LP2 VR 2225 Build

[Peter Walsh]

Dale,
The metgas was 1179 and the SAR is 2554. There were differences between the different manufacturers which is quite noticeable especially when you look at things like the welding and some of the fittings or mountings used. In the "Workshop Repair and Maintenance" manual in the electrical section there is even a note on the wiring diagrams warning that it does not apply "to many of the carriers built by the South Australian Railways" and refers to a supplement which I haven't seen. (Does anyone out there possibly have a copy?).

In the "Carrier M.G. Instruction Book" electrical section it mentions that approximately the first 2,700 carriers produced were wired differently because of different generator set-ups used. Then goes on to say "with the universal conduit lay out now used............" and explains differences with the later production carriers.

Also, does your carrier have a 6 volt battery or like some carrier owners have done, have a 12 volt system. All up, there is quite a bit of variation there. When I get around to doing mine I will probably go for a 12 volt system and as long as everything works, is safe, everything is securely out of the way and it looks tidy I will be happy. (Apologies to the purists).
Pete

[Dale Jordan]

Taken a while ! well it's just over a year since I started and I finely have the inside of engine compartment painted today , very fiddly job lots of hard to get at places , next conduit then I can fit her out .. Dale

[Dale Jordan]

Here's a brain teaser , Top photo is of friends carrier . Next photo is of my linkages with the holes and uni joint lined up the same as above photo , but the head at gear box end is at the wrong angle , if this is not at the correct angle gear changing won't work ? need help ... Dale

[Lynn Eades]

Dale, It looks like the holes in the uni joint are drilled differently
Maybe drilling two new holes in the rear tube part fixes it.
In the riveted carriers they faffed around with the bolt layout as well.
My guess you have early and late parts mixed. (I don't really know)
I recall they did change, but don't know the details.

[Euan McDonald]

Dale,
Lynn, is correct again, I also had the same issue and found another joint with the correct drilling to correct mine.

[Dale Jordan]

Excellent . Thanks Lynn and Euan . So the best thing to do for me is to drill two new holes in the rear tube part just need to know the correct orientation between the gear stick up front and the gear speed control aft are they in line with each other ? or when controller is hard up against the engine rail aft is the gear shifter up front facing towards the drivers seat as if in 1st or second gear . A photo would be great if some one has their linkage out on the shed floor .. or do I just rotate it 90 % from the old holes and hope the ones in the tube are correct which they should be ? Dale

[Andrew Rowe]

Just out of interest, I have not checked my ones, so am taking this off the top of my head, but is there a right way round for this UV, can you be 180 degrees out. Have they manufactured this so you can not get it wrong!

[Lynn Eades]

Dale, you are lucky in that you have no gear lever gate, so you can (within reason) have the front /rear orientation where you want it.
(just plot where the holes go along the tube (measure from the end), and drill new holes, at 90 degrees to the old ones) Use a V block to drill the holes, or drill one hole for each bolt, put the U.J. part into the tube, and use the U.J. part as a drilling guide.

Does anyone have one of those parts books (with the missing page 13) that can check if there are more than one option for the various parts.