safety/reliability characteristics.
Properties of Copper-Nickel Brake Tubing

The copper-nickel alloy used for brake tubing typically contains 10% nickel, with iron and manganese additions of 1.4% and 0.8% respectively. The product conforms to ASTM B466 (American Society for Testing and Materials), which specifies dimensions, tensile strength and yield strength. Formability and internal cleanliness conform to specifications SAE J527, ASTM A254 and SMMT C5B (Society of Motor Manufacturers and Traders). Also, the alloy meets the requirements for pressure containment, fabrication and corrosion resistance for ISO 4038 (International Standards Organization) and SAE J1047.

Private_collector · #5 30-12-12, 20:55

Guys,

My brake lines are all made of steel. I dont recall if supplier said it was coated with anything, but it may be.

I suspect the photo conditions may have caused the appearance of brass. It's the last brake line photo you were reffering to?

T Creighton · #6 31-12-12, 20:41

Hi Tony,
Happy New Year, may your progress continue unabated.
I think you will find that you need another one of the less deep brackets.
The ones that you have three of go in the front and the other ones at the rear.
If you are lucky they will have numbers stamped on them.
CO1Q 5785 in the front of the axle and CO1Q 5775 at the rear.
Regards,
Terry

Jacques Reed · #7 31-12-12, 23:03

Hi Tony,

And a Happy New Year to you. I will check my drum of chassis parts from a truck I "converted to components" a few years ago. I remember taking off those hangers from the chassis. For some reason they were bolted on with odd Whitworth bolts which makes me think that chassis was assembled from parts post war. If it is the same as what you need it's yours.

Copper colured steel tubing- I had the same experience with bundy tubing I purchased recently. I queried the supplier that it was definitely bundy tubing. The new manufactured stuff seems to have more of a copper patina than the older bundy tubing. It is copper plated steel rolled and welded up anyway so it stands to have some copper colouration I suppose.

Cheers

ozm29c · #8 31-12-12, 23:33

Fellows,
For info I have attached the current PBR fact sheet on Bundy tubing.
Cheers
John W.

Private_collector · #9 01-01-13, 11:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by ozm29c

Fellows,
For info I have attached the current PBR fact sheet on Bundy tubing.
Cheers
John W.

Thanks mate, I'll keep that info sheet for reference.

T.

Private_collector · #10 03-01-13, 11:20

I've been checking through my manuals and photos, but cannot find a good photo of the points where the front and rear brake lines attach to chassis at the point where the flexible brake hoses start. I have bought more of the bundy tube, and was hoping to form the major lines this weekend. Problem is that I dont know where they end, or for that matter, what sort of bracket was used at the junction of metal lines to flexible brake hose, either front or rear. If anyone can point me to a diagram in Ford manual or parts books, I would be very grateful.

The brake line pieces I made last weekend are now with the local hydraulic shop, and I will pick them up tomorrow. When the larger pieces are formed they will be going to the same place for double flaring.

Jacques Reed · #11 03-01-13, 20:31

Hi Tony,

Will grab a few photos later today of the original brackets you are enquiring about and post them here. Up early due to a hot night here in Melbourne.

Cheers,

Hanno Spoelstra · #12 04-01-13, 00:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by Private_collector

I've been checking through my manuals and photos, but cannot find a good photo of the points where the front and rear brake lines attach to chassis at the point where the flexible brake hoses start. I have bought more of the bundy tube, and was hoping to form the major lines this weekend. Problem is that I dont know where they end, or for that matter, what sort of bracket was used at the junction of metal lines to flexible brake hose, either front or rear. If anyone can point me to a diagram in Ford manual or parts books, I would be very grateful.

Tony,

Maybe my thread F15A brake lines is of some help?

Hanno

Private_collector · #13 01-01-13, 09:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by T Creighton

I think you will find that you need another one of the less deep brackets.
The ones that you have three of go in the front and the other ones at the rear.

Right you are, Terry!

I would never have guessed there were differences between rear brackets. Even the manual, which does give different numbers (not that I had initially looked), does not give sufficient detailed view for 'the penny to drop'.

As I said to Jacques this morning, God Bless Maple Leaf Up! Without members of which, my truck would be considerably more difficut to get finished.

Thanks for your advice. Always welcomed