Restoration of Hull 731- Carrier, MG (Aust) Mortar Carrying

[Darrin Wright]

Like an excited kid at Christmas I was up at 0530h and out in the shed to vacuum up the left over garnet and start blowing off the dust.
Ducked inside at 0600h to put the hot cross buns into the oven (left over from Easter) quickly tidied up so that I can go to work.
Back inside to have breakfast with the kids before having to go to work, then off to work.
Who wants to be at work when there is so much happening at home? so knocked off at 1100h to go home and start painting.
Anyway, here are some pics...

[Darrin Wright]

More progress pics of painting.
I used 4.5Lt of etch primer, bit worried that I might run out, so I thinned it down slightly to extend it that little bit further.

Also while painting the main PRV or check valve into the tank on my air compressor failed and drained the tank slowly, so the electric motor driving the compressor had to cut in and cycle more often.

I eventually finished at around 1500h, so approx 4 hrs to paint.

The pic of the RHR of the hull clearly depicts the base plate brackets, hand rail and also the footman loops for the straps to stow the ammunition tubes into place.

[colin jones]

Looks excellent Darrin and what a great hull too. I gather your air scoop is welded in.

[Paul Dutton]

Originally Posted by Darrin Wright

More progress pics of painting.
I used 4.5Lt of etch primer, bit worried that I might run out, so I thinned it down slightly to extend it that little bit further.

Also while painting the main PRV or check valve into the tank on my air compressor failed and drained the tank slowly, so the electric motor driving the compressor had to cut in and cycle more often.

I eventually finished at around 1500h, so approx 4 hrs to paint.


The pic of the RHR of the hull clearly depicts the base plate brackets, hand rail and also the footman loops for the straps to stow the ammunition tubes into place.

Nice going there mate! Beautiful hull and project.
Second pic, is that an Aussie hard at work....??
And the colour, is that Aussie laid back blue....??

[Dale Jordan]

Really nice Darrin , it must have been hard to go to work knowing all that bare metal was just waiting for some paint , anyway she is done now and what a nice looking hull well done . The carrier hull looked so small on the back of the truck ...keep us posted on progress . Dale

[Darrin Wright]

Mid week started painting a little bit of green in to the critical parts that require other work and where I will not be able to get to later.
The green is close to what I want but not 100% right, so just using it as a base coat.

[Darrin Wright]

After painting both sides of the tow eye/mount and a test fitting with the rear armour cover in place, the tow eye was welding back in.

The front water bottle bracket was removed due to rust, so after having a new bracket fabricated by Simon Allen (0402 220 367 if you require one) and painting both sides, it was time to put it back in. After measuring to ensure it was in the right spot it was welded in. Once in, cleaned up the welds and a little bit of undercoat and green ready for painting later.

[Darrin Wright]

After painting several coats of green in the engine bay where the tube axle goes, it was time to put into place the engine bay divider plate that I had measured and lazer cut.
It is possible to have the plate in and then fit the fuel change over linkage rod, but I decided to fit the linkage first and then weld the engine bay divider plate in over it. Later I will get the bolts and brackets fitted to secure the linkage so that it does not fall out.

Also started welding in the metal brackets/guards that protect the brake rods running to the rear of the hull.

[Darrin Wright]

Went to the engine reconditioners and had them check out the flaw in the sleeve. Nothing to be worried about, it will not catch the oil ring and there is a lot of meat in the sleeve and the engine casting, so the coolant will not penatrate through.

Finished cleaning out the engine and a gave it a blow out with the air.

Cleaned up the crankshaft and placed the bearings and crank in, used flexi-gauge to check the clearance between bearing and journal (.002" gap).
End float was .003".
Installed the oil pump drive gear, sealed it up with gasket goo.
Also installed the rear main seal, took a fair bit to get that rope into the small gap/wedge. Eventually I used the bearing cap and gently & evenly pulled down the bearing cap to install the seal.
The crankshaft is quite firm and tight to rotate, this should become easier later as they bed in.

Some pics of my efforts so far...

[Lynn Eades]

Before you get too far, I may need to be enlightened here. I thought that with that alloy insert, and the flange (slinger) on the crank, that there was not supposed to be a rear seal in that set up?
My understanding is that a new alloy insert is installed, and the slinger is ground off, by the crank grinder, and then a (dog turd) seal is installed.

[Darrin Wright]

Going by my Repair Manual for Ford V8 engines, 1937 to 1947, (pic attached) it states that "one has to coat the upper & lower rear main oil seal retainers with shellac and install the upper half of the retainer in the cylinder block.
Engines built since April 1944 have the lower oil seal retainer integral with the cap. On earlier engines, install the lower half of the retainer in the rear main bearing cap".
There is no clear pic showing the bearing journal at the rear of the crankshaft.

The book leads me to beleive that the seal retainers have the rope seal and the retainer listed as one item.
When the engine was pulled apart there was a rope seal in the seal retainers, this does not neccesarily mean that it was correct.
The gasket kit that I bought has the rope items in it, possibly a modern day way of economically supplying the parts as seal retainers do not wear out (unless incorrectly installed).
The engine rebuilder did give my a bit of V8 history regarding my engine, it is a 1940 block but he thought it had a 1949 crank whick is quite rare (ie a good crank for hot rods & racing). That all means that this engine was possibly rebuilt at some point. The engine number confirms that it was in a BGC as referanced to the AWM records.
I beleive that the rope seal has to go back in to the seal retainers and runs along the edge of the slinger, I think it will be a very effective seal.

I am open to any input and corrective advice at this point in time...

[Lynn Eades]

I am waiting for others to chime in here, because I don,t think you are supposed to install any seal in your set up ( 3rd picture post #102) It is purely a slinger.
I would be buying the later seal carriers, and having the slinger ground off.
Before you do anything, get the info.
Your last picture is of a later engine, with no water holes along the sump line. Have a look at Van Pelts web site or jump on Fordbarn.
I,m just trying to save you some grief.

[Lynn Eades]

Darrin, here are some pictures of what the later seal carrier looks like. This one is for the rope seal.
There is a listing on E bay for one #360661747859.
Van Pelts sell them.

[Darrin Wright]

Lynn,
having read the 1943 workshop manual, it describes the 1940/41 engine as having a slinger on the crankshaft and the seal reatiner fitted to catch the oil.
On the 1942 engines (and earlier engines fitted with a later model crankshaft) the slinger is machined off and a different seal retainer fitted with a rope seal to keep the oil in the sump.

I visited and joined the fordbarn website/forum and have posted a question there to see what info I get.

I think I have the earlier crankshaft and rear main bearing and do not require the rope seal, the slinger should do the job. At this point in time I will not modify the engine as what was engineered originally should work well providing I put it back together correctly or as originally designed.

[Darrin Wright]

With the parts that have arrived I have now rebuilt the water pumps for the engine with kits from Mac's Auto and painted them a light/mid grey colour.

Last night I stripped down the diff because it would not fit as a complete assembly into the back of the hull due to the top adjusters having to go into the hole in the hull. So off with the backing plates, this then allowed me to paint it. I also painted a number of smaller items so that they can go into the hull- fuel tank brackets, steering cam plate and gear linkage assembly.

I also had a parcel arrive this morning, a new carby from Mac's Auto. Not sure what happened to the other items that I ordered??? Another parcel???

[Ric Davies]

Lookin real good Darrin. Bet you were thrilled to have to re-strip the diff!!
Speaking of the cam plate and rollers,I replaced the bearings with a new sealed roller bearing that fits inside the original housing. If you want the numbers I can dig them out. Ric

[Darrin Wright]

Thanks for the feedback, the positive side to stripping the diff is that I can get a good coat of paint onto the backing plates and drums.

Euan found that the bearings that go into the 2 rollers are the same bering that locates into the centre of the steering cam plate, I already have 1 bearing for the cam plate so will have to get 2 more later.

Today I concentrated on painting the items to mount the diff into the hull, getting slightly side tracked with the diff, but I do need some room to put all the parts and I figured it is just as easy to place them into/on the hull.
I also painted more of the hull, so I would estamate that it is approx 80% green.
I have the gear linkage and some other small items ready to bolt in, so that may be tomorrows work.

[Darrin Wright]

commenced fitting some of the rear compartment items and gear linkage.
Also mounted the diff brackets into the hull in preparation for the diff to go in.

Important to get all tools, nuts & bolts and anti-sieze and anything else you may want in the hull before climbing in, otherwise there is a lot of climbing in & out which results in sore legs and wasted time.

[Darrin Wright]

Some pics of the diff, which I beleive to be a 1938 diff with the machined axle tubes and modified brake backing plates. The housing does not have the modification to fit a diff breather.
The backing plates are marked 'LEFT' and 'RIGHT'and are both different in how they were modified for a BGC. This diff is out of a BGC and the backing plates are from this diff. To my knowledge they have not been messed with until my Dad rebuilt it.
These pics may help someone who is looking for these items in correctly identifying what they are looking at.

[Darrin Wright]

Installed the diff into the rear of the hull, took a bit to align and bolt up by myself.
In the afternoon I fabricated and welded in the bracket for the handbrake lever, so that it can be mounted up under the front armour by the drivers right knee.
Also had a tidy up as I could not find parts for painting, hopefully tomorrow morning I can paint some green and install more items in the afternoon.

Fixed the binding gear linkage in the rear, now just have to figure out how the linkage moves around the right floor exhaust elbow.

[Darrin Wright]

Managed to paint items and install some of them, including my refurbished air cleaners. I am now seeing space on my parts shelves for other things.
The air cleaners were refurbished with a modern concertina element out of a diesel electric loco, they just had to be cut down the correct length to fit and installed new felts at each end.

Painted the brake backing plates but have found that the section where the brake actuator shaft goes through the mounting plate/bracket interferes with the hole in the backing plate, so may have to remove some metal to allow for it to fit.

Fitted all the internals to the gearbox and have come to a halt as I require a new shaft for the clutch fork. I also have to repair the rear cast mount as it has a crack in it. Have installed some new items that I bought at Corowa this year, so that should remove some movement within and hopefully make it a bit quieter, but being in a BGC I will probably never know with all the other noise.
Will get a new shaft machined up in the next couple of weeks.

[Darrin Wright]

With the parts that I had, I have finished the gearbox. It turned out that I did not have to weld the rear mount as I had the correct item on hand, so that is now bolted on. The output shaft willl have to be machined and sleeved as it has rust on the sealing surface from sitting all those years.

Painted the hull except for the front section of armour that has the new section of steel, that still requires work with body filler to get it flat. Hull looks good all green, bit glossy but that will change in the coming months.

Engine now has all valves installed and adjusted. I found that when you buy 'ädjustable lifters' what they really mean is that one must still follow the original method to adjust and insatll the valve assemblies, but the lifters are adjustable which speeds up and makes easier the installation. I thought with ádjustable lifters' that they would be more modern and be able to be adjusted in the engine much like my Chev or Jeep. Anyway that was 2 days well spent... I am now at the pint of installing the pistons, conrods and bearings.
I have painted the sump, intake manifold and carby choke/throttle bracket.
I also have a new carby from Mac's Auto and the other little items that I ordered have arrived.
Water pumps have been installed and that has allowed me to mount the engine into its stand so that I can work on the underside to install those bearings.

Found the original elec conduit from the front of the hull, so using that as a guide have welded in a replacement threaded block that secures the conduit into the hull.
Fitted 2 of the 3 oil cooler brackets.
Oil cooler valve and bracket installed into engine bay.

Work will slow down as I finish holidays and return to my normal job...

[Darrin Wright]

This weekend I commenced fitting pistons to conrods and placing them into the engine.
Washed and inspected all parts, checked rings in piston grooves and also checked ring gap. As it was 8 deg C I used a little blow heater to keep warm and heat the cast iron rings, also went into town and bought a ring spreader as I did not want to break any rings. Once I had this, I assembled up the front 2 pistons and got them into the engine. Then on to check the bearing gap. Either the wind or the dogs tail has brushed the plasti-gauge strip off my work area, but unable to find it (therefore unable to check bearging) so I moved on to the clutch bearing.

I ordered a grease hose for the clutch throw out bearing from AJay's Ford parts in New Zealand and that had arrived early in the week. Great value as I do not think I would have been able to get this made in Australia for the price I paid. NOS and in good condition. Cleaned out the grease cup and fitted it and the hose to the gearbox housing.

I also collected a new floor plate for the drivers controls/linkages, from the lazer cutters. Placed it in/on the drivers floor to check the bend angle and shape. All good there, so in time will fabricate and fit all brackets and drill holes to bolt it into the hull.

[Darrin Wright]

One the weeeknd had some family time; however, I did manage the following:
bought a pair of top radiator hoses with the script "Ford" from a friend who had purchased the incorrect items from Mac's.

Given some header wrap from a friend (left over from an auto shop) so that I can wrap my exhaust pipes to hopefully channel the heat out the exhaust pipes, works on motorbikes so hopefully it will work in this application.

Purchased a Ford Timing Fixture, model 60 made is Australia so that I can set up and adjust the distributor. There are instructions on the tool and I will have to read up on the manuals so that I have some idea on what I will attempt to do. There may be a bit of trial & error involved with this.
Has anybody used these and have a tip or 2 to share?

[Lynn Eades]

Hi Darrin, looks like a good tool. Basically 1 set of points triggers the spark (all cylinders) and the other extends the quench time of the coil, so the dwell is different for both sets of points. Your jig looks like a good one. It looks like it does both types of dizzy without a mounting adapter.
Go onto Fordbarn and search Bubba's threads. He has covered it in the last 2 1/2 months.

[Darrin Wright]

Continued to work on the engine, have done the following:
installed R head
torqued all head nuts
painted and installed front timing/engine cover
installed intake manifold (found, cleaned & painted all bolts)
installed exhaust manifolds
placed sump on, then realised the clutch assembly will not fit- left for later...
installed new carby
installed accelerator linkage on R head at rear
installed PCV valve and pipe

Have some pics on the camera, just do not know where the camera is right now.

Picked up the armature from my friend, placed it into the starter motor and appears alright. Will assemble it later in week.

[Lynn Eades]

Darrin, I am enjoying your thread. Can I ask you to do some photos of the PCV valve system, exactly where each end goes. cheers.

[Ian Fawbert]

Hi Darrin,

Looks like its coming together nicely!

One thing i thought worthy to share was:

Champion H10-C from Repco @ AU$3.90 each.

We recently fitted some new champion plugs in our 1928 Oldsmobile tourer, new off the shelf. The vehicle ran very well for about 2000k's around Victoria over 2 weeks in october last year before not making it home to Sydney from Corryong (spelling?-somewhere in the snowy!). It came home on an NRMA flatbed (lucky for the top cover!). It continued to muck up and was eventually tracked by the local mechanic and myself (i didnt have time to determing exactly and mum needed to go on a 800k run) as the plugs. He said that they had quite a few cars in recently (does alot of 70's fords) with not long old/, not many miles or 0 miles Champion plugs which ran rough- tracked back to the plugs.

So, i guess what im trying t say is, if you have running problems in the not too (or immediate) future, check the plugs! He fitted NGK plugs and the Olds now goes like the rocket it used to!

Thanks for the posts on the carrier resto- very interesting for us non (and im sure those in the know) carrier people.

Cheers,
Ian.

[Darrin Wright]

Here is the PCV set up on my engine, as depicted in my BGC manuals.
Lucky to have this as I think most people back then would have discarded additional stuff on an engine.
When reading the manual, I am not sure how this works in conjunction with the filter at the rear of the intake manifold and the sump breather/outlet.

I have also noticed that early engines did not have an oil filter, perhaps the PCV is a later engine item.
As I have an early BGC, the lack of an oil filter makes the routing of the oil lines at the LHR of engine a little bit easier. My engine also lacks the oil filter return bolt/fitting on the fuel pump mount to intake manifold.

[Lynn Eades]

Darrin, the normal sump vent on a car is sucked clear by the draft of air going under the car. This doesn't happen in a carrier because the engine is fully enclosed. The positive crank case ventilation is activated in a high manifold vacuum situation drawing the "blow by" fumes in the crank case into the inlet manifold. Clean air is drawn through the breather at the rear to replace the scavenged fumes. I imagine it was the poor filtration of this breather, as much as the air cleaner that caused such early engine wear in carriers in the north african desert campaign. Nigel Watsons book mentioned that The life of an engine was as low as 2 to 3 thousand miles. Trucks were probably not much better.
Thanks for the pictures.