M38A1 CDN2 Steering question

Warren Quin · #1 13-05-13, 23:24

I'll ask Brian than as I have no means of making something.

Everything is good. No loose springs, it steers fine, I had no problems aligning it... It just that the tie rod doesn't work with the bend in it as is...

Edit: I just went out and jacked it up to verify the springs. It had to go up almost 2.5 inches for the angles to look like they would clear and the shackles were pretty much vertical. I don't think that's right...

I will just have to keep looking...

If you have a unit with this bell crank could I get a picture or two of the tie rod angles for comparison? One of the problems is I have nothing to compare it to...

Thank again
Warren

BCA · #2 14-05-13, 01:15

I checked a few jeeps and some NOS tie rod ends. The diameter of the body at the end of the centre tie rod end (where it is a tight fit) is 1-7/16" for NOS part. It is possible that repro parts have a thicker body which would rub against the other tie rod. However I checked 4 CDN2/3 M38A1's and they all have very little or no clearance where you are having your problem. My 1953 M38A1 has about 1/8" or more clearance.
Maybe this lack of clearance was not a problem as long as the part could be installed tightly. There would seem to be very little differential motion at this tight spot when the wheels are turned. ..... Brian

Warren Quin · #3 14-05-13, 12:14

Thanx to everyone who contributed. I guess, for now, it will stay as is using my pressed tie rod end. Eventually I think I will have to get a mount that will take the regular crank and new springs to bring the angles up (like crossed swords) as I can't see anyway to lengthen the bell crank to push them out and apart. This would seem to be the only answer given there are only 3 connection points on the tie rod setup...

Assuming there is not a different tie rod, it just seems strange that, if all the CDN2's have this long bell crank, that it hasn't come up before. I can't have the only unit with slightly tired springs...

Thanx again...

Warren

rob love · #4 14-05-13, 15:26

You could go to the narrow tie rods used on the M38 and CJs. Tie rods came in two threads and thicknesses. The tapered studs are the same, so they are interchangeable.

I checked mine and there is very little clearance. Just the nature of the beast I guess.

Re the bellcrank mount, there was always a problem with separation of the crossmember at the bellcrank mount. If the crossmember does need welding, I recommend removing the radiator, as it is in very close proximity. Also, the radiator tends to get beaten up in the area of the bellcrank bolt...another thing to check on.

Warren Quin · #5 14-05-13, 23:51

Thank Rob. I'll look into the m38/CJ parts... I considered it in the beginning but thought I would try an keep it as close to original as pockets allowed...

My mount and crossmember is solid plus the rad has no dents...

One of the reasons I got this unit, other than it was reasonably cheap, was it was in pretty good shape all considered. From a functional standpoint all I've done is the tie rod, rear shocks, all the fluids, and the parking brake which I'm still working on parts for (thanx Brian)... Just missing bits and pieces... the small stuff that empties the pockets in a continuous stream as you think "I know I don't have a on/off switch but wouldn't the switch plate for it look good behind the key"... Or yeah the mix of mismatched plug wires works but a new set of factories would look so much better ... :-)

Anyhow thanks again and now I'm off to see if the brake switch is truly gone or if today's rain just soaked the old wiring and shorted it :-(

Warren