11 Set stuff

[Tim Bell]

Ron

You need to ensure they are imported under the correct UK Import Commodity code... that way you should only pay vat at most 5% and no duty.

Take a look here:

https://www.gov.uk/trade-tariff/sections

Make sure the sender clearly writes the code details on the outside of the package - ideally on the customs form.

You will still get Parcelfarce stiff you though for their "processing fee".

For WW2 vintage stuff, I use this one.
.
Section XXI - Works of art, collectors' pieces and antiques
97 - Works of art, collectors' pieces and antiques
05 - Collections and collectors' pieces of zoological, botanical, mineralogical, anatomical, historical, archaeological, palaeontological, ethnographic or numismatic interest
00 00 90 - Other

The commodity code for importing is 9705000090.

Importing from outside the EU is subject to a third country duty of 0.00 %.
Goods are subject to VAT reduced rate 5%.

Hope this helps in the future.

Tim

[Chris Suslowicz]

Originally Posted by cletrac

That AWM video about the 11 set doesn't show those rings.
I seem to remember reading that they were British items. I don't know if the Canadian aerials used them or not. My NOS guy ropes didn't include any.

It's possible that the rings were added later (if they found a problem with the pegs wearing through the cord), but I wouldn't bet on they. The WW2 34-ft mast kits I've seen had stays with rings fitted.

Your guy ropes are for the Canadian 20-ft mast and 34-ft aerial, both telescopic varieties, which have the stayplates permanently fitted to the mast/aerial.

Chris.

[Ron Pier]

Thanks for the heads up on customs Tim. It's not so much about the money, as the principal. I've received stuff from all round the world without any VAT or duty, then every now and then they sting you. Ron

[cletrac (RIP)]

In Canada, anything used is tax free. New stuff under about $200 doesn't even go through customs. It costs more than $10 to collect the $10.

[cletrac (RIP)]

I started doing some wiring. The schematic is oriented from a front view of the switchboard so I flipped it in Photoshop and now have one that I can place beside the work in progress and not have to remember to flip stuff to the other side!
That space at the bottom centre is where the capacitors have to mount. Now I have to mount the switches.
I've been thinking about the lettering and am going to see if I can find some water transfer decal material that I can print on with my laser printer. That sounds much simpler than engraving. The letters will have to be yellow or some colour other than white. While I'm on the printing bit I'll see if I can get some heavier white plastic to print the instructions on to rivet to the door.

[Mike K]

Would those boxes have been made using a pan brake folder ? Rather than flat pieces welded together ? Mike

[cletrac (RIP)]

They were likely folded out of one piece then welded at the corners. Making them like I did you could round off the bottom corners and never notice the difference.
I wonder what the information plate on the door was made of. It looks white but I'd guess aluminum colour. Would it have been aluminum?
I looked at the decal material and it looks OK. Laser toner isn't water soluble so you use a water transfer like on a model airplane. I can get the printing pretty well the same size as on the panel pictures.

[Ron Pier]

Originally Posted by Mike Kelly

Would those boxes have been made using a pan brake folder ? Rather than flat pieces welded together ? Mike

I abandoned my first attempt box as I'd decided to alter the size a bit. My local friendly fabrication shop folded the four sides and tig welded the corners for me. the finished size is now 12"W x 12 5/8"H x 4 1/4". I've ordered some 4mm black Tufnol off ebay for the panel. I'm hoping it will be suitable material.

Ron

[cletrac (RIP)]

I was digging in my junk and came up with this switch. Judging by the schematic, this looks like the same kind of switch as they originally used.
It's off some telephone equipment.

[kevin powles]

Gents, I recently got a 11 coupling unit, I needed the inner workings for my Canadain coupling box, so this outer box with lid, inner instruction plate and strap is available, nice condition.

[Tim Bell]

WS 11 Training film.

https://www.awm.gov.au/collection/F05265/

[cletrac (RIP)]

Here's the aerial unit C picture out of the manual and the instructions are black on a white background the same as the charging switchboard picture.
Next is the instructions on Kevin's spare Unit C box and they're silver (aluminum?) writing on a black background.
This makes me wonder if the switchboard would be like this also. Most instructions have the black background.

[Ron Pier]

Here is my coupling unit. Again with the etched ally instructions. Ron

[Chris Suslowicz]

Originally Posted by cletrac

Here's the aerial unit C picture out of the manual and the instructions are black on a white background the same as the charging switchboard picture.
Next is the instructions on Kevin's spare Unit C box and they're silver (aluminum?) writing on a black background.
This makes me wonder if the switchboard would be like this also. Most instructions have the black background.

Instruction plates will be engraved and sometimes plated brass or anodised aluminium.

The switchboards are black (or brown) plastic with engraved and white-filled lettering.

Chris.

[Mike K]

The British Aerial unit C box looks pretty much the same as the Aust. version. I do have a spare box here somewhere, I had it outside in the rain and it filled with water . I must find it and measure it .

The method of making the instruction plates does vary . I have seen printed sheets of paper covered with a clear plastic cover riveted over the paper . Etched brass is another method .

I have the complete C unit in front of me . The lid is 7.1" wide - 8.1" deep and 1 1/4" folded edge all around . The corners appear to be welded , then filed smooth

The box itself: 5.6" high 8.1" deep . The box sides are a single piece of steel folded into a square and joined with spot welds in the rear middle panel. The floor has turned up short sides and is spot welded to the main box sides .

The instruction sheet under the lid is a thin metal sheet with what looks like screen printing on it .

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by Ron Pier

Here is my coupling unit. Again with the etched ally instructions. Ron

Ron your unit appears to have a 19 set Pye connector socket ? Is that normal for these units ? Mike

[cletrac (RIP)]

The Aussie unit is quite a bit different from the others. The Brit box looks to be closer to square. The Aussie one has two dials instead of one so likely needs some more space inside.

[Ron Pier]

Originally Posted by Mike Kelly

Ron your unit appears to have a 19 set Pye connector socket ? Is that normal for these units ? Mike

Well I don't Know Mike. I think the box came from you as an empty unit and I acquired the internals a year or so ago off ebay. I seem to remember that you gave me the heads up about the auction. I have noted that the others shown here have a meter. Is mine wrong? Ron

[Chris Suslowicz]

Originally Posted by Ron Pier

Well I don't Know Mike. I think the box came from you as an empty unit and I acquired the internals a year or so ago off ebay. I seem to remember that you gave me the heads up about the auction. I have noted that the others shown here have a meter. Is mine wrong? Ron

The Pye connector is rather later than the WS11, and on your coupling unit appears to be fitted to a metal plate that blanks off the meter position.

Looking at the schematic in the WS11 handbook (Signal Training Vol.III Pam 19), the LP button operates a normally closed shunt to the 350 mA RF ammeter. Looking at it further, it appears to be Ammeter HF 350 mA No.1 which is a fairly common "plug-in" type, so there would have been a large bakelite socket behind where the Pye connector now sits. Also there appears to be a protective cover for the meter, secured by four screws (the socket has three), so if you have a look behind the Pye connector and that's the arrangement, I have a spare socket and can probably find you the correct meter. (The protective cover you'll have to make yourself, a block of wood and some perspex sheet ought to do it.)

Chris.

[Ron Pier]

Thanks for that Chris. In the morning I will take that plate off and see what is there and what you can help me with to get it correct.

Cheers Ron

[Ron Pier]

Chris, this is what I have. Ron

[Chris Suslowicz]

Originally Posted by Ron Pier

Chris, this is what I have. Ron

Ah, right. A little light begins to dawn. There is no socket assembly as such for the meter, there are two receptacles fitted to the vulcanite panel that accept the meter pins. If you look at Plate X in the handbook, you can see how the meter fits at bottom left.

Unfortunately a previous owner has gutted your aerial coupling unit and turned it into "just a variometer", because the shunt and most of the other parts are missing from that area.

I can find you a 1941 Ferranti HF ammeter, but I think you're going to have to make the socket parts.

Chris.

[Ron Pier]

OK Chris. Can you PM me with details of how I can obtain the ammeter. I'll take advice about the installation at a later date. Cheers Ron

[cletrac (RIP)]

Here's a golf bag aerial kit on UK ebay if anybody is looking for one.

[Mike K]

I spotted a Ebonite B base from the golf bag set at the recent hamfest . It was $10 and I didn't buy it as I already have two of them . The seller of that B base is a regular attendee at hamfests and I could possibly buy it for somebody .

[Tim Bell]

For the WS11 fans... two previously unpublished pictures from an album I have of Canadian Wireless operators training with the WS11 at Aldershot.





Hope these are of interest.

Tim

[Chris Suslowicz]

Originally Posted by Ron Pier

Well I'm not sure where I'm at!!! I've posted stuff to Canada and sent emails to Kent and not had a jot of response. It's definitely not the way I deal with people. But worse things have happened to me so I'm sure I'll survive it. Ron

Um, I've sent stuff to Canada and got a reply (recipient was a very happy bunny), and I've received (and replied to) your emails. Is your ISP on the blink?

[Ron Pier]

Apologies Chris if your not getting through for some reason. I've sent you emails on 7th, 9th and 15th April but nothing back??? Ron

[Chris Suslowicz]

Originally Posted by Ron Pier

Apologies Chris if your not getting through for some reason. I've sent you emails on 7th, 9th and 15th April but nothing back??? Ron

Check your spam filter? (Or complain to your ISP, as it looks like they're being silently dropped - I've had no bounce or rejection messages.


R Ron Pier 7/4/15, 06:52 +0100 4 11 Set
• Chris Suslowicz 7/4/15, 08:57 +0100 2 Re: 11 Set
* Ron Pier 9/4/15, 13:50 +0100 4 11 set
• Chris Suslowicz 9/4/15, 13:55 +0100 2 Re: 11 Set
• Ron Pier Wednesday, 05:37 +0100 4 11 set
* Chris Suslowicz Wednesday, 10:04 +0100 2 Re: 11 set

Chris.

[Ron Pier]

Well I'm back onto my switch panel after receiving my switch finger plates back from my local friendly engineer who milled them to size for me.
I borrowed Dave's idea of printing a paper version in negative.....which took some mucking around with my scanner to get to actual size. Then jig sawed the openings for the switches and a down light cutter for the gauges. I'm waiting for some brass BA screws and nuts to arrive before I can continue. But very pleased so far. I'm using a piece of black Bakelite for the panel. Ron