Blitz Chassis and Truck info wanted

[Jason Linders]

Thanks Lynn for the info

[Lynn Eades]

Jason, If it was up to me, I'd ditch it, and go for a 3 3/16" bore 24 stud motor. They are all expensive to do up, and the higher H.P. motor will cost about the same money (you get more bang for your buck!). There is a lot of info available on the net and in various recon books. Have a hunt around on the net and learn what you can before you spend any $$. Some of the U.S parts companies have some very good info on their sites.
If your motor is british (relatively speaking they are not common) the ring gear and starter are not interchangeable with the U.S. or Canadian motors. There will be other things as well.
There are no dumb questions, and there are some pretty clued up people on this forum (they just don't speak up as quick as me) Tony Smith is one local who knows his way around the FHV8.
Good luck.

[Jason Linders]

Thanks for that Lynn more info can never be enough and how hard are the 24 stud engines going to be to find.

[Cameron Reed]

Hi Jason, my guess is it is a pilot or it could well be out of a pommy truck (thames) or the like, although i'm no expert on these things. I've have spent a bit of time trying to identify it any better, thats why i was curious when you posted your engine no, as it doesn't marry up with any either yankee or canadian models. The best I have come up with from speaking to different people is they seemed to be made up of various parts left over from post war, sort of based on the late '37 early'38 american motor. Keith is correct 3 1/16" bore, I put rings and bearings in it and had a bit of a hard time finding suitable bits as it was .045" over(which is aparently a common size for them)and the big end bearings are different to everything else. The use a bearing that is flanged on one side only and is a individual insert type with a lock tang, same as the BA motors not the fully floaters (ie two rods on the one wide bearing).
You could try a company called Yesteryear ford in Burgess rd Bayswater Vic as he was the only place that I had any success.
Either way if its a runner it'll get you going till you can find a suitable replacement with time and dollars, it wont give you wiplash but it gets you going mine will cruise on the flat comfy at about 75km or 80 if you want to push it along a little it's done 2500 miles now in the last 12 months and are currently building a replacement 99 block as dollars become available
Water pumps are the same as car ones single pulley you can get the later type with a sealed bearing instead of a bush, couldn't see any reason why you couldn't use the truck twin pulley type, I didn't in my case as I run an alternator and drive the fan of the extra front pulley on the crank ( didn't like the idea of that big heavy steel fan of the little alternator shaft) although it probably wouldn't fail.

[Jason Linders]

Thanks for that Cameron that helps a bit it might be a great idea to use for now and track down a 24 bolt later on or if one pops up without removing a leg for one.

Thanks for the replies and help

[Jason Linders]

found a Rebuilt tag on rh side of engine
from Ford Motor Company of Australia
Engine no:9850
AV2R
Model:78E

(CYL BLOCK)
CYL BORE:STD

(CRANKSHAT)
MAINS: .020
PINS: .030
CONROD:E21A

So does this mean its not a UK bitza Engine

[Jason Linders]

Here are the "unit mark" on the left side front, hard to see but you can see the
boomerang and it looks like the buffalo to me and some pics of the paint layers looks like sand under the two differant colour greens