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#1
28-09-13, 11:09
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Phil, I dont think having the two wheel end fixed would suit my needs. When I need to move the whole thing around outside on uneven ground, I dont want the most animated end of the trolley being the one wheel end. At one point, I considered having all castor wheels. Very pleased I reonsidered that idea. Removing the issue of stability on the gravel, having castor on single wheel SHOULD give better manouverability on concrete floor. Especially so in restricted space. I would have gone that way, if I didnt want to go outside with it.
My solid tyres dont feel to have flat spots. Im sure I would feel something if they had suffered thus. The engine I had basically discarded in preference for the recently acquired French block, had been sitting on that trolley for around 12 months or thereabouts. I would imagine the extent of any flat spot developing is proportionate to the weight rating of the individual wheel/tyre sets being used. Mine are rated at 300kg each. I chose tyres with a tread pattern, so they wouldnt slip around, but with the weight of an engine above them, I guess that would have been unlikely to happen anyway. Also the tyre compound is VERY dense. Sorry I cant recall whether they are considered rubber, plastic, or something else. No idea whatsoever, with regards to engine weight, though it is something I have tried to find out! No one seems to want to give an approximation, not even the local engine rebuilding workshop. When I was still considering assembling the engine myself, I intended to buy a rebuild stand that would take 900kg (2000lbs). I figured that should cover any engine I would ever work with (unless I wanted to rebuild a Pratt & Whittney radial engine). I cant get used to seeing engines hanging off stands, with just 4 bolts going into the bell housing. It just looks so WRONG, but everyone I have spoken to, that has done engines this way, assure me it is actually safe. Still gives me the creeps though.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) 
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#2
28-09-13, 11:32
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Bushings, front spring brackets
After measuring a bush from a spare bracket for the front spring, I have purchased a new pair of 3/4" ID x 1" OD x 2" L bronze Oilite bushes. Total cost, including shipping from USA (of course, everything is) comes to $29.95USD.
$T2eC16JHJG8FGtFtU8WSBR3cQsWVOw~~60_57.jpg They still have more, if anyone needs them. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/181173697...84.m1497.l2649 On a different topic, this is my new car. 20130924_064804.jpg It was owned by my Brother, and has been given to me. Moderately smaller than I am used to, but very economical, and quite nice to drive. My challenge now is to keep it in the same condition my Brother maintained it in.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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#3
29-09-13, 03:59
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Engine Weight
No idea whatsoever, with regards to engine weight, though it is something I have tried to find out! No one seems to want to give an approximation, not even the local engine rebuilding workshop. When I was still considering assembling the engine myself, I intended to buy a rebuild stand that would take 900kg (2000lbs). I figured that should cover any engine I would ever work with (unless I wanted to rebuild a Pratt & Whittney radial engine).
G'day Tony, No not a research question challenge - I just could not resist...  According to http://www.35pickup.com/mulligan/weight.txt the weight of a Ford V8 Flathead is Quote:
 P.S. Being naturally dubious about internet sources I did some more digging - I have already corrected the spelling of the Author's name for Reference (124) and found that there could be an error in reference (1) The Handbook of Engine Swapping 1960 could either be one of two publications Handbook of Engine Swapping Pamphlet – January 1, 1960 by Floyd Clymer (Author) Pamphlet: 103 pages Publisher: Clymer Publications; 1st edition (1960) Or going by the name cited as Reference (1) "John Thawley" it could be the right author and the wrong publication name and the incorrect year of publishing... Practical Engine Swapping [Paperback] John Thawley (Editor) Publisher: Steve Smith Autosports; Second Edition edition (June 1976) Language: English ISBN-10: 0936834110 ISBN-13: 978-0936834115 I hope this clears things up - teehee! I have contacted the author who wrote the list for a clarification of what reference (124) actually is. I will let you know if I hear back from them. Kind Regards Lionel
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1940 Chevrolet MCP with Holden Built Cab (30 CWT). 1935 REO Speed Wagon. 1963 Series 2A Army Ambulance ARN 112-211 Series III ex-Military Land Rovers x 2 Last edited by Lionelgee; 29-09-13 at 05:11.
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#4
29-09-13, 12:13
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Thanks Lionel! That's a fair bit less than I thought it would be. Even if that were kgs, I wouldn't have doubted it. That probably explains why my home made engine trolley hasn't collapsed yet! Also, I have been able to lift one end of the engine trolley, and should have realised that it couldn't be too heavy if I could do that. Well, when I say 'lift' I mean take enough weight off the tyre to drag it sideways.
 I painted the front spring to axle attaching hardware this morning. Then started putting the front springs back on. The rear shackle will have to come off again when the new bushes arrive. The above things brought me to about 1300hrs, so I started looking for something else to do, so I decided to try reinstalling the front axle to the chassis. Had a few things to move around before I had any chance of doing the reassembly inside the workshop. chassis moved.jpg Engine cranes, eh! Is there anything they cannot do? Just pull the chassis to one side and wheel the front axle around to where the assembly will be done. Chassis moved 1.jpg Then a matter of aligning the two parts in 3 dimensions. How hard could that be!?!? One thing I REALLY like about my paint choice, it dries extremely fast, especially in a Queensland heatwave. Chasssis moved 2.jpg A few turns of the spanner/s, and the mandatory scarred knuckles later, and I now have a rolling chassis!!!! Even put the steering box on, but it was after I had taken these photos. Due to a persistent oil leak in the box, I removed the oil and replaced it with a semi-grease type lube that is especially for steering boxes that just won't seal completely. Front end installed 1.jpg Nice straight lines too. Mind you, I had so many of the cross members off that it really couldn't be out now. Chassis straight.jpg
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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#5
30-09-13, 10:42
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Parts needed
Does anybody know of a source for the correct rubber grease seals that go on both ends of the pitman arm?
20130930_173742.jpg I would also like to hear from anyone who has one of these front shock absorber to axle rods for sale. I dont care if they are used, so long as good useable condition. 20130930_173845.jpg And finally, I have not been able to locate a replacement Ford steering wheel nut. My original one had to be split in two to get it off, and I dont think I can glue it back together again! Any leads on where to buy one of these would be gratefully accepted. For that matter, if you are able to tell me nut size and TPI, I can start the local bolt looking for one. Thanks very much,
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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#6
03-10-13, 23:05
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Quote:
Have a couple of those pitman arm rubbers. They are NOS which makes them pretty old rubber but they seem usable. Have you got the steel caps they sit in? Will check out junk box. May have a rough steering wheel nut for you to get you out of trouble until a better one comes along. Will stick these items in a jiffy bag to you. P.S. Haven't restarted the Blitz project yet. The lathe project has dominated what free time I've had but it's almost done so soon back into the truck. Cheers, Jacques
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F15-A 1942 Battery Staff Jacques Reed
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#7
04-10-13, 00:24
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Pitman arm seals
Good Day
Further to previous reply here is a photo of the seals for those who may also be looking for them. 2" long x 1-1/4" wide with 3/4" hole. Embossed on them is what appears to be Part No. 81T-3332 which is listed as "Retainer drag link grease. (rubber)" in the Spare Parts list. Would also be curious to know if they are common to any other vehicle. They are substantially bigger than Ford passenger car pittman arm seals of the era. Cheers, Jacques
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F15-A 1942 Battery Staff Jacques Reed
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