Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

motto · #1 26-10-13, 13:10

The bottle jack may be handy in a workshop situation Tony but if it only has 1.5" clearance when fully lowered now you will not be able to put it under the axle if you have a flat tyre. You will also have trouble if you need to put a block under it in the field.

David

Private_collector · #2 26-10-13, 13:40

Thats true!

Guess it stays in the workshop

Well, at least it will help me adjust the brakes.

Private_collector · #3 27-10-13, 11:55

Unrestored 1.jpg Primed 1.jpg Painted 1 (2).jpg
These are the only photos I can post for now. Home computer is playing up.
Did get some reassembly done. Not much, but a start. The additional gasket paper I need is 0.25mm thickness. Pretty much all gaskets on the case are this thickness.
Bearings. Seals, Cups-2.jpg

Private_collector · #4 29-10-13, 11:55

Bought the first uni joint this morning. Cost a whole $20, and was an in stock item.
1383010973723.jpg 1383011119092.jpg
There were a couple of 'mods' required, but different to what you had to do, Jacques. The part number is identical though. Must have been a slight difference in the yoke that eliminated the need to grind it. I did have to do some grinding, but on the uni itself. First, two uni caps needed a little metal ground off, to sit between two lugs on the transfer case yoke end. Without doing this, the uni total length was 1/32" too long to sit properly. Easy fix! The other change is to grind a very small portion of the other two caps that sits a 'bees dick' further out at each end. Compare the two photos below, and it will make sense.

1383039897822.jpg
Ground off section to fit lugs.
20131029_194819.jpg
Entire outside edge ground down to same profile as centre of the cap end. The circlips don't fit unless this is done. Another easy fix.

Perfect fit now. PROPER JOB!!!!

So far, total cost of parts, including the uni and an additional 2 seals today = $210. Price of refurbishing a shagged out old transfer case = 4 solid days labour. Cost of grinding a small groove in a finger, today = PRICELESS!!

Jacques Reed · #5 29-10-13, 22:47

Hi Tony,

They look good! A bit surprised about the places you had to grind to get a proper fit but then again parts even with same part numbers often have slight variations depending on manufacturers. Mine only required the yoke "surgery" to fit.

How's the gears in the xfer case by the way? No pitting of the teeth? Seventy year old gear oil seems to love to attack them just going by my diffs original crown and pinions with pits 1-2 mm deep in them.

Cheers

Phil Waterman · #6 29-10-13, 23:28

Hi Tony

Did You Assemble the Grease Fittings In Correct Alignment? I didn't even know there was a correct alignment until I had a retired British/US Army Sargent Major, take one look at mine and said they were wrong. He explained that all shafts should be assembled with all grease fitting facing in the same direction so that they could be greased more easily. Makes sense doesn't it.

Don was in the British Army before emigrating to the US and joining the US Army he then stayed on as civilian motor pool director until his retirement, he was quite the gentlemen to talk with about military vehicles.

The attached photo is from our club newsletter. As I noted in the newsletter out of 11 drive shafts I didn't have one correct. Over the years since then anytime I've had a shaft out I've tried to correct them.

Cheers Phil

PS Many of my yokes had been similarly ground and given the paint I suspect that many have always been that way.

Private_collector · #7 30-10-13, 06:43

Yeah Phil, the grease nipple was put on in the same direction the old one came off. There is a visually 'correct' way, that you can see would be easier to get at later.