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#1
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They make needles to use with a grease gun for jobs like that.
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2 |
#2
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maybe this radiator can be made to fit the C8
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HOTROD-24...item3aa958923f the outlets need to be moved http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HOT-ROD-C...item418f973725 this one looks better
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1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad Last edited by Mike K; 29-05-15 at 03:47. |
#3
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I am almost sure it is the Pulley/balancer in front of the crankshaft, my C60S had the same problem(I think). The pulley is riveted together and there was some play on de rivets.
Greetings Hendrik
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Ford F15A Chevrolet C60S-brkd-5 (4) Carrier MK 1 Willys MB Austin K2 ATV Welbike MK I Volvo L475 |
#4
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I managed to disassemble the water pump.
These pumps are a pain to work on. A shop press is needed and it is very easy to damage the cast housing of the pump if too much pressure is applied ( been there , done that ) ,a fracture results , rendering the housing useless . In this case heat was applied to the impeller in order to release it from the bearing . It is most important to use a sleeve over the pump housing while pressing on the bearing shaft . I machined up a sleeve . A puller is needed top remove the fan hub , if the hub is really stuck, it can bend under the pressure from the puller .. Ive done this too ! The seal surface in the pump housing needs to be cleaned up , it has wear ridges and score marks . This is a single hole pump . Not sure if the later CMP's used the two hole type ?
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1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad Last edited by Mike K; 30-05-15 at 11:16. |
#5
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I spent a little time today facing the water pump seal . There must be lots of ways to do this type of job, I used what I had . Took about .010" off the face .
I plan on using a modern mechanical seal , instead of the 1940's era seal. The modern seals have a hard ceramic face, and they perform much better than the old seals .
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1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad Last edited by Mike K; 31-05-15 at 10:18. |
#6
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Never use wheel bearing grease in a water pump , the temperature is too hot , and it will melt out , and run dry . Use special water pump grease ,like what you have to put in a Dodge screw in lubricator
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#7
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![]() BTW I suggest that you do some research before splurting out incorrect information . Mike
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1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad Last edited by Mike K; 01-06-15 at 11:03. |
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