How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[chris vickery]

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

that is used in basketery...

Hmmm, from your basket making experience? You gov'ment types hihihi

[Jordan Baker]

Not much to report other then picked up a small item today. I have been gathering parts for a couple of the dome lamps that will be fitted in the rear of the truck. I was able to get an NOS one at the last show and Im now in the process of making one more that I needed. I had a grill already but it was missing the milky white glass lens. Luckily Mac's Antique Auto Parts sells this very same lens. I was also in need of the orignal heavy duty ark less push/pull switches. A search on Ebay found me two identical switches for $10 each. Im always amazed at what is still available or is currently being made for regular vintage civilian vehicles.

[Jordan Baker]

Two fuel tanks all wire wheeled. The one tank has the tank liner all poured in. Tomorrows plan is to acid wash the inside of the other tank and then pour the liner in. Once that is done the outsides will get the POR15 treatment.

[Jordan Baker]

Lots of work was accomplished over the past few days. The fuel tanks were both sprayed with POR15, then given a coat of tiecote primer and finally a coat of SCC2. Then installed on the frame. For the tank strap/pads I used the anti-sqeak material from Mac's. Hopefully these tanks will last a lifetime.

[Jordan Baker]

As I said I got a lot done. Took 3.5 hrs to make up the main fuel lines. These run from the tanks to the change over switch on the cab floor. I went with 5/16 cunifer brake line and did the double flare ends myself. I wanted to have 1 peice lines to minimize the joints. The coils of line were done to allow for the difference in the cab and frame bouncing. A small line was also made from the change over switch to the fuel filter. I think I will wait until the engine is back in before making the line from fuel filter to fuel pump. Partly due to the fact that im not too sure on the route for it to run and where and if I should have a piece of flexible hose inline.

I also made up new tank cap chains. I found some old brass sash chain that the previous home owner had used to hang a light in the shop. Soaked it in vineager overnight to clean it up. Lastly I needed to make up two lead washers to seal the bottom of screw head against the filler neck. So out came the butane torch and the solder and i made up two blobs on the anvil. Pounded them out flat, drilled a hole and then used a punch to cut out two washers. Results a nice perfect conforming washer to seal the hole.

Lastly I got my correct length 5/8" screws and finished off the side screens. They are made from all original parts except for the strapping, windows and fastners.

[Jordan Baker]

Next up will be repairing the fuel tank senders. Both appear to be good to use and just require cleaning. After this I will be doing the cab roof and rear wall sheet metal work. Then its jack the frame up and block it so I can then work on the brake system. Fun times are ahead.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Jordan

First, great work I'm enjoying see and reading your progress.

Now to your next step the fuel gauge sender units are they Cork or Brass Floats? Reason I ask is that I have recently had to replace the cork floats on my CMPs and M5 generator they all sank. Just can't count on cork only been sitting in gas for 70 years.

Went over to brass floats.

In part I think it is the changes in gasoline which is helping it saturate the cork.

Cheers Phil

[Alex van de Wetering]

Lovely work on the tanks Jordan! Just like Bob I was also very curious how you fixed the tanks; My tanks require more than a small patch panel, I'm afraid.....and I don't want to blow anything up.


keep up the good work, Alex