Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

Was just trawling through internet looking for a new 6v starter motor, and saw several 'Hi-Torque' 12v units of great attraction. Now, i'm not electrically minded, so the following question may come across as daft, but I need to know.

I plan on hiding the battery inside the took kit, so I can get away with using modern equipment. Would like to retain a 6v system overall, and don't wish to be adding voltage regulators to achieve that from a 12v battery. Besides, alternator I have is 6v. I would REALLY like to use one of the compact high torque starters, if possible.

Is it possible to have 2x 6 volt batteries, and run one circuit from them in series, and another seperate circuit in parallel??? That way I can utilise 6v for everything except cranking, and 12v for that task. Alternator should be able to return charge to both batteries in parallel, and crank from series, IF its possible to wire that way.

Can this be done.........or will I just burn the truck to the waterline?

[hrpearce]

There are trucks that run on 12v with 24v starters so the duel voltage can be done. I am not shore how the connections work or how complicated it would be.

[Private_collector]

Robert,

Your info is encouraging.

Might see if I can get to talk with a local auto elec tomorrow. Being Saturday, might have to wait until Monday.

Thanks,

[Private_collector]

Almost slipped my mind to mention that after a process which has spanned more than 4 months, my Son has received confirmation that he has been accepted into the Army to train and qualify as a mechanical engineer. There is still a set of physical exercises to be done and some more paperwork to seal the deal. With basic training being done at Kapooka, N.S.W, and winter coming along fast, I don't fancy I would swap places with him, thats for sure.

I didn't do any good with the 2015, Gallipoli attendence ballot. That's a shame. Would be the event of a lifetime.

[Grant Bowker]

Here's a link to one supplier
http://www.texasindustrialelectric.c...lel_switch.asp
One comment - in order to pass the same energy, a lower voltage circuit needs higher current which in turn needs larger cross-section wiring and contact parts. In other words a 12-24 series parallel switch may have problems working in a 6-12 volt application. As well, the solenoid in the switch may not work as well as it should.

More links that may interest
http://www.qualityengineeredcomponents.com/?page_id=564
http://www.antiqueautobattery.com/accessories.html
http://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/...&Number=710615

[hrpearce]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

With basic training being done at Kapooka, N.S.W, and winter coming along fast, I don't fancy I would swap places with him, thats for sure.

Don't worry winters are mild at Kapooka, it shouldn't get below -2c.

[motto (RIP)]

The Diamond T 4 ton 6x6 trucks (such as the wrecker) were 6 volt system/12 volt start and used a large series/parallel switch mounted through the floor under the drivers feet. They had two 6 volt batteries in the system.
The switch was quite large as befits the amount of power it handled to turn over the 529 cubic inch engine.
Somebody may have one kicking about.

Condolences on your loss of family members. It is quite a tragedy to lose people you respect and like and they take all their knowledge and wisdom with them.

David

[Shane]

Hi Tony

Mate when i went through Kapooka you didnt have time to get cold or for that matter feel bugger all(its all go go go). Started with 50 lads marched out with 23, the company above us started with 50 and marched out with 13. Ive been told its not as hard these days and hope your lad all the best you must be very proud.

[motto (RIP)]

Tony, if you are still interested in a 6/12 volt system, Steve Greenburg has a used Diamond T series/parallel switch for sale at a reasonable price on the G503 forum. It's in the 'Other M.V.s U.S.' section under the 'Trucks 2-1/2 ton +' heading.
No need for a response.
Cheers
David

[Private_collector]

Thanks David. A duel system would be a great advantage, because I could then use a modern high torque starter, and GPS to verify speed. Not that I expect to be ticketed for speeding.

[Private_collector]

dsc_0242-resized-960.jpg dsc_0240-resized-960.jpg
The long awaited muffler has now arrived. I am quite happy with the final product, and both inlet and outlet fit their respective pipes without problem. At a landed cost of $170.00 AUD, it is comparable to modern 'off the shelf' mufflers which although cylindrical, are not ot a patch on the appearance of the custom made version. Personally, I think it's money well spent. While still cashed up, after yearly tax return, I also purchased a pipe bender capable of bending exhaust tubing of both sizes required. I anticipate working the exhaust piping myself. Managed to stumble across a job-lot of vintage Ford exhaust brackets and clamps about a week ago. Should be sufficient suitable pieces in that bunch to do the whole job.......unless I have overlooked something, which is quite possible.
dsc_0244-resized-960.jpg dsc_0245-resized-960.jpg dsc_0247-resized-960.jpg
Here's something you wouldn't know about yet. The new connecting rods that I bought over a year ago, turned out to be unsuitable. I had been told they were 2" crank pin size, and had requested confirmation from the supplier that this was the case, before money was sent. However, when I went to install them (after attaching pistons, mind you) I very promptly discovered they were in fact the larger crank pin size, and therefore were not of any use to me. I have now acquired the replacement set you see above. They are a Scat product, are definately the right crank pin size, and the machining quality is unbelievable. Call it serendipity, these are far stronget than the French military set which they replace. The set is balanced to within 1gram over the whole batch, and have ARP bolts that are apparently superior to all other fastening systems.......so they say! Intended for use in engines up to 700hp, and compatable with supercharge induction, i'm sure they will withstand the puny horsepower of my plant. It cracks me up to think that at some point in the future, another owner will disassemble the engine to recondition or rebuild, and come face to face with these rods. No doubt they will be struggling to understand exactly WHY these girders are in such a modest engine. Not sure I understand why either, suffice to say that I didn't want to run a risk with second hand or NOS rods of questionable parentage!

If anyone is wanting a set of brand new French made con rods for the LARGER crank pin size, let me know.

Engine building is easy eh? Bah!

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Tony

Your Good Cautionary Tail on the connecting rods is a very good one for any of us collecting or ordering parts for a project. Double check the dimensions of the parts and then check them again once you have the parts in hand. That's going in our club news letter as a Tech Tip.

I'm sure there are many of us who have parts sitting on the shelf that we bought and then when it was to late to return discovered that they were not correct. I've got set of gas tank, brackets, box of NOS valves that I don't know what they fit and few other odd bits sitting on the shelf.

As to ending up with rods that are rated for 700HP, those would go good with the 1000HP axle shafts I had made for my HUP. Only place I could find who could make the axle shafts was and race parts outfit.

Cheers Phil

[Private_collector]

I neglected to mention in my previous post, that the whiz-bang connecting rods do not use the standard Ford big end bearings which would normally be the required part. Instead, they need part no. CB-610P bearings, which are a type used on Buick vehicles (and many others). They are not expensive, but are not an item I have laying around the shed on the off chance that I may one day require a set.

I am yet to receive mine, so things are on hold.....again.

And so it continues.

[Private_collector]

Two Days To Go




You'll work it out!