Restoration of Hull 731- Carrier, MG (Aust) Mortar Carrying

David Dunlop · #1 26-01-15, 18:56

Great to see her out in her element, Darrin! Must have felt really good from your end!

David

Darrin Wright · #2 27-01-15, 09:03

Thanks David, it was good to get it out and run it without having to watch out for the house, carport/garage, dogs & garden beds.

The real challenge was driving on the road and keeping to the left (yes- in Australia we drive on the left) but not in the gutter. Luckily being the Australia Day public holiday there were no cars to share the road with.

I did try driving with the seat in the lowered position, but there was not much fun in that. Vision extremely limited and just an uncomfortable driving position. Much prefer the seat in the raised position.

Using my new laser temp gun, I had the following readings (curiosity factor):
wheel hubs 30-34deg C
brakes L 79deg C; R 70deg C
Engine (top of cylinder heads) 87deg C

Some of the suspension squeaks a little. Have since washed it so that may have fixed that.

Curious to know what others have done to stop their engines from causing the fuel to vaporise? modifications? heat insulation/wrapping?
This may warrant a thread in the carrier forum???

jack neville · #3 27-01-15, 11:02

Electric fuel pump Darrin. If you think a carrier gets hot try driving a Fordson WOT in summer. Roast feet and legs as well as vaporising but never a problem since I added the electric pump. Just used a slug type pump from Macs Autos.

Mike Cecil · #4 27-01-15, 17:25

I agree with Jack. On the F15, I put one in-line, using the holes in the battery step designed for an Autopulse pump, with a switch in the appropriate place in the dash. Only used it when needed, such as pre-start priming, re-start on a hot day or when the motor 'stuttered' on a hot day, usually labouring under load. Quick flick of the switch: problem solved.

The modern pump used the same mounting holes as the original Autopulse, but had a higher delivery pressure, so a pressure reducer/regulator had to be installed just before the carbie. It was a device with a dial for the required pressure. System worked very well.

Mike

Andrew Rowe · #5 27-01-15, 18:38

Hi Darrin, I am not a great believer in an electric fuel pump on carriers. The reason being is they are so easy to flood and to bypass the needle valve and full your cylinders up with petrol. However your climate might force you to consider this option. We run rubber hose from the fuel valve to about opposite the gearbox where we install and inline filter and an outboard motor fuel squeezy and then rubber up to the fuel pump, then copper pipe to the carb, works all the time. Only use the squeezy when carrier has been sitting around to save battery. cheers, I like the paint job!

Darrin Wright · #6 29-01-15, 07:36

I will conduct some research into the different 'modifications' and make a decision from there.
Thank you for the input.

I have since taken the BGC out for another 5km drive (last night) and this time there was traffic on the road. The look on the other drivers faces was priceless.
Have had to adjust both track tensions up, about 2 clicks on the ratchet pawl, grease the suspension arms and general check over.

Starting to get some trust and reliability with it and learning how it handles. Which is good, as there are no BGC Drivers Courses to attend now days...

Lynn Eades · #7 29-01-15, 10:21

Re Andrews post, I would avoid the copper pipe. Henry used steel and it is still the better of the two, because of the heat transfer.
The problem is worse these days because of the high level of aromatics in the fuel. Ideally a pump that has a return system would be better because the fuel keeps moving and goes back to the tank before it gets too hot. (hopefully)