C8 progress in Texas - Page 15

David DeWeese · #**421** 25-12-12, 18:15

Hi,
Had a nagging problem with the accelerator button position on my C8. Because of the foot pedal positions and tight floor space, I simply could not avoid depressing the accelerator while pushing in the clutch pedal. I'm sure most 11 cab owner have gotten used to this pedal arrangement, but I guess you are all better men than me.

Formed a piece of 1/8" strap steel to go around the brake lever, bent a new accelerator rod linkage,(works good, but may improve it a little), installed a brass bushing in the new linkage hole and made a new button from a small freeze plug.

Thanks, David

David DeWeese · #**422** 28-01-13, 06:14

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aj2FjPN9yFc
No muffler yet...
Thanks, David

gordon · #**423** 28-01-13, 09:34

Not sure it needs a muffler.....

It's sitting straight and square - looks low, though, compared to other CMPS but them I have zero experience with the 8cwt trucks.

Gordon

hrpearce · #**424** 28-01-13, 09:47

Great feeling isn't it

Keith Webb · #**425** 28-01-13, 10:46

Certainly looks more nimble than the bigger CMPs, great to see and thanks for sharing the moment!

Phil Waterman · #**426** 28-01-13, 17:44

Hi David

Always great to see those first drive videos, whats going to be your first 100 mile drive?

My first long drives are generally with 10 miles of home, (staying inside the free tow home insurance) but early in each vehicles life I do a long drive covering all the back roads in town, just to shake out the vehicle and enjoy driving it.

One suggestion I would make is take an IR thermometer gun and take it along and check the vehicle, wheels, transmission, engine oil sump, radiator top and bottom etc. good way of spotting something before it gets serious.

But drive and enjoy that's what these trucks are great for.

Cheers Phil

PS was that a 34 Ford peeking out of the garage?

Bob Carriere · #**427** 29-01-13, 02:06

....and sounds good to....are you sure you need a muffler.... maybe just a straight pipe.....sure purrrrs like a kitten.

Bob C

David DeWeese · #**428** 29-01-13, 04:40

Gordon and Bob: Thanks! I also like the sound with no muffler, but will probably go with a short round tractor muffler to keep a little 'rumble' in the exhaust.

Robert: Yes, feels VERY good to have the truck move ME around for a change! Much less

and more

from this point on....

Keith: Thanks! The truck is very peppy, but those balloon tires keep my hands glued to the steering wheel on any uneven surface...

Phil: Any road trips will be very short as I have no registration, title or insurance on the truck at the moment.

Will sort this all out soon.

Yes, that's a '34 Ford. I brought it down from the same town in Montana that the C8 came from. Restored it during the two years I was waiting for my truck to finally get delivered.

Question on my cab11: Do the front floor tread plates go above or under the interior cab sheetmetal? Either way, the engine side covers are a real pain to install!

Thanks, David

Ganmain Tony · #**429** 29-01-13, 09:12

Floor plates go underneath in my truck David. and yes the engine covers are a pain the back side, but you'll learn to love 'em.

Absolutely stoked to see it going - a real credit to you.

I'll have first dibs on that 34 Ford as well...

Well done - please keep posting with pictures - I have really enjoyed this thread of yours..

Private_collector · #**430** 29-01-13, 10:05

Hello David,

My internet connection has been really bad for a few days, and I have been trying to get a look and listen to your video. Just got to do that, and my

to you! Looks and sounds really good. Well done.

I agree with others, your truck has an excellent exhaust note now. I know it's impractical to leave as is, and thats the pity!

To a blind man, that could be a Mack Truck

........or a D9 Dozer.

Proper job, my friend. Enjoy driving it.

David DeWeese · #**431** 30-01-13, 04:08

Ganmain Tony: Thanks for the info on the floor plates! I know what you mean about learning to love the engine covers. Good thing it's still winter here..... Have ordered a roll of double foil backed heat insulation to line the engine covers. Says it reflects 98% of heat up to 1400-degrees F....that sounds to me about right for normal driving conditions in a cab 11/12.

Tony Baker: Thanks! I like the exhaust note of 'no muffler' also as it drowns out the sound of my noisy solid-lifter valve train. Turns out the used motor I bought for the truck wasn't oiling up top properly, and had some significant wear. Will re-adjust valves again before engine covers go on.....

Today I found a long-forgotten photo of the truck the day it was pulled it from the barn in Montana.
Thanks , David

Bob Carriere · #**432** 30-01-13, 04:17

All the floor plates I have seen ( over seven 11s and 12s ) the floor plates are the foundation for everything else...... they go on first and all other panels fits on top of them.

Can you tell us more about the insulation you will be using...... make, source, cost, installation method, and pictures of course.

Bob C

David DeWeese · #**433** 30-01-13, 04:31

Hi Bob,

Ordered it from Jeg's racing. It was about $64 U.S. delivered in a 48''x72'' piece. I figured that would be enough for a cab11 engine cover. Will report again when arrives and is installed...

Thanks, David

Bob Carriere · #**434** 30-01-13, 04:33

Do you sleep next to your computer???

Thanks for the info. Will look for your follow up.

Bob C

David DeWeese · #**435** 30-01-13, 05:15

Hi Bob,
Little off with the particulars, but close....
http://www.jegs.com/i/Thermo+Tec/893/14125/10002/-1
Thanks, David

Private_collector · #**436** 30-01-13, 11:16

David,

That insulation stuff looks a lot like the material I used, except mine was adhesive on one side. Very unforgiving with installation, if it touches in the wrong place.

Wonder if I can get enough to line my sons room walls with, to screen out all the CRAP music.

Ganmain Tony · #**437** 30-01-13, 11:27

Since I dropped a rebuilt radiator in my old beast the engine covers have got much hotter.

I used a product that was silver on one side and that black sticky stuff on the other to replace the asbestos. I'm not convinced its working as well as it should.

I'm really keen to see how that material you're using goes David - might get some myself..

Phil Waterman · #**438** 30-01-13, 16:07

Hi

How do you plan to attach the insulation? Glue or wire staple like the original asbestos sheet, or a combination of the two?

I used wire staples made out of mig welding wire, bent to fit the original little holes then bent over and snipped off on the engine compartment side of the panels.

I'm also really interested in how the Jegs Insulation works, please keep us posted.

Cheers Phil

Bob Carriere · #**439** 31-01-13, 03:01

I am still debating what to use.

Some of the Eastwood house brand has been given bad reviews for just melting and dripping tar off vehicle from the southern States.

some of the specs for other mats are given at 14F to 140F....... well it get a lot colder than that around here and I am sure the inside of a cab 11 engine compartment at a 3 mph parade gets a lot hotter than 140F.

Asbestos is out....period. Some of the synthetic such as ceramic cloth used in the auto glass industry in the 1980 is now banned like asbestos. some material is too rigid others will absorb water and or petroleum based liquids and in the words of manufacturers will deteriorate very easily.

...and I do not particularly want something that says DYNAMAT printed all over the exposed surface......

I really beleive that Phil's solution for installation is the best..... but is time consuming. Fortunately the surfaces of the engine cover are all relatively flat and all the holes are predrilled.

Really curious with the expereince that David will share with us.

Bob

David DeWeese · #**440** 01-02-13, 03:41

Hi,
My insulation arrived today and decided to put it to a test...

Bought a cheapo toaster oven a while back that has so little insulation I can heat half my house just by cooking a small pizza in it,(on sale at Walmart and couldn't resist).

Warmed up oven to 400 degrees F, reading on glass was 320. Placed insulation approx. 1" away from front and secured with bricks. Let soak for 30 minutes and made another reading,(ambient temperature in kitchen was 76).

Four degrees difference seems pretty good to me.

Thanks, David

Bob Carriere · #**441** 01-02-13, 04:01

Your are quite the mad scientist David.

Hope you fire insurance agent is not a MLU fan !!!!!!!

What is the "stuff" used between that foil sandwich...?? some kind of fiber??

Will that fiber ignite if exposed to a flame or is it like Rockwool insulation which is basically mineral.

Now how are you going to install it to the engine cover??? Phil's idea of stiching with small gauge Mig wire using existing hole males sense. Or some kind of super glue that is heat resistant. There is a special silicon used to glue the seal around the doors of wood fired airtight stoves.

The foil covering is most effective at reflecting back infra red heat... the fiber backing is to prevent heat transfer to the other side.....

Ever wonder how a blanket or mat made of the same woven fabric as the "titanium" tape (see Jeggs catalogue) used for wrapping exhaust headers would perform. After all that exhaust tape can endure cherry red exhaust heat without deteriorating.

Bob

Ganmain Tony · #**442** 01-02-13, 12:00

Great job David - that seems to indicate its pretty good at insulating.

What about a combo Bob? The exhaust material and this stuff...

David DeWeese · #**443** 04-02-13, 02:38

Thanks Bob and Tony,
Had time this weekend to get my engine covers repaired and painted, and the insulation installed.

I used weatherstrip adhesive to initially hold the insulation to the covers, then made new wire staples,(84 of them), to install through the original holes in the panels.

Cutting and shaping the insulation was relatively easy with a pair of industrial scissors, but it took an EXTREME amount of effort to install the staples into the material. Even a needle had difficulty piercing through it. I don't know what this stuff is made from, but...

So to help others who will be doing this, and with this brand material:

1: Dig through your plier drawer and find one the exact width of the staples you are trying to bend up. They won't look or work right otherwise.

2: Cut the ends of the wire staples at an angle to give them a sharp point. This helps GREATLY in pushing them through this material.

3: Bend the staples outward instead of into themselves when installed. Won't squash the material this way, and has a much wider holding surface.

4:Call the pentagon, as I think we have found the origin of the stuff found out on that ranch in Roswell,1947!

Thanks, David

Alex van de Wetering · #**444** 04-02-13, 11:08

Wow that's brilliant.....how do you "hide" UFO material from curious public.....just put it on the shelf of a DIY store

Excellent update again David. I am still hoping to find an insulation which is not that shiny silver on the outside, but as that is part of the function it will probably be very hard to find nowadays. Some of the racing guys have similar material, but that usually has the brand printed on the surface about a thousand times which doesn't help on a historic vehicle.

I loved your youtube vid by the way. Excellent work!

Alex

Bob Carriere · #**445** 05-02-13, 03:05

Beautiful job.... as usual for you.

What did you use for the wire....? Phil had used Mig solid core wire...?

Sure I can find a pair of pliers that I can either grind or weld and grind to match the original staples hole width.

I think that we are limited to using silver foil as in silver aluminium coating of some sort..... the shinnier it is the better to refect heat. Not original but may be the best we can hope for...... it will loose some of it's shine over time with surface corrosion, dirt, oil spray, etc.

And if anybody asks..... well it was squirreled away from some UFO storage facility..... if you come back at night I can show you how it glows....

Thanks for your help David.

Bob

Ganmain Tony · #**446** 05-02-13, 06:22

Great job David....

How about another You tube video of you taking the new/old girl for a spin?

David DeWeese · #**447** 10-02-13, 04:01

Thanks Alex, I guess the shiney stuff is all you can get these days for heat protection. I did find some 4' x 8' x 3/8" sheets of asbestos behind my shop if you really want to go original. I can give you a great price on them.

Thanks Bob. I used some small diameter stainless wire to make the staples. The mig wire works good also, but was stiffer and more difficult to make sharp 90-degree bends without mashing down the type of material I used.

Thanks Tony. I took the rocker arm assemblies off the truck right after I made that video, and it's been down since. It had major wear in the rocker shafts and was very noisy. Finally got it all sorted out today, so tomorrow the engine covers go on and I can drive it again.

Thanks, David

David DeWeese · #**448** 11-02-13, 01:22

Hi,
Spent the day installing my engine covers. Feels good to get this behind me as they were a real pain to install. They still look a little beat up, but after 4 1/2 years of looking at that engine it was time to finally cover it up!

I must say that the engineers who designed the truck tried their best to get the most interior space they could for the occupants.....had to grind off the vacuum plug on the side of the intake manifold just to make the left side cover fit.

After I put on the panel that covers the spark plug opening, I can install the steering wheel and seats for good,(have been driving it sitting on a milk crate)....still have a lot of screw heads to paint.

Had a question: Before sandblasting the covers I noticed the faint remains of a decal located on the right cover next to the data plate. Looked original. Anyone know what it might have been, and is it being reproduced by anyone?

Thanks, David

Phil Waterman · #**449** 11-02-13, 15:32

Hi David

Here is one possible decal, about 1 1/4 x 2 1/2 this one is on my HUP. There is another that is larger that I have seen on Pattern 12s I'll look for a picture of that one.

What size would you say the one on your truck was?

Cheers Phil

Alex van de Wetering · #**450** 11-02-13, 18:52

Quote:

Thanks Alex, I guess the shiney stuff is all you can get these days for heat protection. I did find some 4' x 8' x 3/8" sheets of asbestos behind my shop if you really want to go original. I can give you a great price on them

Thanks David.....but it will probably kill me....the postage that is

Attached are two shots showing decal remains. the first one is my C8, the second is a C8 that is for sale at LWDparts. The decal in Phils picture seems to be the same size and shape.

Alex