How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[Bob Carriere]

Things to remember. POR is not a paint but a coating. It is basically crazy glue with a pigment. It chemically bonds to whatever it is coating BUT if you can provide a mechanical bond that it is really tough. You can paint POR on a sanded section of sheet metal and bend the sheet metal and the coating will not peel. It will loosen its bond of heat is applied....therefore nto good for engine blocks.

On properly degreased cast axles,
T-case, tranny cases that have been sandblasted the outcome is almost like a ceramic finish.

I had rear axles on axles stands....3 feet tall..... the U shape strap the held the axles in place rubbed off the 3 coats of OD paint and the baby blue Tie coat but did not scratch the POR coating on the axle tubes.

POR cures with humidity in the air.... it starts curing the moment you open the can.... that is why they advise never to paint directly from the can as it will continue to get thicker and spoil very fast even after you seal it.

Eastwood now sells a similar "encapsulator" coating which is solvent based and hardens by evaporation of the solvent.... less toxic than POR fumes whcih can harden in the humid linings of your lungs. I have yet to try it.

The two part epozy primers/paint are also very resistant btu have nto palyed with them yet.

No paint will stick to properly cured POR UNLESS you use a self hetch primer
( which of course POR will sell you) and the tried and true TIE Coat which is a sky blue sandable, thick, self leveling primer polyuethane based.

On new steel...sheet metal.... which has been repaired sanded and polished smooth a light pass with a small sandblaster will take care of the adhesion problems.

IMHO.