Restoration of Canadian Scout Car Ford Lynx I, Mk.III No.1726

[lynx42]

Thanks Peter, Hanno and Daryl for your thoughts. I am not looking forward to it but hopefully this op will be the last one.

Back to my story.

I continued to refit the restored parts onto the chassis. I had painted it but most of the parts I had pre-prepared were in some kind of primer.

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Front and rear axles and spring packs were refitted and as I said earlier, with new bushes in the springs, the shackle bolts being ok.

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New transfer case insulators were cut from neoprene and the transfer case re-fitted. Here the universal flange nut is not on. Why? Because I could not find it. It took me about 3 days off and on to locate where it had been carefully put away. Eventually it was found, thanks to the little lady, and bolted up tight.

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Next was the gear change tower and then the gear linkages.

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New welsh plugs were fitted to the front of the gear change tower to keep the dirt out and oil in. Here two still have to be fitted.

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This is the fulcrum refitted before the linkages were connected up. I do not know if I have the rods adjusted correctly but that can be done later.

The colour top coat was painted on to the primed parts mostly in place. I used a long handled paint brush where the spray gun couldn't reach.

Rick.

[lynx42]

The steering was all connected up, well not all, as the steering wheel, steering tube etc cannot be connected until the hull us bolted on.

The bearing adjustment of the front wheel bearings is the same as for a Ford or Chev Blitz it is a trial and error job. This adjustment involves the use of a 8" long spanner so that not too much torque is applied. The axle nut is tightened with this spanner and one corner of the nut is marked. The nut is then backed off 3/4 of one flat and the nut marked on the nut opposite the mark on the hub. The hub is then disassembled again and a thin shim fitted. The hub is then re-assembled and tightened up with that 8" spanner once again. If the mark on the axle is within 1/4" either way of the mark on the hub, then the bearings are set correctly. If it is not, you have to do it all again putting in thicker shims until it is correct. Good Luck.

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One thing that surprised me is that the steering tie rod between the two front wheels has a gentle curve. I thought that it needed straightening but no, that is how it was made. You would think that it would flex when a bump was hit. It is bent to curve past the front diff.

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The clutch master cylinder brackets were next and what a mongrel they were to fit. You need about 5 hands to locate the bolts and the master cylinder to the brackets which bolt to the cross member and the steel cross brace which helps keep the fuel tank armour in place.

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Andy Seymour at the Berwick Brake Place located the front and rear axle flexible brake pipes and here one is hanging out of the left front brake fitting.

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Here the chassis has been painted, the new tyres fitted and sitting on one of the most handy tools you can have in your shed.Go Jacks. With these I was able to move the chassis around all over the workshop when I needed to. No effort or lifting required. These ones have hydraulically lifts and are so simple to use.

There gear box is in place and linked to the gear change tower as well.

Rick.

[Ian Fawbert]

Hi Rick,

This continues to be a wonderful story! Not only am i learning so much about a Lynx, i am learning so much in general! Thanks for taking the time to post it up and i hope that your surgery and recovery goes well. I, like many before, eagerly wait seeing that new post has been made to this tread to see what happened next in the life of your Lynx!

Cheers and thanks!
Ian.

[lynx42]

Thanks Ian, It is good to know people are enjoying my restoration.

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Me with the spray gun onto the rear axle.

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When I paint, I always think of something one of my old teachers said to me back in 1964. She said, "A coat of paint hides a multitude of sins." She was in those days referring to the fairer sex as I was 16 and pretty keen on the girls.

It is very easy 2 years on to get things out of sequence.

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Here is Jill, my wife, my T/A, my nurse, my workshop cleaning lady, my tea lady, etc. etc. painting primer onto the rear springs. This restoration could not have progressed as it did if it was not for Jill.

Rick.

[lynx42]

After painting the chassis after everything was re-fitted the rear wheels were put on and the new brake lines to both the front and rear axles.

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The fuel pump and filter was refitted and plumbed up to where the 3 way tap will be situated.

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A very short steering column was fitted for a reason. You will see next post.

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It was time to move the chassis out of one part of my workshop and into another.

Regards Rick.

[lynx42]

Out in the sunshine for the first time on the 5th January 2014. just 34 weeks and 2 days from when we pushed it into the shed.

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If you look off to the far right top of this photo you will get a glimpse of some future projects. Cab11 F30S, Ford Marmon-Herrington Scout Car. Cab 12 F60L with Recouperater body, Ford M-H chassis and just hidden is my Saracen. (The one I drove in the late 1960's with the 4/19th Prince of Walse's Light Horse.)

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The steering wheel was to help with the moving.

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Stacks of new carrier track in the background. That is for my VicRail carrier No 2250 which lost out to the Lynx when Jill asked what I was taking to Corowa for the "Year of the Ford and WWI".

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Doesn't it look good. It looks fast in this photo.

Rick.

[lynx42]

Jill drove my 4 wheel drive and towed me up the drive. What a step forward that was.

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The steering felt good and there were no noises to worry about. The original tyres are still on the front axle here, but the new ones on the rear.

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Our Nissan Civilian bus motor home is up on the hoist for some routine maintenance. So I was not JUST working on the Lynx.

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My short 25pdr. in the carport. I have a long way to go with it but it is coming together slowly.
Can you see the smile?
Next the chassis was pushed back into the shed close to where the hull was sitting awaiting all it's bit.

This then allowed me more room to fit the brake pipes etc.

Rick.