Richie's Mk1 Restoration - Page 14

RichardT10829 · #**391** 01-01-14, 22:21

Well I finished rebuilding the valve assemblies today and polished the valves, out of the bits that were returned to me, it appears I am two valves missing. I got some lying in a bucket of bits which Shaun gave me, but the guides are not great. Infact I am not 100% happy with most of the assemblies that I have built from my motor.

On a good news note I have sourced a valve seat cutter hurrah !

Can anyone tell me what the tollerence is on the guides for the flathead ?

Perhaps I am being picky, just my previous experience has been with forced induction stuff where everything needs to be perfect.

shaun · #**392** 01-01-14, 22:41

Well I don't know ! You give a guy some bits and all he does is moan !!! Ha ha ha. New guides are not to expensive Richie

RichardT10829 · #**393** 01-01-14, 22:47

Not moaning about your bits bro.... Moaning at the state of what is left of my engine you know how much of a tart I am when it comes to engines etc

Would love to know the tollerence though as it has sparked my interest

What I don't want is to build it and find it smokes like a bitch..

shaun · #**394** 01-01-14, 22:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by RichardT10829

Not moaning about your bits bro.... Moaning at the state of what is left of my engine you know how much of a tart I am when it comes to engines etc

Would love to know the tollerence though as it has sparked my interest

What I don't want is to build it and find it smokes like a bitch..

I know mate , just winding you up in pubic !! Just remember these are engines that in hue Manuel it does not give a head bolt torque setting just "tight".

shaun · #**395** 01-01-14, 23:00

I have a civiy car book on rebuilding the V8 , do you want me to post it up to you ?

That engine could be the airborne version as it's the light weight with all them bits missing !

RichardT10829 · #**396** 02-01-14, 10:41

Hahahahaha. Yes please matey. However if it's this one, I already have it (and it ain't up to much) I will have another double check....

Lynn Eades · #**397** 02-01-14, 11:59

The Brit carrier Chilwell 63/63 doesn't mention it, only that the std stem dia. is 0.310" It might pay to check postwar specs. I would suggest one piece guides (which would require a change of valves as well) I have read a
clearance somewhere, and it's not very much either. You will need to use a good sealant, or you will have water coming up your head studs. You probably know the drill anyhow. send me an email, and I'll forward you some blurb.

Andy Mitchell · #**398** 02-01-14, 15:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by RichardT10829

Not moaning about your bits bro.... Moaning at the state of what is left of my engine you know how much of a tart I am when it comes to engines etc

Would love to know the tollerence though as it has sparked my interest

What I don't want is to build it and find it smokes like a bitch..

Hiya,
Just pm you ref eingine stuff.

Andy

RichardT10829 · #**399** 02-01-14, 19:22

Cheers Andy + Lynn I have replied to you both via PM.

George McKenzie · #**400** 03-01-14, 18:10

My friend is building some Flat heads for carries here .would you like to contact him? He does a great job and will do a lot of up grade things to improve the motor .He has had a carrier for several years . I am making the hinges for the side plate ,are they the same as the one on the MK2?

shaun · #**401** 03-01-14, 21:12

Richie I have found the carb for you plus I have a very good camm as well you can use .

RichardT10829 · #**402** 04-01-14, 00:28

cheers matey. Nordian services appear to have folded :-( however I have found another supplier so parts have been ordered.

its all coming together slowly, will get a song out of her yet !

RichardT10829 · #**403** 05-01-14, 16:01

Bit more done yesterday, rear rifle rests riveted onto the hull, and the oil pump for the engine stripped, cleaned and rebuilt.

RichardT10829 · #**404** 29-01-14, 09:54

Well engine work continues at a slow pace, just waiting for bits and bobs to arrive...started cleaning the pistons which I hate doing !!!!

Bearings, gaskets, Johnston lifters, arp head studs, build lube, and paint all arrived yippee ! I have sent my dash and generator to www.bluebirdproject.com to have their wiring guru convert the generator to 12v and build the entire wiring loom and dash.

Those building flathead engines in the UK and don't want eyes ripped out of sockets, go to www.royalkustoms.co.uk very very helpful and reasonable on price too !!

The block needs the lifter castings drilled out to either 1/8 or 5/32 to give access for a small bar when adjusting the lifters.... Got access to a nice 90 deg air drill that should do the job

Block awaits it's teeth drilling ! Pistons just slotted in for a bit of fun

David Dunlop · #**405** 29-01-14, 17:10

Richard.

Not sure if this information is what you are looking for or not. I found it in my 1950 Chilton's Shop Manual, in the Ford 1938 to 1950 Tune Up and Service Data Section.

SERVICE CLEARANCE AND WEAR LIMIT TABLE

Valve Lifter to it's bore clearance when part is new: Slip Fit
- Wear Limit: 0.998"

Valve stem to guide clearance (inlet) when part is new: 0.010 - 0.012"

Valve stem to guide clearance (exhaust) when part is new: 0.014 - 0.016"

Valve Spring Tension when part is new: 36 - 40 lbs @ 2.125"
- Wear Limit: 30 - 34 lbs

Best regards,

David

Ben · #**406** 29-01-14, 20:46

Hi Richie

I was at Royal customs today picking up my engine. I've been dealing with Jim for a few months now, you're right very very helpful, a nice bloke and he knows his V8's inside and out.

We ran mine on the stand just before loading it in the van. The pain is worth it, they sound the tits when done.

Ben

RichardT10829 · #**407** 29-01-14, 21:58

I was on the phone to him today as there is an issue with my crank, may need to get another one as the journals on mine are seriously oval'd

David, the lifters are fine but when you use Johnson adjustable ones they recommend drilling a 5/32 hole in the cast work so when you adjust the lifter height you put a bar through the hole to stop the lifter spinning during adjustment. Thanks for the tolerance info for the valve stems :-)

RichardT10829 · #**408** 29-01-14, 22:30

Ben are you running a centre main strap ? Can you post up your engine spec and some pics ?

Ben · #**409** 29-01-14, 23:03

I'll post some pics tomorrow.

Ben

shaun · #**410** 30-01-14, 00:27

Do you need a crank Richie ?

RichardT10829 · #**411** 30-01-14, 09:07

Shaun, the machine shop is going to contact me today and give me my options...he needs to measure everything thoroughly before he commits to pass sentence.

Option A) buy greater undersized bearings bearings and grind the hell out of the crank which means I am stuck with bearings I cannot use and need to sell on.

Option B) buy another crank and grind to the bearing size I need......

I am guessing these will be my options. My crank is an early type without the flanges on the big ends. Royal kustoms have plenty in stock, but my experience with buying cranks even second hand......not cheap. If I go route B I will get RK to grind a crank I buy from them to suit the bearings I have.

Ben · #**412** 30-01-14, 09:11

It could be worse Rich. If it was earlier then the bearings would be white metel, not an easy option

Lynn Eades · #**413** 30-01-14, 11:53

Rich, why do you ask about a center strap?
What makes you think it is necessary to have one in a carrier motor?

RichardT10829 · #**414** 30-01-14, 13:18

Because from building other engines..... My experience with engines designed with three mains are a crap design, especially on a long crank such as the V8, if you rev the engine, which in a carrier (rightly or wrongly) people do, the crank will flex..... When it flexes it blows out main bearings and rod bearings.... Also it creates a failure point on the centre main journal and you get situations where the crank snaps inline with the centre main.

For what a centre strap costs, I am pondering with the question if it's worth doing ? belt and braces and all that. I was just curious to see if Ben had it done to his (being built by a pro)

Ben · #**415** 30-01-14, 13:53

No centre strap as far as I'm aware. I'd have thought it was more of an issue on the bigger engines with a blower. Mines only little 65hp.

ARP head studs as it makes getting the studs in easier, alternator in the housing for the generator. 12v not 6v. Similar with the starter motor, new motor in the old clothes. Adjustable valve train to make life easier in the future. I've (Jim) tried to keep it as externally stock as possible but with a few mods inside to make it a little easier to live with. I've got the correct Solex carb which we ran yesterday, the jury is out to see if it stays on or a later spec American ones goes on. Stock to start with.

RichardT10829 · #**416** 30-01-14, 14:04

Nice, electronic ignition ? Or points ?

Lynn Eades · #**417** 30-01-14, 14:32

Richard, I would understand if you were trying to wind 5 or 6000 rpm out of it, but its not a 1198 or 1340cc anglia. It is a flat head ford v8 which does not have a reputation for failing in the center main, certainly not in a near standard engine (and I doubt that you will ever rev it as high as 4000 rpm. It can't breath well enough)
If you were keen to line bore it, you could use the meatier cap from a 49 to 52 v8, but I guess a tart would stretch further for three steel caps.

Michael R. · #**418** 30-01-14, 14:50

You would not be reving the snot out of it if you had the properly adjusted correct governed carburetor in place.

Ben · #**419** 30-01-14, 14:58

Electric but hidden in a crab case.

Ross, I think Rich is talking about when he's waiting at the lights sat next to a heavily modified Ford Focus, the poor Focus driver unaware of Rich's blower hidden behind the side armour

Rich if your worried speak to Jim, I'd keep it simple......

Ben

RichardT10829 · #**420** 30-01-14, 16:24

Yeah will do... It's a straight bolt on item no machining needed.... Like I say it was just a thought........ The blower on mine may require the strap though...