Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

Thanks Nathan, thats a very nice offer. without all you good folks on MLU, I wouldn't be able to get this bloody truck finished. I'm quite sure of that!

I would offer to buy the entire transfer case from you, but fear the postage would be prohibitive. Also the workers comp claim from the postie would cruel me.

There is a fellow here in Gympie (just outside of Gympie actually) who has made an exceptionally fine restoration of an early FGT. I have been told he does not use internet, and did the entire job without all the support and assistance that comes from networks such as MLU. I cannot imagine how he did that. I would like to put that question to him really, but for some reason the phone number I have called him on many months ago, now goes to a fax, so i'll have to wait until I see him around town. Maybe next ANZAC Day, at the parade.

[Private_collector]

Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony

But by geez it'll sound marvellous!!

I do like the way you think, GT.

Better stick with the one pipe though. Will probably have to compromise on the muffler anyway, but thats as far as I will go..................probably!

[Nathan Clark]

Tony, I have inspected the truck and the transfer case lever is there. It is however stuck fast in the pivot point....I removed the 2 retainer bolts but it may need a bit of tlc to work it loose from the housing. Other then that, the lever appears to be in reasonable condition, only surface rust on the shaft, the gear knob is missing as usual.
If your still interested Tony ill get a quick snap of it in the morning and post it up to see if it meets your needs. If so, then ill work on getting it out.
Regards, Nathan

[Private_collector]

Nathan,

PM sent. Thanks very much.

[Nathan Clark]

Hello again Tony.
Gear stick out, I have posted pictures below to confirm this is what your after and if it suits your needs. PM also sent.
Regards, Nathan

[Private_collector]

What on earth is this lever for?

I have been moving it from one place to another, each time I tidy the workshop, without any idea exactly what it is. I once thought it must be a part for the transfer case, but unless its for a PTO it can't be.

Any thoughts? Is it even for a CMP?

[Keith Webb]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

What on earth is this lever for?
Attachment 60933
I have been moving it from one place to another, each time I tidy the workshop, without any idea exactly what it is. I once thought it must be a part for the transfer case, but unless its for a PTO it can't be.

Any thoughts? Is it even for a CMP?

It looks like a front axle engagement lever for a single speed transfer case.

[Private_collector]

This is an interesting set of instructions for Allied Forces fighting in Normandy, titled....

Fighting in Normandy: from*Combat Lessons, No. 4A 1944, Rank and file in combat: What they're doing; How they do it. The purpose of*Combat Lessons*was to give officers and enlisted men the benefit of battle experiences. The article discusses the unique problems of fighting in the Normandy hedgerows.

http://www.lonesentry.com/normandy_lessons/index.html

[Private_collector]

The transfer case is now fully disassembled, showing some damage to a couple of the gears. I found that the thicker centre row gear had a bit if movement against the splined shaft. If I rotated it, there was some movement around its axis. Not really understanding HOW this wear could have occured. No visible damage to the shaft or the gear itself, but it cant be right, surely? If anyone has a replacement for sale, please let me know.

I have taken photos to post, just not had the chance to upload them yet.

Placed a HUGE order with the bearing shop in town. I thought the front end had a lot of bearings, but this transfer case takes the cake! Ordered 8 bearing cups, 6 bearings, and 3 seals.........so far. Im hoping to save several others.

I dont even want to think about how many gaskets i'm gonna need to make! There might be a whole day just in doing those. Painting the seperate parts should get done this Sunday, since there's bugger all possibility of rain. Very little rain has fallen since the floods last January. Guess i'll be buying another tanker load of water soon.

One last thing. Are the uni joints on CMPs the same as civilian used, or are they different?

Thankyou,

[Grant Bowker]

The U-joints are still a standard Spicer joint. I will post the number I used later.
The straps used over the joint caps are also an off the shelf product.

The U-joint crosses I used on my C15A are Spicer 5-178X and the U shaped bolts used to attach at the transfer case to transmission shaft were Quality Gear 3-94-18x.
Based on info in http://www2.dana.com/pdf/DSAG-0200.pdf it is confirmed these parts are often used together and that 3-94-18x is not only a number from Quality Gear but also a Dana/Spicer number. There's more than enough info in the linked document but the link between 5-178X and 3-94-18x (and 1350 series joints) is on page 26.

Mine were bought at the local heavy truck parts and service shop, my F-350 is about the lightest thing they work on.
One online source is at: http://www.northerndrivetrain.com/pr...PI-5-178X.html and http://www.northerndrivetrain.com/pr...-3-94-18X.html
These parts are also available fron Jegs online (for more $) and almost certainly other sources

[Bob Carriere]

...... you might want to bring one semi U joint if they need to measure the cups and crosses.

When I dropped the CMP front shaft on his table at the truck shop in Ottawa he looked at them and quoted the part number from memory.... and how many do you need,,,,,, 6 please,,,,, want them put in flat fee $10. each....

U joints are spicer at about $22.00 each

Some days you fget lucky.

Bob C

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Bob

You hit one very important point in find the universal and U bolts When "I dropped the CMP front shaft on his table at the truck shop" the important words TRUCK SHOP.

First time I tried to find universal joints years ago stopped at the largest and one of the oldest parts stores in New Hampshire guy on the counter could not find them by size or application, no surprise it is a CMP. As I was about to walk out of the store I noticed that the far end of the counter had a sign over it saying HEAVY TRUCKS.

You can guess the rest, put the universal joint on the counter the guy asks how many you walks back and takes them off the shelf.

Cheers Phil

[Jacques Reed]

Hi Tony,

According to my very old invoice the small U-joints-are Hardy Spicer 5-178X. 3-5/8” across x 1-3/16” dia cups for my single speed xfer case but they are probably the same for the two speed case.

Note: They may require slight grinding of yokes at inside edge of cup holes to a small angle to allow crosses to fit through due to heavier construction of these crosses than originals. I noticed this had even been done to very old U-joints so it was a practice done for a long time. Some yokes even appeared "Factory" while others appeared in-field mods.

Will look for large U-joint Part No. but Large U-joints- 4-3/16” across x 1-3/16” dia cups were likewise best matched by placing on counter of someone who knows trucks as previously mentioned. I was told Bedford and many other trucks used the same u-joints.

Cheers,

[Jacques Reed]

Hi Again Tony,

Found the other Hardy Spicer invoice for the larger U-joints. Listed as K5-GB10R 1410 series.

Have attached photo of the small ground area at edge of yoke required for clearance to get the heavier than original crosses to fit through the yoke.

Hope this is of some help.

Cheers,

[Private_collector]

Cheers folks, that all help greatly.

If my local shop cant get them, I will be very surprised!

[Private_collector]

Can anyone enlighten me as to which vehicle/s this 5 ton screw jack was meant for?

I found it in a Retro & Vintage goods shop.
The screw part moves quite freely and smooth. Still lots of grease inside there.
Wasn't sure if I should buy it or not.

[lynx42]

Tony,

That is not a vehicle jack. It is what is known colloquially as a bottle jack and is used for lifting heavy items. At the slipyard where I worked for 25 years we would jack up 100 ton trawlers using multiple jacks just like that one. Having said that, they are extremely useful around the workshop. But!! they do tend to slip if placed metal to metal. Always put some wood between the jack and the metal your jacking.

Regards Rick.

[Private_collector]

Cheers Rick,

I decided to buy it. Just got home now and tried the great heavy thing under one of the CMP axles. Quite a fortunate find. Best 45 quid I spent in a while! There is about 1.5" clearance from top of jack to axle, with the shaft fully down. The curve of the jack top fits very nicely into the axle tube curve.

This is going "straight to the pool room", or at least into the truck toolbox when it gets put on.

I picked up majority of the ordered bearings, cups, and seals, from Gympie Bearing Service this morning. Only waiting on one more seal now, which should be in by Tuesday. Had trouble getting correct size gasket paper. The thinner sizes are not kept in stock. There is one place that isn't open on Saturdays, and that is the one most likely to have them. If not, they can definately order in for me through the week. I got the last lot of new bolts this morning. Didn't want to use some (now all) of the weathered old ones.

I should get the transfer case parts painted tomorrow, provided I feel well enough. They can have the week to 'cook' in the workshop then. Reassembly can wait until I have every part to hand.

[motto]

The bottle jack may be handy in a workshop situation Tony but if it only has 1.5" clearance when fully lowered now you will not be able to put it under the axle if you have a flat tyre. You will also have trouble if you need to put a block under it in the field.

David

[Private_collector]

Thats true!

Guess it stays in the workshop

Well, at least it will help me adjust the brakes.

[Private_collector]

These are the only photos I can post for now. Home computer is playing up.
Did get some reassembly done. Not much, but a start. The additional gasket paper I need is 0.25mm thickness. Pretty much all gaskets on the case are this thickness.

[Private_collector]

Bought the first uni joint this morning. Cost a whole $20, and was an in stock item.

There were a couple of 'mods' required, but different to what you had to do, Jacques. The part number is identical though. Must have been a slight difference in the yoke that eliminated the need to grind it. I did have to do some grinding, but on the uni itself. First, two uni caps needed a little metal ground off, to sit between two lugs on the transfer case yoke end. Without doing this, the uni total length was 1/32" too long to sit properly. Easy fix! The other change is to grind a very small portion of the other two caps that sits a 'bees dick' further out at each end. Compare the two photos below, and it will make sense.


Ground off section to fit lugs.

Entire outside edge ground down to same profile as centre of the cap end. The circlips don't fit unless this is done. Another easy fix.

Perfect fit now. PROPER JOB!!!!

So far, total cost of parts, including the uni and an additional 2 seals today = $210. Price of refurbishing a shagged out old transfer case = 4 solid days labour. Cost of grinding a small groove in a finger, today = PRICELESS!!

[Jacques Reed]

Hi Tony,

They look good! A bit surprised about the places you had to grind to get a proper fit but then again parts even with same part numbers often have slight variations depending on manufacturers. Mine only required the yoke "surgery" to fit.

How's the gears in the xfer case by the way? No pitting of the teeth? Seventy year old gear oil seems to love to attack them just going by my diffs original crown and pinions with pits 1-2 mm deep in them.

Cheers

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Tony

Did You Assemble the Grease Fittings In Correct Alignment? I didn't even know there was a correct alignment until I had a retired British/US Army Sargent Major, take one look at mine and said they were wrong. He explained that all shafts should be assembled with all grease fitting facing in the same direction so that they could be greased more easily. Makes sense doesn't it.

Don was in the British Army before emigrating to the US and joining the US Army he then stayed on as civilian motor pool director until his retirement, he was quite the gentlemen to talk with about military vehicles.

The attached photo is from our club newsletter. As I noted in the newsletter out of 11 drive shafts I didn't have one correct. Over the years since then anytime I've had a shaft out I've tried to correct them.

Cheers Phil

PS Many of my yokes had been similarly ground and given the paint I suspect that many have always been that way.

[Private_collector]

Yeah Phil, the grease nipple was put on in the same direction the old one came off. There is a visually 'correct' way, that you can see would be easier to get at later.

[Private_collector]

Tomorrow is a very exciting day.
From 0900-1300hrs, my Son has his Defence Force Recruitment assessments.
Hope he gets offered his chosen position.

Go Bryce

[Phil Waterman]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Yeah Phil, the grease nipple was put on in the same direction the old one came off. There is a visually 'correct' way, that you can see would be easier to get at later.

Hi Tony

Wish I had thought of marking the old ones before taking them apart as it now stands I think I only have 6 more shafts to redo.

Keep up the great work. What are you using to blast small parts like drive shafts?

Cheers Phil

[Private_collector]

Phil,

Anything small, like the yoke ends etc..I have a medium size blasting cabinet that takes care of those. Bigger things, such as the driveshafts themselves, will go to the sandblasting company in town. If possible, I greatly prefer to do the blasting at home. That way I can.......er......how do I say this....strictly monitor quality control!

The two main halves of the transfer case have not been blasted at all. They were first scraped of gross soiling, then scoured with steel wool & petrol (gas, for you), then hit with the twisted wire cup on grinder, then scoured with turpentine and a scotchbrite pad, then I have a lay down, then any one or more of the above is done again if not yet spotless. Then, and only then, the 2 coats of etch primer that precede top coats. It was a cow of a job, now that I look back on it.

As you can probably tell, I am a tremendous fan of sandblasting. I'm never really pleased unless I see consistently colored bare metal. Dull grey is my favorite color. Even my hair is adapting so.

[Jacques Reed]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Had trouble getting correct size gasket paper. The thinner sizes are not kept in stock. There is one place that isn't open on Saturdays, and that is the one most likely to have them. If not, they can definately order in for me through the week.

A good source of thin gasket paper, believe it or not, is old navigational charts so if anyone knows a yachtie, fisherman, or merchant mariner it is worth an ask.

When I was at sea the ship's engineers were constantly raiding the chart room for old out of date charts to make gaskets for pumps, valves, you name it. Charts as a rule get replaced when new editions come out so sometimes the charts hadn't even been used depending on the ships run.

Apparently the New Zealand and British Admiralty were the used charts of choice due to their thicker paper compared to Australian charts. As the paper is designed to be drawn upon in pencil and erased a number of times it is quite tough. Also due to their size you get a good large sheet for big items.

My diff gaskets are ex British Admiralty charts and there is not one drop of leakage after many years.

Always worth thinking outside the square.

Cheers,

[Private_collector]

Cheers Jacques,

I don't have any maps handy, but did give consideration to using some of the letterbox jambing junk mail

Endeavour art union brochures could work. They are too glossy & thick for toot paper. It's academic now anyway, I ordered the correct gasket paper, early in the week.

Have just finalised purchase of personalised licence plates.

Early christmas present!

With time closing fast on the ANZAC centenary in 2015, I am requesting to reduce my working week to only 4 days, instead of the current 5 days/wk. In theory, that will double the amount of time available to work on the truck. As I said..............in theory. The reality may be vastly different.