Jacking up a carrier

[horsa]

Railroad Ties / Sleepers are what I use but they are just like the cribbing blocks when cut to shorter lengths to keep things manageable. One tie can be cut into four shorter blocks and they are pretty solid for holding the weight once you jack the vehicle up.

I've always used a 3-ton floor jack to get one end of the vehicle up and then move the blocks into place so the jack isn't under load later when working underneath the carrier. Used to place 5-ton jack stands beneath the carrier before the blocks but I had one literally fold up and collapse. Likely from my having been in the vehicle earlier and doing work which possibly caused the load to shift. It didn't fail while I was in or under the vehicle fortunately.

Blocks are certainly safer, even though they are harder to manage than stands. Getting crushed will ruin the rest of your day. Assuming there is someone handy that can jack the vehicle off whatever part of your body is pinned.

[servicepub (RIP)]

How's this for an idea?

[Richard Farrant]

Having worked on flat bottomed armoured vehicles in government workshops, I can say that we would not use stands, timber blocks being order of the day. If the vehicle was nudged, it would just move on the blocks, but on stands, being metal to metal, it would likely slide off. Another point is with a thin armour floor it puts a point loading at the point of the stand.

[Phil Waterman]

Originally Posted by servicepub;186A293

How's this for an idea?

Hi All

Great photo Clive, I've got one those jacks it was in my HUP when I bought the HUP many years ago. Thing must weigh close to 200 LBS. As to the rest of what they were up to must have been a story.
Cheers Phil

[David Dunlop]

I noticed your comment about putting rubber between the blocks and hull to protect the paint. If you plan on having the carrier sit on the blocks for some time, I would replace the rubber with cotton waste. Over time and under pressure, the chemicals in the rubber can react with the paint and the paint will stick to the rubber when you get around to removing the blocking from under it.

Also, my Father in law worked for many years in the Transcona Railway Shops in Winnipeg. Whenever they had to jack up a steam locomotive (steam jacks in the day), they put a wad of cotton waste on the top of the jack to prevent any metal to metal slippage from happening.

David

[Lauren Child]

Much like Richard, when we're working on the bigger stuff there isn't much that beats a big lump of wood. It spreads the load over a wide area and provides a good amount of friction to prevent slippage or movement.

[motto]

I suppose everyone is a bit skittish about saying it as forum members are no doubt smarter than the average bear but under no circumstances should bricks or breeze blocks be used to support any vehicle at any time let alone something as heavy as a UC no matter how pressing the job.
Common sense cannot be relied upon as it is becoming less common in the population at large and so the compulsion to state what would be innate knowledge to most.
Wooden blocks cannot be beaten for supporting a vehicle under most circumstances although axle stands are very good.
Over the years I have found that the red-gum posts used in Australian suburban fences are an excellent source of material when cut to length and still can't help picking them up when I come across them.

David

[Hans Mulder]

X2 on the reccomendation against bricks. I have seen cinderblocks disintegrate under weight...

[maple_leaf_eh]

Originally Posted by motto

....Over the years I have found that the red-gum posts used in Australian suburban fences are an excellent source of material when cut to length and still can't help picking them up when I come across them.

David

Was there wire connecting those posts at the time of collection? Or more accurately, an electric service wire running to the address behind the fence posts?

[universalgrl]

Some important things to consider when undergoing jacking operations take your time and do it right!
1. Always jack on a level surface preferably concrete.
2. Check your equipment for faults.
i. jack stands for cracks or missing floor pads
ii. hydraulic jacks for proper fluid level and leaking seals
iii. make sure the jack has sufficient capacity to handle the load.
3. If you are jacking a carrier that does not have a center divider make sure that the hull sits level and do a cross corner alignment check before any serious riveting work is undertaken. A small misalignment error at the bottom can equal a large error at the top.
If you think I am preaching, I was a general safety officer and I have seen jacks collapse after blowing their seals, jack stands crack and collapse and cars fall off hydraulic hoists.

[Paul Dutton]

Lift her slowly on a suitable jack and use blocks mate.
Old railway sleepers (check not rotten....seen that a few time!!) chainsaw to length/size required!
1 rail sleeper is about £15.00 here and you can get 3 large blocks from one of them, cheaper than good heavy duty stand!
If up in air for prolonged period you can alsi `TIE` them together with steel straps with holes in to put screws thru!
And dont stick ur daft head under til its secure!

[Dale Jordan]

Thanks for the tips everyone all points taken on board . Yes I have gone for timber blocks with rubber mat under hull to look after the paint work . I just jack up one corner to take off the double station on the hand right hand side . Once it was off , I jack her back down the level whilst I work on the station over the next week or so , The hull did creak and groan a bit as I lifted here up ... Dale

[Lynn Eades]

It has been touched on. I always have a bit of wood between the hull and the jack. I jack under the vertical side plates, and I block the hull with pine blocks.