How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[Jordan Baker]

Bob, the plates are 12" x 3" x 1/2". See the first two pictures.

The paint is from McDonald White in Windsor.

I test fitted the drivers side steps and battery tray. Is there supposed to be so much room between the rear of the tray and the frame?

[Jordan Baker]

Couple more progress shots. All the welding has been finished on the cab frame. Its been painted in Por15 and the primer and its final coat of SCC2. I have also started putting on various small brackets again.

[Bob Carriere]

On the battery tray ....... When I reproduced my battery box I opted for installing it lenght wise. First we used an original battery tray as a guide, then designed a battery box that would accommodate a size "35" modern 12 V. battery....but it would only fit lenght wise or 90 degrees to your tray. It allows a closer installation to the frame.

There is archival evidence of mounting the battery box sideways.

I had no choice on my cab 11.... the original in cab battery box soace has been take by the 2 speed T case shifter.

Cheers

[Jordan Baker]

Bob, yeah I saw there was the other type of tray. I went with the one I have as that's the info I was able to find for making one. Plus I was able to use an original cover.

I ended up making the hold down rods myself. Welded the rod onto a plate then ground it down to make it look like it had been forged. The ran a die to thread the ends. The picture with the tray shows the rods attached via screws. I went back and riveted them on properly.

The last picture is the new wood stiffener I had made to replace my slightly eaten original. I painted two coats of Por15 on sanding in between. It gave a rock hard finish that will hopefully keep the bugs and moisture out of it for many years to come.

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Jordan

We made our rods using long premade hooks from TSC..... straighten them out, flattened one end and cut to size. Grant rivited his rods and I used small bolts/nuts.

On the wood..... POR really soaks into the wood, with two coats it is almost plastisied and should last a long time...maybe even another 70 years. The trick is to make sure the POR is well into each bolt hole.

For the screw caps Grant is getting them reproduced from originals by his father...retired eng. from NRC using a mini lathe.

Cheers

[Jordan Baker]

Some more progress being made. My two windshield frames have been finished. The passenger side one was made up from a couple frames and welded together. I had to due to rusting away of the frame. I have also rebuilt the Trico vacuum motors. Next step is to disassemble the frames again and paint with Por15 and finish coat them. Then off to Speed Auto glass to have some proper glass cut for them. Lastly I have NOS Trico wiper blades and arms to use.

[Jordan Baker]

Saturday I went to my first auction and walked away with what I believe is an original wartime CMP Chevy 216 that is in very good condition for the hefty sum of $152. I did find KG#3 paint on the transmission and rear mounts. It also appears to have the Cab 11/12 starter rod pivots. There was also the gas pedal linkage that goes under the thermostat housing. So far I have been unable to match the block casting # and stamped serial # prefix to any other lists. However I do believe that the serial prefix "MR" stands for "Military Right Hand" To me it makes sense.

Pictures are
#1 overall engine
#2 block casting # 839253 D27 or O27
#3 stamped serial # MN3966765
#4 head casting # GM 838772 21
#5 generator tag.