Painting & Preparation

Private_collector · #1 04-01-13, 14:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nathan Clark

very good, you answered all my concerns. One last thing, do you have any recommendations on brands to use and ones to steer clear from?

Nathan,

Thats where I wont be of much help, Im afraid.

I was a spraypainter many years ago, but have only really had recent evperience with one type of paint, Protec Barrier, in a pre mixed color, camoflage green. It would not be an authentic color for your carrier.

Broadening back to Protec brand, I am impressed with the performance of this paint, or at least the "Barrier" variant. Well, take a look at post no. 96 on this page: http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...t=15575&page=4

I have used spies hecker and glasurit (? spelling) brands in the distant past. Both are two component paints (you add hardener) and are very good brands, but, and theres always a but, they are not easy to spray. So, I guess thats a long way of saying my experience is somewhat limited. Others may be able to offer greater insight to other brands.

Personally, I would only use a two pack type of paint, for its added durability, resistance to fuel and lubricants, and quick drying. I must add that other brand drying time may vary from my experience with the Barrier from Protec, though as a rule of thumb, any of the two pack paints will dry much quicker than enamels. I wouldnt even consider using acrylic paint. Not very durable, that stuff. Easily damaged and it 'sinks back', meaning as the solvents dry over a period of days to weeks, any surface imperfections will become more evident, even on flat paints.

Find a good and friendly local automotive paint shop, then tell them what you are restoring. When they know exactly what you need your paint to do (and look like) they will be your best source of information & advice. Never be afraid to ask questions, even of you think it may be a dumb question. It may be more important than you first think.

RichardT10829 · #2 04-01-13, 20:55

As above for prep but paint wise I use cromadex paints and use their 222 fast air drying stuff I buy the thinners from them with the paint, they can colour match too... I use 10% matt finish they use all the BS codes and RAL codes too, it's a good hard wearing paint used by the British forces even now ! Two pack solids are getting harder to get here in the UK colours are limited.... As with all paints, but especially two pack make sure you wear a respirator up to the job, eye protection and coveralls ! That goes for your etch primers too.... Nasty stuff

RichardT10829 · #3 04-01-13, 21:03

Also forgot to say if you go cellulose make sure you check it won't react with your primer.... You may need to put a stopper on top of the primer if you find it will react with your base coat. Also sorry about this...... Don't burn your money on high quality finish thinners for military vehicles.... Standard thinners will suffice ;-)

Private_collector · #4 05-01-13, 00:05

Richard speaks truth! This is one of those rare times when it's not important to buy the most expensive materials. Do get a high quality mask, and make sure you have a good in-line water trap on the air hose. If water comes through the line, you are basically blasting water into your finish. It will then reappear as raised spots, at some later date, and rust will start to form on the metal beneath.

Dont waste money on an expensive spray gun either. I use a SupaCheap Auto gravity feed gun that was less than $100, possibly much less, I dont remember. It serves me well, is very adjustable, and provided I clean it well after use, should see me through my restoration. If it does start yo play up, it will go into the bin, and I buy another one. Don't really think that will happen.