Restoration of Hull 731- Carrier, MG (Aust) Mortar Carrying

[Darrin Wright]

Well after reading Mike's info and doing some research, I have found 2 variations on the NT Force Buffalo marking.
One source states that the signed and official formation marking has the animal facing to the right (as you look at it) over the boomerang.
Another source show"s the animal facing to the left as you look at it.

So which way should it face?

Soon I will take the correct image to the sign place and have a stencil made for spray painting.

[jack neville]

One for attack and one for retreat perhaps!!

[Ian Mastin]

It's the bottom one for me! Darrin.



Ian

[Darrin Wright]

Thanks Ian, I have a AWM pic that displays the Buffalo facing to the left.

Last night I installed the remaining 2 rear stowage boxes on the rear shelf.

Over the last week I have studied the reference pics when recovered (prior to restoration) and the official painting guides. What I have discovered is that no guide was followed. They just did their own thing, sort of...

I have used masking tape to give me a rough outline of where the camouflage lines will run.
Tonight is sits with tape all over it.

have done some test samples of light stone and different percentages of UFB to dull it down. Getting there with the matching satin effect.

[Darrin Wright]

Over the last week I have slowly been brush painting the light stone onto the hull, following the original paint scheme where I can and utilising the camouflage guide from WW2 where the pattern had weathered away.

Bit daunting as to whether I was doing the right thing, when you restore a vehicle you try so hard to make sure you do the best job possible. I really put a lot of effort and time into the spray painting, and here I am using a brush to paint the light stone onto the hull of the vehicle.

Once I started painting, due to the light colour, there was no going back as it would have been a big job had I changed my mind to paint it over with green.

I am happy with the pattern and the colour. The light stone is within shades of the Paint Standards guide. It is a bit on the gloss side, but that will fade and dull down with use.

Engine cover is in with the lower panels in place.
What equipment & kit that I have collected over time is being fitted to the vehicle.

Getting close to a track adjustment and possibly a brake adjustment as the shoes are bedding in.
Not sure if I can get away with a quick adjustment on the top adjuster on the brake drums or if I will have to break track and adjust as per the manual.

[Darrin Wright]

After the information posted on MLU, my research and some reference pics and tracings of original numbers, I had a sign shop create the stencils for all the numbers and markings.

It took nearly all weekend to prep, apply, mask up, paint, un-mask & clean up, but I have just over half the markings on the vehicle.

[Darrin Wright]

I also visited the Army Museum at Bandiana and measured & traced their brackets and clips for the web straps that hold the water can and water bottles in place.

After that I started making the hooks & buckles. Will cut up a 37 pattern web strap and have it sewn together to form the correct strap. Will also hand sew in the other straps onto the loops welded onto the water bottle brackets and water can bracket at the rear.

Many years ago I purchased a few water bottle covers (possibly off MLU), these have now been fitted and sewn up on the water bottles that I have collected over the years. Will install into the hull when the straps are completed.

[Darrin Wright]

Hull stencils are just about finished, so when I get it out of the wksp I will get some pics to update you on.

[Tony Wheeler]

Nice job on the replica base plate Darrin. It got me thinking about digital printing and what role it may play in the future for jobs like this. Some of the newer techniques can produce metal objects, and they're already used for complex shapes like aircraft parts and orthopaedic implants because they're cheaper than conventional manufacturing processes. It's only a matter time before this technology becomes fully commercialized and affordable in automotive and general industry. For example, consider the potential of Selective Laser Melting for those hard to get WWII vehicle parts:

"Selective laser melting is an additive manufacturing process that uses 3D CAD data as a digital information source and energy in the form of a high-power laser beam to create three-dimensional metal parts by fusing fine metallic powders together. Most machines operate with a build chamber of 250 mm in X & Y and up to 350 mm Z (although larger machines up to 500 mm X,Y,Z and smaller machines do exist). The types of materials that can be processed include stainless steel, tool steel, cobalt chrome, titanium & aluminium."

[jack neville]

Fascinating prospects Tony. A little sad at the same time. Just as eBay and the Internet is slowly but surely impacting on the good old days of swap meets where sellers don't haggle as much, the reply "I can get more on eBay mate", a common answer, the future of just getting a new part 'printed' will deprive future restorers of the satisfaction of resurrecting basket cases. Then again there is comfort in knowing that everything will be possible and nothing should ever suffer for a lack of parts.

[Tony Wheeler]

I had much the same thoughts Jack. This kind of futuristic technology certainly takes all the romance out of restoration. I think for that reason it will remain a last resort for serious restorers. However it could pose issues for the restoration community in general. For example, what happens if it gets to the stage where you can "print" a whole BGC? Or a Sherman tank? Sounds laughable, but we've already seen guns "printed" so it's really just a question of scale. Perhaps the day will come when MV's need some kind of Certificate of Authenticity to participate in events, particularly commemorative events. I believe it's this kind of regulatory/compliance challenge which has thus far delayed widespread introduction of this technology.

[jack neville]

The only barrier so far is cost. And it's getting cheaper by the day. Tiger Tank anyone?

[Darrin Wright]

Our neighbour let us drive around on her 10 acre block/paddock, so after attending the local BBQ breakfast and flag raising, we drove down to the paddock (500m away).
With the size of the paddock and the laps that I completed, plus cutting back and forth; drove about 6km.
On 2 occasions, the engine stopped from fuel vaporising. Managed to restart the 1st time and continue driving. But the 2nd time I had to leave it for quite awhile and cool down. Spent the time in the neighbour's swimming pool. Not so bad.
Also managed to start finding all the gears, cannot get into 3rd and 4th around the driveway at home. But today I found them all!!!

[David Dunlop]

Great to see her out in her element, Darrin! Must have felt really good from your end!

David

[Darrin Wright]

Thanks David, it was good to get it out and run it without having to watch out for the house, carport/garage, dogs & garden beds.

The real challenge was driving on the road and keeping to the left (yes- in Australia we drive on the left) but not in the gutter. Luckily being the Australia Day public holiday there were no cars to share the road with.

I did try driving with the seat in the lowered position, but there was not much fun in that. Vision extremely limited and just an uncomfortable driving position. Much prefer the seat in the raised position.

Using my new laser temp gun, I had the following readings (curiosity factor):
wheel hubs 30-34deg C
brakes L 79deg C; R 70deg C
Engine (top of cylinder heads) 87deg C

Some of the suspension squeaks a little. Have since washed it so that may have fixed that.

Curious to know what others have done to stop their engines from causing the fuel to vaporise? modifications? heat insulation/wrapping?
This may warrant a thread in the carrier forum???

[jack neville]

Electric fuel pump Darrin. If you think a carrier gets hot try driving a Fordson WOT in summer. Roast feet and legs as well as vaporising but never a problem since I added the electric pump. Just used a slug type pump from Macs Autos.

[Mike Cecil]

I agree with Jack. On the F15, I put one in-line, using the holes in the battery step designed for an Autopulse pump, with a switch in the appropriate place in the dash. Only used it when needed, such as pre-start priming, re-start on a hot day or when the motor 'stuttered' on a hot day, usually labouring under load. Quick flick of the switch: problem solved.

The modern pump used the same mounting holes as the original Autopulse, but had a higher delivery pressure, so a pressure reducer/regulator had to be installed just before the carbie. It was a device with a dial for the required pressure. System worked very well.

Mike

[Darrin Wright]

I have a 3D printed data plate (collected last week) and have had it laser engraved with the details originally on my broken data plate.
Here are the pics of close up detail.

It is currently drying from a coat of green and will be ready to place on the BGC this weekend.

[Ryan]

Awesome Darrin. Was it expensive to 3d print it?

[Darrin Wright]

Ryan, there was some R&D set up fees that we had to pay, but the 3D printing is very affordable in this medium. It also helped that we had 5 plates printed.
The engraving cost more than the plate, but professionally done by laser.
Plates are $50 each plus postage, if interested.
Should put up a post in the For Sale section.

[Darrin Wright]

I always enjoy those before and after pics that people take to compare and look back on their progress.
On the weekend, with good weather, I placed the BGC in the same place that it sat when it arrived so that I could take a series of pics.