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There is a certain sanity in simple organization. I don't have a garage or secure work area, so nothing can stay outdoors.
Tonight I was repair something non-truck. I started out with the anticipated tools and supplies, then decision by decision, brought out more and more tools and supplies. As I worked, scrap bits, wrappings and tools were either returned to their proper holders or thrown into a single container. Sometimes I used a 2' diameter garden pail with rope handles or a folding top tote box, or tonight it was the big box the new parts came in. After the job was finished and the work tested, everything came back indoors. (Wet snow and drizzle forecasted throughout the next week.) Before bed I will put everything in its place. It seems like taking twice as much time for each job, but at least I OUGHT to be able to start the next job without searching for lost tools or supplies.
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Terry Warner - 74-????? M151A2 - 70-08876 M38A1 - 53-71233 M100CDN trailer Beware! The Green Disease walks among us! |
#2
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Blitz books. |
#3
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Hi Terry and Ryan
Having the tools within easy reach and putting them back the logical thing to do, though not always practical. If the size of the shop allows having a roll around tool chest and actually moving it to the area you are working can be a real time saver. Couple of years ago when I was swapping engines on my C60S I set up a time lapse camera and one of the things that jumped out at me when I watch the time lapse video was that I was spending a lot of my time walking back and forth across the shop to get a tools. Probably good exercise but lot of wasted time. Since then I have tried to remember to move the tool box with in reach. But like you I end up grabbing tools to work under the truck and then your tote bag or tray makes a lot more sense than just having the tools loose on the floor. The other thing that I tried to do after spending to much time looking for special tools is to have a particular place to store them. Things like putting all the special engine tools, valve compressors, piston ring compressors all together in one box and marking all sides of the box with note engine tools. Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
#4
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Terry Warner - 74-????? M151A2 - 70-08876 M38A1 - 53-71233 M100CDN trailer Beware! The Green Disease walks among us! |
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For aussie MLU'ers I worked out today that Ford I6 exhaust lifter brackets found on 'Barra' and 'Orion' engines match up to sidevalve head nuts almost perfectly. Just a little widening of the bolt holes on the bracket to prevent the head bolt threads getting damaged and it lines up beaut. One can be fitted to the front and rear of the heads.
I didn't have the camera handy though.
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Blitz books. |
#6
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Thought people might find this of interest.
I know whenever I need an extra pair of hands nobody is around, or your mates have bad backs, are working, or have a golf match to go to, etc, etc. Frankly too At 65, I am past heavy lifting anyway, and to eventually reinstall the cowl I came up with this solution to be able to do it by myself. I would really need two others plus myself to do it otherwise. The base is made mainly of 75mm x 75mm RHS and has attached to the vertical posts horse jump keyhole channel. This allows the cowl (or another heavy object) to be placed at 50mm spacing. Any minor adjustment in height can be done with shims under the casters (or even letting a bit of air out of the front tyres). The arms that attach to the cowl at the radiator support bracket holes are made of 25mm x 75mm RHS. This lifting frame is then positioned on the keyhole channel with 1/2" bolts and provisions are made to be able to slightly adjust the angle with the bolts for aligning the cowl to the cabin. The steel horse jumps, which were made from the 75mm x 75mm RHS and keyhole channel, and the casters were donated to me so a couple of days work, and $30 worth of bolts was the total outlay. I figured I would just need two people to lift it onto the right height keyholes and then the rest of it is a one man operation. I actually used my engine lifter to do it so it was a one man operation all the way. Cheers,
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F15-A 1942 Battery Staff Jacques Reed |
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In my opinion, the two most important tools in my restoration shop are an electric welder and a set of oxy-acetylene torches.
Preference goes to a MIG machine as my all around go to. Hopefully my new shop will see both MIG and GTAW (TIG) / SMAW (stick) setups for total versatility. A good quality cutting/welding/brazing outfit for the oxy/acetylene is a must. Outside in the real pay cheque world as a Field Service Tech, one of the handiest things I use daily is a simple 20L plastic pail. Nothing fancy, even an old oil pail or whatever is handy. Good for garbage, scraps, tools, oil or whatever the task requires. I keep a stack handy in my service truck. Every good resto shop also needs at least one engine stand, a few axle stands, a couple dollies on casters and either a shop crane (engine lift) or suitable chain fall. A decent workbench with a hard surface top for beating on stuff coupled with a good 6" swivel base vise. Then there is a good compressor, air tools chucks and hoses to go along with it etc. Chop saw, drill press, hand grinders, clamps Toolbox filled to the brim with every possible combination of sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers, hammers, prybars, chisels vise grips, pliers And then there are the specialty items.... ![]()
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3RD Echelon Wksp 1968 M274A5 Mule Baifield USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1958 M274 Mule Willys US Army 1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715 1 CSR 1943 Converto Airborne Trailer 1983 M1009 CUCV 1957 Triumph TRW 500cc RT-524, PRC-77s, and trucks and stuff and more stuff and and....... OMVA, MVPA, G503, Steel Soldiers |
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