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  #1  
Old 30-12-12, 15:28
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Engine Lift and Leveler Bars

Hi Jacques

Like your lifting attachment, notice that you have marked which hole to use for lifting what. How do you find the rolling lifts works for reaching into F15As engine compartment to get the engine?

I've marked my engine leveler the same way, so I know where to drive the lift screw attachment leveling point for the Chevy engine alone or with transmission. Recently I added the marks for a big Ford Flathead V8 engine.

Cheers Phil
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  #2  
Old 30-12-12, 21:01
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Default Re: engine lift and leveler bar

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Waterman View Post
How do you find the rolling lifts works for reaching into F15As engine compartment to get the engine?
Cheers Phil
Hi Phil,

It works well. The engine crane is an older one from the nineties, non-foldable, with longer extendable legs and a longer than average extendable jib so it reaches in fine.

Most of the newer ones on the market have folding legs and a shorter jib to take up less space. I am not sure that they would have adequate outreach. Luckily I did not sell it for a newer one even though it has annoyed me for years taking up a lot of floor space. Anyway it gave me a good excuse to put up a second shed for it, and other bulky items!

Cheers, and a happy New Year to all MLU Forum members!
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  #3  
Old 10-01-13, 00:33
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Engine Rotisserie

Hi All

Got another restoration tool to add to the collection. I have never liked the common engine rotisserie because they generally just bolt up to one end of the engine which puts a lot of load on just 4 bolts going into the cast iron.

Particularly with the Chevy 6 that's a lot of length and a lot of weight. See picture of 261 engine on stand upside down.

Well when I started working with a Flat Head engine which while shorter, are heavier in this particular case, decided it was time to fully support both ends of the engine. The second photos shows what I came up with an adjustable front support, now the engine rotates very easily as it does not have the bending load on the single pipe swivel used in the standard commercial unit.

One afternoons work and now I wonder why didn't do it earlier. The only real time consuming part was making front adjustable in height because the commercial units actually have a 6-7 degree up angle in the swivel to compensate for the bending force when the engine is bolted on. So to take a 6 cylinder or a V8 you need to be able to raise/lower the front swivel so that it is line with the rear at the correct length.



Cheers Phil
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File Type: jpg w49 Linc SC 1-5&7-13 013.jpg (46.6 KB, 78 views)
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  #4  
Old 10-01-13, 05:42
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Default Engine rotisserie- Another variation on the theme

Here's another one.

I really get annoyed when I see pre 1949 Ford Flatheads on Ebay for sale being held only by the bellhousing in a modern engine holder. That's a real good way to turn a great engine into a boat mooring anchor.

I had this made up a few years back. Again, apologies to the Ford CMP Maintenance Manual for borrowing their ideas.

It worked well. The balance point was good so that you did not need a gorilla to rotate it.

Only trap if you fabricate one yourself is to offset the left pivot pipe about 1" further back from the front than the one on the right. This is because the left cylinder banks is about 1" further forward than the right bank. I have the exact amount written down somewhere but cannot seem to put my finger on it. No doubt that info is out there somewhere on the net.

This offset is noticeable where I bolted the brackets together for storage.

Cheers!
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File Type: jpg IMG_4720.jpg (37.9 KB, 61 views)
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  #5  
Old 10-01-13, 08:07
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hrpearce hrpearce is offline
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Default

If you are changing your own tyres a good beed breaker is necessary.
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  #6  
Old 10-01-13, 08:40
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Private_collector Private_collector is offline
Tony Baker
 
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Default Bearing cup or seal installer.

Bearing cup installer.
PA300451.jpg PA300452.jpg
Adjust the threaded rod to the start length, then turn the handle to wind the cup or seal into place. I have made two sizes of drivers. These were used effectively on rear hub bearing cups and the seals in axle tubes. Thats why the extra long threaded rod.

These photos were taken before I welded all the pieces together.
PA300447.jpg PA300448.jpg PA300449.jpg

Endless variations on the theme are possible. Not sure if I stole this idea from the manual or just had a vision
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  #7  
Old 10-01-13, 14:51
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Engine rotisserie- Another variation on the theme - thats good

Hi Jacques

I really like that one, makes a huge amount of sense for the flat head design. Now some of the manual comments about standing the engine on end to remove the pistons make real senses.

Sure provides the best access to the different parts of the flat head.

This must be the type of unit Ford intended.

Cheers Phil
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  #8  
Old 10-01-13, 23:31
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Jacques you are right the lateral axis Rotisserie is the way to go on flat heads

Hi Jacques

I liked your lateral axis rotisserie so much this morning I went out and made up the attachment plates, thanks for the tip about the off set.

Cheers Phil
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File Type: jpg w 49 Linc SC 1-10-13 011.jpg (52.9 KB, 62 views)
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