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#1
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If I could post the pics I could show you how I did the drive-line. The original plan of using the second tranny was a bust when I did the math on the gearing ratio it worked out to a very slow machine. I used an engine and trans out of a 1996 Jeep Cherokee (4L inline 6cyl) and left the transfer case attached. This machine runs on the front wheel drive portion of the T case and has plenty of power and speed. I will likely do another one in the future but need to decide on a model of tank..... This one is on a T16 chassis so the steering was no issue as it is already tiller bars. The driving in reverse on the diff only worries me in that the steering brakes are "grabbing" in the wrong direction. Any thoughts on this are welcome.
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#2
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Jon-the brakes might be grabbing due to rust, oil contamination or lack of use. Or maybe you could use some new brake linings. I wouldn't worry about it. You can check them the next time you break the track for some reason.
John |
#3
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Ron |
#4
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__________________
Robert Pearce. |
#5
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Jon, can you switch the pads to opposite ends of the axle to rectify how they "grab" to ensure they have effective braking for the new "forward"? I have a T16 axle on my carrier, so maybe I'll have a look next time I break track and see if it can be done, if you haven't already considered it.
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#6
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The brakes I am referring to are the steering brakes inside the differential housing. I see no way to change them around without redesigning the mounts on the inside. They work OK but it is noticeable that they work better when I back up.
The normal drum brakes are just fine for stopping. I made pedals for the drum brakes instead of using the 4 tillers of the T16. I then joined the pedals together to give me straight stopping rather than run the risk of one turning me at a time when I need to stop. I made them separate in case I decide to try steering with them, don't see the need most of the time but if I broke a linkage pin....... might be the only way to get back to the barn for repairs. I am always planning for worst case scenarios.... ![]() |
#7
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To try to explain what I have done here are a few pics of the steering I made. Yes it is tight in there with that big engine. The drivers compartment is an even 24 inches from armour to fire wall.
The white stick running up the middle in the picture was for me to line up the drive shaft before I had it made. |
#8
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Why does the seat bottom in the second photo look suspiciously like a kitchen bread board ...?
Looks like you are having fun with the conversion without the restrictions of a true-to-the-drawings restoration.
__________________
Terry Warner - 74-????? M151A2 - 70-08876 M38A1 - 53-71233 M100CDN trailer Beware! The Green Disease walks among us! |
#9
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Oh, I understand - I was thinking of the "outer" brakes, not the "inners". I haven't ever taken mine apart myself - I'm a little hesitant too, as I haven't been able to find a resource on teardown and rebuild, but the diff is leaking so it is in the plans sometime.
I like what you did with the pedals - like an old tractor - I have been kicking around doing something similar myself. |
#10
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Hans-
An old tractor is exactly where I had seen it done before. Gave me the idea. So far it works well. Terry- It was actually from a cutting board I had on the back deck, it fit, so I had something to kneel or stand on. I thought one of you guys might comment on it. |
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