Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Tony Wheeler]

As can be seen from the pics the wrap around clip is made from a 3" length of 5/8" strap (appears to be 16 gauge) with holes stamped either end for the 1/4" bolt.

The other clip is 1 1/8" long, which would seem to confirm it as p/n 2081. This part may be readily available (although it's rather less suitable IMO and the hole is way oversize).

Anyway I trust that's of some help Jacques. BTW my back seems to be on the mend at last (touch wood!) so I'll give you a ring to arrange a blitz day soon if you're up for it.

Cheers,
Tony

[Tony Wheeler]

Phil Waterman covers this topic with the relevant service bulletins here: http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.c...ailphotos.html

[Phil Waterman]

Originally Posted by Tony Wheeler

Phil Waterman covers this topic with the relevant service bulletins here: http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.c...ailphotos.html

Hi Tony

The service bulletins are Chevrolet CMP, but they may also have been in response to a general problem. The Chevy early Pat 13 had a hard brake line running around the front of the truck basically under the radiator mount and it is virtually impossible to work on with the engine in place. The later routing greatly simplified repair. In that light it might also have been an issue on Fords.

Cheers Phil

[Jacques Reed]

Originally Posted by Tony Wheeler

As can be seen from the pics the wrap around clip is made from a 3" length of 5/8" strap (appears to be 16 gauge) with holes stamped either end for the 1/4" bolt.

The other clip is 1 1/8" long, which would seem to confirm it as p/n 2081. This part may be readily available (although it's rather less suitable IMO and the hole is way oversize).

Anyway I trust that's of some help Jacques. BTW my back seems to be on the mend at last (touch wood!) so I'll give you a ring to arrange a blitz day soon if you're up for it.

Cheers,
Tony

Hi Tony,

Many thanks for that info and photo. You've been a great help again.
Was just thinking recently I better contact you in the New near too to have a Blitz day at your place and return that long overdue battery holder to the "library". Hope the fine isn't large!
Least it is now dry for moving Blitzes in paddocks. Hard to believe just two months ago how wet it was.
Glad to hear the back is on the mend and look forward in the next few weeks to catching up.

[Private_collector]

Got the rear springs off my parts donor truck on Sunday. While each set had the overrider leaves, they weren't directly bolted to the main stack. That truck didn't have the overrider bump brackets when I bought it, but I think there is a full set amongst the parts that came with the truck being restored. The resto. truck does not have the holes drilled in the chassis, to take the brackets. Not counting the overrider, the main leaf set contains 10 leaves per side. There are 4 each in the other stacks. The U bolts and nuts came undone (eventually) without damage, but as we have a springworks in town, I hope to buy a new set for the final reassembly. The shackle pins/bolts were in a surprisingly good condition. I could probably have use some or all of these again, but you can't beat brand new. A full set of those, and locking pins are en route from USA.

Two packets of wiring clips arrived yesterday. These were to replace the previously bought ones, which of course, were immediately discovered once the order was placed for the second time. Total number of clips on hand is now approx 42! I should have sufficient quantity to place a clip every 3 inches, and still run the wiring around the truck a dozen times. The clips have a pair of nasty little teeth on the under side. I'm thinking of the best way to install these without scratching the paint badly. I have a cunning plan!

If I get the time today, I will call Vintage Wiring down south, to order a new wiring loom. They carry a pattern for F60S, but as mine is now a bit more 'S' than it once was, we should be able to get correct length for rear wiring, by agreeing on a reference point that I can then measure aft from. Also want them to include provision for a second brake light. I know it originally had just the one, but having one on each side might offer a little more safety from being rear ended. There's a lot of moron drivers out there. I don't want them writing off their car by scratching the paint off my pintle.

[Private_collector]

New wiring harness ordered late last week. You know when you speak to someone, maybe even just a brief conversation, and you almost instantly get the impression that here is somebody that knows their stuff? That's the feeling I got from the fellow at Vintage Wiring Harness, in Victoria: http://www.vinwire.com.au/index.htm I have no doubt that I will be happy with their product.

I was reviewing some past photos showing the rear axle I rebuilt, showing it when I first got it home, and with the springs still attached. There are definately more leaves to the main spring stacks, and the overriders are different to those I removed from parts vehicle last weekend. The bad news is that the ones I know to be correct, have been entirely disassembled some time ago. I'll look them over today, but my first thoughts are that these will be the ones I end up using. Going to be a bugger of a job. Each leaf will need to be cleaned, blasted and painted individually.

Should have had the last two rear spring hangers and swings painted yesterday, but paint shop failed to order the 4L can of paint I asked for prior in late December. Bet that doesn't happen again in the future!

[Private_collector]

Does anyone have any practical experience in successfully seperating the two main panels of the roof assembly on a cab13?

I have three roof assemblies. One is quite good, and it will be kept intact for my vehicle. The other two are less usefull. One has a good upper panel, the other one is damaged and not economically repairable. My thoughts are to remove the roof panel from one, without trying to salvage rear lower part, and graft it to the other ones lower panel, which can be repaired.

If the spot welds are able to be seen, I can drill them out, but I don't think it will be that straight forward. Also, the L shaped stiffening plate at rear upper corner of side window opening could complicate things considerably.

Has this been done in the past, and if so, what is the procedure for the job?

Photos to follow tonight, I hope.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Tony

The shore answer is yes it has been done, but now I've got to remember how I did it or find the photos.

But to be sure we're talking about the same thing, you are asking about removing the rear skin of the standard Pat 13 cab assembly correct? Purpose to make up one good roof from two or three donors?

On my Pat 13 C60S 1942 the rear of the cab had rusted out all the way around where it was backed by the lower angle iron that forms the bolting surface. So I removed it and replaced it with new sheet metal. As I remember it I did it as you suggest by drilling out all the spot welds, then using air chisel with the longest flattest blade slide between the layers.

But as I said I may have photos. I'll look.

Cheers Phil

[Private_collector]

But first,
Cab roof - sunshine 1.jpg
Thanks Phil. You are correct. It's 'one for the price of 2' sort of thing. I took a good look at the one with best roof profile, and it is the one that will become the Sunshine Roof. The second roof is a suitable donor for rear window frame and possibly bugger-all else. I also have a third roof. It is OK to use as is, once cleaned up and panelbeaten a little, but that can wait for another time. I'm more interested in getting the hole cut through for the sunshine roof to go away for blasting, welding, etc.. I have a couple of metres of canvas on order. Should get it this week. Wasn't feeling best last weekend, so I sat down and did a lube job on the sewing machine I bought some weeks ago.
rear spring pitch coated 1.jpg
This morning (and afternoon) I did a job I have been avoiding for a long time. Rear springs. I have a good set of rear ones without overriders, from the 'organ donor'. All the clamps are intact. The main bolts are in good shape. The leaves are not rusted. Unfortunately the reason they are not rusted is because of an awful lot of pitch between all the leaves. Mmmmmm, pitch/tar/whatever........wat ho! Oh my god! Disgusting stuff to remove. Here's the steps:

Scrape all the edges and grooves with an old chisel.
Soak everything with petrol and remove what you can get at.
Go beserk with twisted wire cup on grinder. Spear several wire strands into legs etc...
Discover heaps of pitch still in grooves. Swear loudly and repeatedly.
Re-soak with petrol, and scrub grooves with wire brush.
Use compressed-air to clean MORE pitch from grooves, as it sprays everywhere. Clean black muck off hands.
Re-re-soak with petrol and remove yet more muck. Repeat previous step (and this one) x 3 times.
rub over with brillo pad and Marine-Clean (POR15) 5:1 mix.
Dry thoroughly with compressed-air and throw em in the car for blasting during the week.
Rear spring cleaned 1.jpg
Covered the bushes with an old pin in each side, and copious wraps of gaffer tape to stop grit getting in and damaging.

6 Hours for the pair. Couldn't bring myself to seperate the leaves. All the leaf clamps are 'Ford' stamped too!!
rear spring trial fit 1.jpg
Before I cleaned the springs, I wanted to make sure they would actually fit the truck. Not in great shape this weeekend either, so I certainly wasn't gonna waste hours on something that won't work. I attached a 'should now be painted' (Grrrr) back hanger and swing. Presto. Great fit. The new shackle pins and lock bolts should be here by the end of the week, springs should be blasted and back by Friday, and paint WILL BE ready for me to have by then too. Provided I actually feel up to truck work next weekend, the only thing left to be done by end of next weekend, is the U bolts blasting and running a die down the threads,