How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[Jordan Baker]

As I said I got a lot done. Took 3.5 hrs to make up the main fuel lines. These run from the tanks to the change over switch on the cab floor. I went with 5/16 cunifer brake line and did the double flare ends myself. I wanted to have 1 peice lines to minimize the joints. The coils of line were done to allow for the difference in the cab and frame bouncing. A small line was also made from the change over switch to the fuel filter. I think I will wait until the engine is back in before making the line from fuel filter to fuel pump. Partly due to the fact that im not too sure on the route for it to run and where and if I should have a piece of flexible hose inline.

I also made up new tank cap chains. I found some old brass sash chain that the previous home owner had used to hang a light in the shop. Soaked it in vineager overnight to clean it up. Lastly I needed to make up two lead washers to seal the bottom of screw head against the filler neck. So out came the butane torch and the solder and i made up two blobs on the anvil. Pounded them out flat, drilled a hole and then used a punch to cut out two washers. Results a nice perfect conforming washer to seal the hole.

Lastly I got my correct length 5/8" screws and finished off the side screens. They are made from all original parts except for the strapping, windows and fastners.

[Jordan Baker]

Next up will be repairing the fuel tank senders. Both appear to be good to use and just require cleaning. After this I will be doing the cab roof and rear wall sheet metal work. Then its jack the frame up and block it so I can then work on the brake system. Fun times are ahead.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Jordan

First, great work I'm enjoying see and reading your progress.

Now to your next step the fuel gauge sender units are they Cork or Brass Floats? Reason I ask is that I have recently had to replace the cork floats on my CMPs and M5 generator they all sank. Just can't count on cork only been sitting in gas for 70 years.

Went over to brass floats.

In part I think it is the changes in gasoline which is helping it saturate the cork.

Cheers Phil

[Jordan Baker]

One of the sender has a double cork float that appears to be sealed. The other sender has the wire curved looking like it would snap around a brass float, however there is no float. I was thinking of dipping the cork floats in the Mac's tank sealer to seal them against any fuel.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Jordan

As somebody mention, I think in a thread in the last year, that after sealing a cork float make sure it still floats. They had dried a cork float then coated it in gas tank sealer got the entire thing reassembled in the tank in the truck to discover that the sealed cork no longer was buoyant in gasoline.

This made me check float assemblies I rebuilt using brass floats before I put them in the tank.

Cheers Phil

[Bob Carriere]

I never use old corks on my fine wine bottles..... and I think the same applies to a 75 years old dried up cork....

I would be concerned that they are soooo dry they act as a sponge and suck way tooo much of the sealer....almost to the pointof overcoming their natural ability to float.

some of the corks we have removed were coming apart when rolled between your fingers.

Besides Jordan lives in the Ontario Wine country and should be able to get new cork easily..... and I don't mean by emptying the bottle in your glass.

Cheers (hic!!)

[Jordan Baker]

Good point Phill and Bobeeee. I didn't think of the fact they would soak up too much and be heavy. Brass it is. Im not a fan of rotten grapes (I mean wine) so that avenue wont help me much. lol