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#1
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Jordan,
Good to see your back at it. Working space and a roof above the project is definately positive for this hobby Alex
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Chevrolet C8 cab 11 FFW BSA Folding Bicycle |
#2
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More disassembly. Pulled off the cab frame work. I also bought a mig welder last week and have begun to try it out. Currently Im just using the fluxcore wire that it came with. I did some welding up of some rust holes in the pedal plate and added the reinforcing strip along the back of it. Now I can't wait to weld more things.
__________________
Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#3
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Personally I use the mig with the gas myself. I think it's a cleaner weld. But the welders I worked with in Kandahar told me they actually prefer to use both at the same time: flux with the inert gas.
One thing to watch out for is the polarity of the gun. If you change to inert gas, or go back to flux wire, you have to reverse the polarity just inside the welder where the cable attaches. Otherwise you will pull your hair out trying to get decent welds. Please don't ask me how I know this but suffice to say it's a lesson I have learned twice. |
#4
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Hi Jordan
Once you have tried gas you may never go back. It makes you a better welder.... at least the welds will look better.....cleaner...less grinding. Also try the "non stick" spray when you are welding a piece that will remain visible..... it keeps the little balls of slags from sticking to your work and speeds up the cleaning job. Remember to start on a clean piec of steel... or clean it with a flap wheel....MIG is not good at welding on rusted metal. The more you weld the better you will get. For tight precision work.... use an automatic shading head piece. I also use a couple of 500 watts lights on a tripod to illuminate the work so it can be seen clearly for the start of your weld. To keep the ceiling lights from reflecting off the inside of your helmet I have pop rivetted a piece of leather about 12 in.x 12 to the upper baqck rim of the mask and it creates a shadow. That by itself allows me to start a clean bead or stiching exactly on the spot needed...... improves my delicate work tremendously. Nest try to simulate spot welding...real easy...... predrill the top piece....sandwich the two metal and weld inside the hole..... by playing with the heat setting and wire speed ( on practice pieces) you can almost eliminate any grinding. Just watch your hydro bill go up... Cheers
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#5
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Bob
It's only us old guys that can't see any more and need all the back lighting. Jordan is still a kiddy by comparison, he won't have that problem. Jordan Bob has sage advice on the auto darkening helmet. They are really great and might be a help with the new learning curve. Gord |
#6
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Thanks for all the tips/advice on the welding. Im just so happy that I can now do more of this stuff on my own without having to send it out.
Anyway got the engine pulled out along with more parts off of the frame. Im trying to get it down to a bare frame and other large components. The feed mill on the other side of town has offered to sandblast all the big stuff for me.
__________________
Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#7
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Frame all ready for sandblasting. Por15 paint ordered. Hopefully I will get the frame back this week and it will be painted.
Here are a couple of pictures of the frame being pulled out of the shop and then waiting on the driveway for pickup.
__________________
Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
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