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#1
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Hi
How do you plan to attach the insulation? Glue or wire staple like the original asbestos sheet, or a combination of the two? I used wire staples made out of mig welding wire, bent to fit the original little holes then bent over and snipped off on the engine compartment side of the panels. I'm also really interested in how the Jegs Insulation works, please keep us posted. Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
#2
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I am still debating what to use.
Some of the Eastwood house brand has been given bad reviews for just melting and dripping tar off vehicle from the southern States. some of the specs for other mats are given at 14F to 140F....... well it get a lot colder than that around here and I am sure the inside of a cab 11 engine compartment at a 3 mph parade gets a lot hotter than 140F. Asbestos is out....period. Some of the synthetic such as ceramic cloth used in the auto glass industry in the 1980 is now banned like asbestos. some material is too rigid others will absorb water and or petroleum based liquids and in the words of manufacturers will deteriorate very easily. ...and I do not particularly want something that says DYNAMAT printed all over the exposed surface...... I really beleive that Phil's solution for installation is the best..... but is time consuming. Fortunately the surfaces of the engine cover are all relatively flat and all the holes are predrilled. Really curious with the expereince that David will share with us. Bob
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#3
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Hi,
My insulation arrived today and decided to put it to a test... Bought a cheapo toaster oven a while back that has so little insulation I can heat half my house just by cooking a small pizza in it,(on sale at Walmart and couldn't resist). ![]() Warmed up oven to 400 degrees F, reading on glass was 320. Placed insulation approx. 1" away from front and secured with bricks. Let soak for 30 minutes and made another reading,(ambient temperature in kitchen was 76). Four degrees difference seems pretty good to me. ![]() Thanks, David |
#4
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Your are quite the mad scientist David.
Hope you fire insurance agent is not a MLU fan !!!!!!! What is the "stuff" used between that foil sandwich...?? some kind of fiber?? Will that fiber ignite if exposed to a flame or is it like Rockwool insulation which is basically mineral. Now how are you going to install it to the engine cover??? Phil's idea of stiching with small gauge Mig wire using existing hole males sense. Or some kind of super glue that is heat resistant. There is a special silicon used to glue the seal around the doors of wood fired airtight stoves. The foil covering is most effective at reflecting back infra red heat... the fiber backing is to prevent heat transfer to the other side..... Ever wonder how a blanket or mat made of the same woven fabric as the "titanium" tape (see Jeggs catalogue) used for wrapping exhaust headers would perform. After all that exhaust tape can endure cherry red exhaust heat without deteriorating. Bob
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#5
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Great job David - that seems to indicate its pretty good at insulating.
What about a combo Bob? The exhaust material and this stuff...
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Pax Vobiscum.......may you eat three meals a day & have regular bowel movements. |
#6
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Thanks Bob and Tony,
Had time this weekend to get my engine covers repaired and painted, and the insulation installed. I used weatherstrip adhesive to initially hold the insulation to the covers, then made new wire staples,(84 of them), to install through the original holes in the panels. Cutting and shaping the insulation was relatively easy with a pair of industrial scissors, but it took an EXTREME amount of effort to install the staples into the material. Even a needle had difficulty piercing through it. I don't know what this stuff is made from, but... So to help others who will be doing this, and with this brand material: 1: Dig through your plier drawer and find one the exact width of the staples you are trying to bend up. They won't look or work right otherwise. 2: Cut the ends of the wire staples at an angle to give them a sharp point. This helps GREATLY in pushing them through this material. 3: Bend the staples outward instead of into themselves when installed. Won't squash the material this way, and has a much wider holding surface. 4:Call the pentagon, as I think we have found the origin of the stuff found out on that ranch in Roswell,1947! Thanks, David Last edited by David DeWeese; 04-02-13 at 06:16. Reason: grammar and extra b.s. |
#7
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Wow that's brilliant.....how do you "hide" UFO material from curious public.....just put it on the shelf of a DIY store
![]() Excellent update again David. I am still hoping to find an insulation which is not that shiny silver on the outside, but as that is part of the function it will probably be very hard to find nowadays. Some of the racing guys have similar material, but that usually has the brand printed on the surface about a thousand times which doesn't help on a historic vehicle. I loved your youtube vid by the way. Excellent work! Alex
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Chevrolet C8 cab 11 FFW BSA Folding Bicycle |
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