Anyone able to help identify a carrier

[James Fritz]

Originally Posted by chris vickery

Another way to raise serial numbers might be to try dye penetrant.
You spray on the dye, let it dry and then spray on the developer.
It is meant for searching for cracks in metal, especially welds but I believe dye penetrant would also show up stampings as the metallurgy is different in the stamped area from the base metal; it was essentially stressed when it was stamped.
I have also heard of acid etching which "raises" the number as well. Google it and there is all kinds of info

Thanks Chris. I will google both to find out where I can acquire either.

[Michael R.]

James it is all good. Your enthusiasm will be rewarded when someone captures that silly grin on your face first time out and about in your carrier. Enjoy the journey. Take care driving down the 10th St. E. hill towards the armoury.

[James Fritz]

Originally Posted by Michael R.

James it is all good. Your enthusiasm will be rewarded when someone captures that silly grin on your face first time out and about in your carrier. Enjoy the journey. Take care driving down the 10th St. E. hill towards the armoury.

The City added traffic lights 2/3 up the hill to make it more interesting during the winter. My grin would look upside down if my carrier brakes failed on that hill.

This afternoon I got to spend 1/2 hour between rain showers visiting my carrier. I am almost 100% positive my carrier's hull number is 13862 C. But I didn't find/see the engine number on the right intake manifold (right side looking forward while standing at back of carrier).

Question - How to best try turning the engine by hand as all belts are missing?

I can shove the clutch in but can't shift into neutral from reverse. Next weekend I will visit the carrier for a longer time and I intend to jack it up and place boards under the tracks. The carrier is sitting on a slight rise facing upward. Once it is on boards I am going to use a screw jack anchored to truck to slowly take any rearward pressure off the gears. Hopefully then I will be able to shift it into neutral.

If that doesn't work I will prepare to remove the tracks unless someone has another suggestion to try.

[Lynn Eades]

James, take the lid off of the gearbox. the selector shafts (3 in lid)may have rusted due to condensation. make sure the forks are correctly engaged. Try shifting each gear to neutral with the lid off.
The ball on the bottom of the gear lever may also be seized. This may break if you force it.
Removing the lid will help to isolate the problem. I don't think it will be jammed, due to the rotational load, as the motor would have rotated to a "neutral" position.

[Michael R.]

Tell us what your goal is.

[James Fritz]

Originally Posted by Michael R.

Tell us what your goal is.

My ultimate goal is to restore the carrier as much as possible. I am involved in other activities which command a lot of my time and I realize the restoration will run over many years but I find it fun to work on. Finding replacement parts for it will be a challenge but maybe over time I will find them.

My immediate goal is to move the carrier to my place before this summer is out and the rains set in so I can work on it during my free time.

[James Fritz]

Originally Posted by Lynn Eades

James, take the lid off of the gearbox. the selector shafts (3 in lid)may have rusted due to condensation. make sure the forks are correctly engaged. Try shifting each gear to neutral with the lid off.
The ball on the bottom of the gear lever may also be seized. This may break if you force it.
Removing the lid will help to isolate the problem. I don't think it will be jammed, due to the rotational load, as the motor would have rotated to a "neutral" position.

Thanks Lynn for your advice I will try removing the lid in the field to see what is jamming and if I succeed I will also get a feel for what the internal condition is like.

When I was there yesterday I sprayed most of the nuts and connections with liquid wrench. I try to do that each time I visit.