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#1
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Hi,
Sorry i didnt realise that there was a limit on the number of pictures per post, so here are the others. Regards, Jonathan |
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#2
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Yes the windscreen frame does bolt in with the door hinges and two small bolts in the centre.
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Robert Pearce. |
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#3
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Jonathan,
I don't have a HUP to help out with the measurements, but I'm sure you will find the help you need here. I can tell you the windscreen frame is detachable and the same as on other Chevrolet CMPs (quite possibly Ford too). It might be worth looking for CMP body parts as a man with your skills would be able to turn a couple of cab doors into a HUP body door?!? You can use the double curvature back section of a regular CMP Cab 13 roof as the rear roof section on your HUP body. I must commend you for taking up this challenge. Quite a few HUP bodies were cut down and reconstructed later, but to date I have not seen a project which also includes reversal of a chassis extension plus engine transplant. ![]() Hanno
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Regards, Hanno -------------------------- |
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#4
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Hanno,
I have to admit that it is quite a challenge but i shall enjoy it. I need dimensions but i suppose that if i can find someone in the Uk with one that i can measure it will be easier. Are there any good books specifically on CMP's out there? i have looked for but cant find any, the ones i have found only give a passing reference, not detailed information. Spares, well in the UK there dosn't seem to be any, or at least not on the net. If there is anyone out there with two front seats or anything else that might be of use, please contact me. Regards, Jonathan |
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#5
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The weather in Wales Uk is rain, rain and wind so more time for me in the workshop. I had to go and find some steel channel to remake the floor struts in the cab, so as the next day was Sunday and i was off to a militaria show i decided to have a look at the drivers side floorpanel, that holds the excelerator pedal. As you can see by the pictures, who ever tried to weld a repair patch in didnt, have much success. As for the pedal, well that had been repaired by welding a standard hinge to it.
The plate was easy to repair, I just cut it back until I came to good metal and welded a patch in. After a little grinding and fiddling about, it was looking good. The pedal on the other hand was a tad more complex. I had thought of making a complete new one but I have decide to, where possible, use what is left of the existing vehicle. I havn't got a complete unit and I dont exactly know how it should look but from what was left of the knackered end of the old one I had a few clues. So a bit of welding, a bit of grinding, a bit of drilling and I turned a new pivot pin and there you have it. I think it looks quite good. All i need to do is shotblast it and give it a coat of paint. The next job is to replace the floor struts that have been cut out. But thats tomorrows job. |
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#6
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Hi All,
Ive been putting some updates on the "plea for dimensions" post but thought i would get back to basics. Things here in old Blighty have are going spiffingly since Robert Morrison started supplying detailed pictures and Bruce supplied the much needed Dimensions. I have finished the fabrication in the cab area and repaired the doors, so it was on to the rear body. As you can see from the pictures things are going well but by geeves it takes some time to bend buckle and fabricate every piece. Over the next week i should get the rear body mostly built/ fabricated and then on to the roof or maybe i'll skin the rear body, who knows. My saviour, Robert, is going to supply some more pictures of the gutter area and i need to do some homework as to how the roof is fixed on. I posted a picture of an engine mount that is on my chassis and asked if anyone had any ideas as to what it was for, apart from the fact that it is for an engine. Anyone out there brave enough to have a guess? As for those with a weather fixation, we have some as well. I would send pictures but i am too busy rebuilding the CMP. Regards, Jonathan |
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